Poor barn or timber/log??

[Firewoodjoe]

I may be moving and building in the future. 1-3 yeas who knows for sure. I'm gathering info and getting ready as possible. I'm cheap and would like to do a lot of work myself. I've built pole barns and I'm a logger so logs shouldn't be an issue. My question is would a square log timber type walls be easier and cheaper due to no siding, insulation or interior wall finish or would a pole barn house and side and insulate be better? I want concrete floors I will acid them for color and looks and very large over hang as a wrap around porch. 6-10 foot. Just thoughts and opinions. I'd like to have a small three bedroom for about 50k. Thanks.

[Firewoodjoe]

By the way my vote is 8-12" squared logs. We have a bell circle saw also. As long as I can understand the icc-400 codes.

[D L Bahler]

Accepting that you are investing a whole lot of time in the project, you can construct a building with log walls for a very low price. I've run quite a few cost comparisons myself for a number of jobs/projects. But there are certainly a few caveats. 

If you're eliminating cost, that means your viewing the log walls as a replacement for framing, siding, insulation, and interior finishing. You have to know what you're doing to pull that off, and realize that the typical American log building styles are not designed to pull this off, and can't be used to build a house up to modern building and comfort standards without considerable reengineering.

A log building designed to meet all these functions needs to be built according to some system made with this in mind. You have all sorts of factors to consider, like air movement through the walls, log settling as they dry and seasonal movement, and water shedding. In other words, this idea is a good one, but the structure needs to be carefully planned and designed if you want to come out on the other end with a house that is comfortable and performs reasonably well. 

[Firewoodjoe]

All is understood. I enjoy wood work and very capable of notches and laying the logs tight. I've seen many windows and doors built and installed floating to allow settling. And I lived in a log sided house for many years and know of weather issues on the wood. That's one reason I'd like a wrap around porch 10 foot. Basically build a small building under a large building if I could. Just my ideas at this point. And I'm a self employed logger so time and wood shouldn't be a huge issue. Thanks.

[Don P]

To avoid settlement issues I'd lean towards post and beam with log infill, let the log infill settle between posts but have the building bearing on non settling timbers.

That said, I've been trying for a week to get logs to slide in a post groove, a little twist locks things up pretty well. Things that never happen in papers and codes :D

[barbender]

From what I understand from contractor friends, any savings you get with pole buildings quickly evaporate, and then some, when you finish them into habitable buildings. Myself, if I was wanting to build a cheap, simple house, it would be slab on grade (monolithic slab) and stick framed.  I think that's the best "value" for your investment of time and money. 

[Firewoodjoe]

Barbender that was my thoughts exactly on pole barn finish cost. I've never ran the number but would have to be close to a traditional frame house. Only advantage is I know how to build one. And quick.

[ScottCC]

The only chance to build a house at this price is a log on slab with all wood finish.  This is my exact business plan for affordable houses. Codes get tricky but keep codes guy talking.  There is always a way to skin a cat.  But remember, design for change in the future.  Maybe plan on wrapping house if monies change with insulation and siding in future.  Use minimum windows to get by res check for codes.  Start off grid with renewable heat source also helps sometimes.  Someone has the answers where your planning on building.  But house size is what has you.  1000 sq ft at $50/sq ft is very difficult for typical finishes all labor in house.  500 sq ft at $100 is a really nice place all labor in house.  This does not take into account location.  IMHO. Welcome to the dance where no answer is right or wrong.

[farmer61]

hey im new here so still trying to figure out how all of this works. i have my own sawmill and plenty of trees im looking at building a shop for my sawmill. i was thinking of making 6x6x16 white oak beams and putting the protection guards around them that you can get at home depot to keep moisture away and putting them in 3 feet of concrete. bad idea or good? treated post in my area is expensive so trying to save some money. thank you

[Don P]

Concrete under a wood post is a good idea, make a larger footprint to spread the load out better and prevent the post from sinking. Concrete around a wood post just holds moisture there and accelerates rot, gravel is better. A good borate soak isn't going to hurt it especially with a post wrap in a gravel filled hole.

Whereabouts in swVA? I'm in Grayson Co.