Anchorseal or Anchorseal 2?

[Brad_bb]

I really don't understand why they sell 2 different products if they do the same thing?  I'm trying to figure out which to order and I don't see any tangible difference other than $5 price difference for a 5 gallon pail (which is not very significant).

[4x4American]

Anchorseal two is for companies that are claiming to be as "green" as possible...just pick one!!

[YellowHammer]

Anchorseal 2 can tolerate freezing.  I have tried both and definately prefer Anchorseal 1, it seems to flow and coat better.  I spray it 95% of the time, both on logs and lumber ends.
I also prefer the clear, as it allows me to see the log end grain better so makes better sawing patterns for higher yield and less stress.

Both are good products, and I have tried nothing else that's even close to their performance.   

[Brad_bb]

Just picked the original and ordered it.

[ToddsPoint]

I use the 2.  Never tried the original.  In a pinch I used wood glue once.  Worked great but not for outdoors.  Gary

[justallan1]

I've used a few of the 5 gallon buckets of AS2 and it works great, but will probably order original the next time in hopes that it dries clear.
When I saw burls I write on each piece the reference number and the dimensions, snap a pic of each side and then seal it. AS2 will dry a yellow color on box elder burl, so if I have to take additional pics they are off quite a bit.
I have learned to not be to careful getting it all over or it would take forever and a day to get anything done. :D

[Kbeitz]

I use the 2.  Never tried the original.  In a pinch I used wood glue once.  Worked great but not for outdoors.  Gary

If wood glue worked then we all should look into starch. Its a polymeric carbohydrate and looks and smell like white wood glue. We had it in 55
gal. drums at one place where I worked. One day I took a 12" 2x4 and
coated one side with the starch and stuck it fast to another 2x4. After 24
hr. of drying there was no getting them apart. So I would bet that white
wood glue is starch and I bet we could buy starch a whole lot cheaper than
glue or Anchorseal.

After typing this I googled it and found this.

Starch Based Adhesive

http://www.lddavis.com/glue-products/water-based-glues/starch-glue/?gclid=COG5o6SdktMCFVCCfgodDEwJfg

I did another search to see what a drum of starch cost and with out looking
to hard I found this Price:  $795.29 for 55 gallons. Or $13.00 per gal. on ebay.

Just another thought....

[petefrom bearswamp]

Justallan, I have found that anchorseal penetrates the end grain slightly
Is this a problem with your burls?

[nativewolf]

I use the 2.  Never tried the original.  In a pinch I used wood glue once.  Worked great but not for outdoors.  Gary

If wood glue worked then we all should look into starch. Its a polymeric carbohydrate and looks and smell like white wood glue. We had it in 55
gal. drums at one place where I worked. One day I took a 12" 2x4 and
coated one side with the starch and stuck it fast to another 2x4. After 24
hr. of drying there was no getting them apart. So I would bet that white
wood glue is starch and I bet we could buy starch a whole lot cheaper than
glue or Anchorseal.

After typing this I googled it and found this.

Starch Based Adhesive

http://www.lddavis.com/glue-products/water-based-glues/starch-glue/?gclid=COG5o6SdktMCFVCCfgodDEwJfg

I did another search to see what a drum of starch cost and with out looking
to hard I found this Price:  $795.29 for 55 gallons. Or $13.00 per gal. on ebay.

Just another thought....

And an interesting thought it is.  So..the idea would be to buy a gallon of starch of some known grade (so it could be tweaked) and add some solvent(?water? something else?) and create 1.X gallons, get some species off the firewood pile that is cheap that really needs sealing, mill it, and paint up a few stickers of same wood split between starch and AS?  Do a control no sealing while at it. 

I tell you what if you'd do the sawing and sealing (assuming others chime in and give thoughts/recommendations) I'll buy the starch and have it shipped to you (gallon or two, nothing crazy).  Currently without a mill (might bid on one soon), so I'm months and months from being able to do anything with a neat idea...other than buy you some starch. 

[scsmith42]

I really don't understand why they sell 2 different products if they do the same thing?  I'm trying to figure out which to order and I don't see any tangible difference other than $5 price difference for a 5 gallon pail (which is not very significant).

Anchorseal is a petroleum based product.  Back in '08 when the price of oil skyrocketed they developed a different formula that required less petroleum.  That new product was branded as Anchorseal II.

My experience is that II is a bit thinner than classic, and I have to use more of it in order to achieve the same effect.

[Kbeitz]

I would be glad to try it... I brought home about 30 gallons years ago when
I put a plywood floor down in my wood shop. I had 100's of sheets of 3/8"
plywood that was 4 feet by 5 feet. I used the 30 gallons of starch to glue
all the 3/8" plywood together to make 3/4" plywood. After 15 years it's still
working. The only thing I don't know is how it would hold up to rain.



 

[nativewolf]

Well it would be a very interesting test.  I'd do the three test, AS, Starch, and control and use as close to similar green log and compare both ends.  If it appears to work maybe have another 1-2 folks duplicate it.  If still working we are on to something.

[Kbeitz]

Well it would be a very interesting test.  I'd do the three test, AS, Starch, and control and use as close to similar green log and compare both ends.  If it appears to work maybe have another 1-2 folks duplicate it.  If still working we are on to something.

I think anything that stops the air from getting into the logs would work
just as long as the rain would not wash it off. I don't know what happens
to starch after it dries and then gets wet again.

[moodnacreek]

In a hobby situation try old latex house paint and newspaper.

[Kbeitz]

I did some more searching and found that some people is using starch for
tubeless tires sealant rather than Slime. I also found this.
starch adhesives have adhesive qualities and are called adhesive-sealants or structural sealants. The main difference between adhesives and sealants is that sealants typically have lower strength and higher elongation than adhesives do.  Sealants include plant resins such as pine pitch and birch pitch, bitumen, wax, tar, natural gum, clay (mud) mortar, lime mortar, lead, blood and egg. We all got blood but I think I'll pass on that one.
In the 1920s polymers such as acrylic polymers, butyl polymers and silicone polymers were first developed and used in sealants.

I did a search on starch-based sealant and came up with a lot of reading.

Sorry if I got this posting off track...

[nativewolf]

Well it would be a very interesting test.  I'd do the three test, AS, Starch, and control and use as close to similar green log and compare both ends.  If it appears to work maybe have another 1-2 folks duplicate it.  If still working we are on to something.

I think anything that stops the air from getting into the logs would work
just as long as the rain would not wash it off. I don't know what happens
to starch after it dries and then gets wet again.

Sounds right, well hopefully if you can test try covering one half with tin/sheet roofing so that they other gets a bit wet .  I know I like to cover my wood but sometimes people have sticks ends that get damp. 

[flatrock58]

I read somewhere that the wax based emulsion used to slow concrete drying down might work for sealing logs.   WR Meadows 1300-CLEAR Water-Base, Wax-Base Concrete Curing Compound is about $40-50 for 5 gallons.  In my area they don't carry it so shipping is $30.  Has anyone tried using a wax based concrete curing compound to seal wood?