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Linn Hudson Bandsaw Clone Build

Started by William1961, September 20, 2017, 01:46:54 PM

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William1961

I thought I would start a post showing my build progress.
I am building a bandsaw sawmill based on pictures and videos that I have watched.
It will be a cross between a Hudson and a Linn Sawmill.
That is why I have not yet welded the cross braces between the 2 frame rails holding the pillow blocks.
The pillow blocks look big and that is because they are heavy duty blocks which I think were about $200 each.
Bandwheels are 18.75" with 1.5" 4140 steel shafts that cost $25 per foot.
I took the advice of another member here and upgraded my axle to 3500 pounds.
Bought a Evolution metal cutting saw which works awesome so far.
Have a hydraulic 4 ton ram and pump which I bought for about $100.
I will eventually go to a spring tension setup but I am sourcing the correct spring pound setting. Will be using 2 springs.
I also have added a 2 inch spacer (2x2 Tube) underneath the pillow blocks to give me an extra 2 inches of cutting depth.
Will be using a 167 inch blade (or bigger?)

When I make more progress I will post updates.
So no plans and never seen a Bandsaw mill up close.

So it will be interesting.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

William1961

Bought a 167" Blade to see how everything lines up.
Finally got my Goodyear B56 belts and installed them.
Put everything together and put some tension on the blade.
Alignment is off but it tracks.!! Amazing.
A engine stand came on sale today.
Will buy it and put what I have built on the engine stand as my little table is getting tired.

Question.
What is the average width on from carriage roller wheels.
As in width of rails on the saw framw which the carriage rides on.
Mine will work out to 36" between rails.
Just wondering if that is about average.

 



 



  

 

dgdrls

Looks like you're progressing well smiley_thumbsup

I'm always impressed with the fabrication skills
FF members share here

Thanks for sharing

D

Crusarius

your frame is very wide. I didn't notice if you have something to catch the slide part in case a band breaks.

With 167" band how much space you think you will have between the guides?

Good idea on the engine stand :)

William1961

Stole the idea about the stand from you. (Crusarius)
Good idea but the problem is I sold my stand some time ago.
Looking to buy a new one for short time.
The wider space between the wheel supports is for the support shafts which the saw will move up and down.
It will mount in between the 2 pieces of tubing beside the bandwheel.
It's from the Hudson style.
It may work or I will change it. Dunno
Between the wheel edges I have 35"
Should be able to saw a 36" log with 14" gap from the blade to the top support.
I want to use 1 1/4" dia rod using oil lite bushings as a guide/support to raise and lower the saw.
Don't really like the tube inside a tube but will see if it works out.

Crusarius I see you have also made huge progress on your mill.
I am following all of your posts as you explain all your progress.
Cheers.

Crusarius

Thanks William, wish I was closer to you, could have used mine. I am just about ready to get the sawframe off the stand. It was hanging from the mast last night. I realized I am going to have a lot of angle to overcome started wondering about puttin a pivot under the mast to be able to adjust the sawframe to be parallel to the bed.

I really like your idea about the shafts and bushings. not sure if I am going to regret what I did or not. part of my reasoning for sleeves was cost. The other part was weather. I know this is going to get left out in the weather and am concerned about bushings and rust.

Good luck. I am following your build pretty closely to. Thanks for the ideas :)

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: William1961 on October 12, 2017, 10:08:47 PM
Question.
What is the average width on from carriage roller wheels.
As in width of rails on the saw frame which the carriage rides on.
Mine will work out to 36" between rails.
Just wondering if that is about average.

Mine came out to be 44" IIRC.  And my uprights are outside of that by a couple inches.  Looking at the left wheel, you see what looks like shelf bracket upright (cause it is!).  That is a 24" x 84" welded frame I used for the upright.  I made some large C brackets and put UHMW plastic wrapping around the uprights for the head movement.  Looking at the right side wheel, you can see the upright is bolted to the grey channel that holds the wheels for the track.  The wheels are on the inside of the frame, effectively making the frame wider then the track.  (this is a very early picture and has changed a bit)

 
Your blade guides will be your limiting factor for overall board width (not necessarily log diameter).  You will start out with a log taking off slabs, whittling it down to a cant.  So, you want your bunks/logs stops & clamps wide enough to handle a big (read gnarly) log with crooks and bumps.  Your head uprights need to clear those bumps as well as the clamps and stops.  Soooo, 36" might be ok if you have nice straight trees and you are really looking to handle 24-28" logs - IMO.  Granted, a 28" log is pretty darn big!  I think my largest so far has been 30".
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

William1961

Ijohnsaw
Thanks for the info.
Crusarius you bet I would like to be able to see your build and borrow stuff.
I have not quite decided where I am going to place my 2 vertical supports.
That decision will ultimately determine my track width.
I was using info from members from this site and pictures and YouTube videos.
I have no build plans just winging the build.
This week I will be buying steel for the frame and I will have to decide "how wide"?
I will be using brass oil lite bushings for guides and 1 1/4" solid round bar.
6 inches at the top and 6 inches of bushings at the bottom of each support.
I tried a prototype and it seems to work.
I attached some pics as to how it will fit by using 2" square tubing 1/4" wall for a strong support.

  

 

Crusarius

That looks pretty sweet. I am guessing you will be doing a 4 post carriage?

William1961

Yes 4 post carriage.
I also just got 4 wheelchair motors and 2 deep cell batteries.
I went on to eBay and bought a 24 volt speed control.
I have a 350 inverter that take 12 v dc to 110 v ac and will use his 24 v dc charger at 5 amps to charge those batteries. They will be hooked up in series to make 24 volts.
Charge controller and controller for free.
From a retired wheelchair service tech who is moving and clearing out his garage.
Originally was selling them when I talked to him but decided to give them to me as too many people wanted them but never showed up.

  

 

Kbeitz

Looks good. You can buy a single wire 24 volt alternator off E-bay for around $60.00.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

After raising and lowering mine a few times this weekend I need some of those but I really want to stay 12 volt.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Crusarius on October 16, 2017, 07:47:35 AM
After raising and lowering mine a few times this weekend I need some of those but I really want to stay 12 volt.

They do have them in 12 volt. Just hard to find. Check out E-bay Look for tarp motor.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

oooh never thought of tarp motor. Thanks K.

William1961

Quote from: Kbeitz on October 16, 2017, 03:44:20 AM
Looks good. You can buy a single wire 24 volt alternator off E-bay for around $60.00.

Good idea.
I am using a 2groove pulley for both drives.
Was thinking of buying a 3 groove pulley for the motor which would leave me an extra belt drive for a 24v alternator.
You can just replace the diodes in a 12v alternator and make it a 24v.
Next project but I really need to get a functioning sawmill then add the bling bling.
Other members from this site have tackled the same issue.


rrleesb

Quote from: William1961 on October 16, 2017, 01:49:14 PM
Good idea.
I am using a 2groove pulley for both drives.
Was thinking of buying a 3 groove pulley for the motor which would leave me an extra belt drive for a 24v alternator.
You can just replace the diodes in a 12v alternator and make it a 24v.
Next project but I really need to get a functioning sawmill then add the bling bling.
Other members from this site have tackled the same issue.
I did the same with a 3 groove pulley on the motor so i can add the alternator.  I went the 24v route with a upconverter and never could get the required current to make the wheelchair motors drive properly.  Switched out to a tarp motor and it works much much better.

charles mann

Quote from: Crusarius on October 16, 2017, 07:47:35 AM
After raising and lowering mine a few times this weekend I need some of those but I really want to stay 12 volt.
This a 2 fold statement
If im not mistaken, someone on here said the 24v powe chair motors will work on 12v, just will be slower. I was looking at the 24v last night on ebay. Just not sure if between the 2 of them, they will have the umph to lift a 1300-1400# saw head. 
For guide rods, im going to go with 2 2" chrome cylinder hydraulic piston rods, 8' long and take 2 pieces of 4"x4"x0.250 wall tubing 12" long and use hysol to bond 2 pieces of 2"x2"x12" UHMW blocks for each sq tubing and have a machine shop bore a hole 0.001" bigger than the cyl rods so it'll be a close tolerance fit. I will drill and tap 2 holes per guide sleeve and thread in a zerk fitting to help wil keeping the rods lubed and use lithium grease. I will also put either felt or possibly a wheel/grease seal on the sleeves to act as a scrubber to scrub as much of the grease off during operations up/down so saw dust doesnt accumulate as bad on the rods. I may even incorporate both a seal and felt scrubber, using the felt as a wiper to catch what the seal doesnt. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Crusarius

you can always gear the motor down. that will increase the torque. However, I find that at 1:1 off the gearbox that is on the motor it is slow to raise but down speed is good. I almost want a second motor to assist the first motor. 


pineywoods

If the wheelchair motor is not fast enough on 12 volts, get a motor off a handicap scooter. Twice the power and torque, built in gearbox and electric brake.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Garrett7

Does the shaft your bandwheels are on have a keyway in it? 

Crusarius

The only key I have on mine is the drive pulley. The wheels use the tapered friction locks. I think thats what they are called.

The key slot is just long enough for the key and drive pulley.

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