finishes

[wheelinguy]

Anyone here have suggestions on finish options, I have been spraying oil based poly on most products and i like how it flows out and has a nice smooth finish on a vertical or horizontal piece.  I tried some oil modified water based poly but couldn't get the verticals to finish smooth, top comes out nice but i can just bury it in finish with no worry about runs.

[WDH]

I use Antique Oil ( an oil and varnish mixture called "Danish Oil") from Minwax to bring out the grain and color in walnut and cherry.  I let that dry for 2 or 3 days, buff with 0000 steel wool, and apply Minwax Fast Drying Poly in the satin finish, steel wooling between coats.  I have also used an alkyd varnish from Sherwin Williams, and I like that too.

On woods that will be stained, like red oak and maple, I apply the varnish the same as above after the stain has dried.  No Antique Oil with stain.

[Axe Handle Hound]

Like WDH posted, I like oil/varnish blends the best (Waterlox, most Tung oils, Danish oil, etc.).  They're nearly foolproof to apply and the oil brings out all the colors and figure in the wood.  They don't give a lot of protection though so for things that will likely see a lot of abuse I usually topcoat with a polyurethane. 

[LeeB]

A lot of those oil finishes are just a highly thinned poly. You can do the same yourself fo rmuch cheaper. Thin poly by 50-70%. True tung oils will be quite expensive. Check the label for ingredients.

[Dodgy Loner]

I have been using a lot of the rattle can finishes lately, with good success. I typically use darker woods like cherry, walnut, and birch heartwood, and on these woods I first give a coat of boiled linseed oil to bring out the color. After this has dried a few days, I like to spray a couple coats of shellac. It's cheaper than varnish and dries more quickly - on a warm day, you can easily spray one coat an hour - so you build more protective layers more quickly. I sand between coats, then finish the piece off with two coats of Minwax satin oil-based polyurethane in a spray can.

The downside to the spray cans is that they are a little more expensive than finish in paint cans, but in the end I think you'll come out ahead, because you don't have to buy brushes or an HVLP system and solvents to clean the brushes or HVLP system. Not to mention, they are stupid fast compared to brushed finishes, and you don't have to spend any time cleaning brushes or a sprayer.

[WDH]

Dodgy,

I like the shellac step.  I will try that.  I suspect the shellac deepens the finish and gives it more body.

[LeeB]

Is the spray shellac de-waxxed?

[WDH]

I think that it would have to be to be followed by a topcoat of varnish.

[jdtuttle]

This past year I have been using a blend of 1/3 Tun oil, 1/3 Poly, 1/3 mineral spirits. I use a cotton rag & wipe on & wipe off. It takes alot of coats but the finish is great.
jim

[Stephen1]

I am posting here as I am new to the wood working, and I might just find out more info as you guys post.
I just finnished a sign for my son out of elm, and sprayed with poly, turened out great.
I have a black walnut table I am working on now for my kitchen nook. I picked of walnut oli, but now I'm rerading that I will have to apply it every few months....can I get around that? Should I apply it, and thewn something over it?
Stephen

[Axe Handle Hound]

I am posting here as I am new to the wood working, and I might just find out more info as you guys post.
I just finnished a sign for my son out of elm, and sprayed with poly, turened out great.
I have a black walnut table I am working on now for my kitchen nook. I picked of walnut oli, but now I'm rerading that I will have to apply it every few months....can I get around that? Should I apply it, and thewn something over it?
Stephen

Depends...what kind of a finish do you like and how much abuse will the top get?  Do you like to feel the wood surface under your fingers or do you like the smooth clear look of a thicker finish?  Will kids be eating at this table?  Do you mind some dings and dents? 

[WDH]

A oil/varnish mixture like Danish Oil will look great on walnut with a soft shine.  But, it offers little in protecting the wood from wet glasses, etc.  Varnish is more protective, just does not look quite as natural as the Danish oil.  It is a trade off.

[Dodgy Loner]

Is the spray shellac de-waxxed?

The Zinsser "Clear" shellac - either in the spray can or the paint can - is dewaxed, blonde shellac. They also sell "Amber" shellac in a paint can that is not dewaxed. You can use the amber shellac to produce a very rich finish on cherry or walnut, but if you want to topcoat with polyurethane, then do not stir the can before brushing it on. The wax settles to the bottom, so as long as you don't disturb the finish too much, it will essentially be "dewaxed" shellac.

[tcsmpsi]

Fundamentally, it all depends on the wood, the project, the time and the overall appeal one is working toward.   I use some of most everything.  I do like the 'danish oil' on the woods/projects for which it will apply.  Heck, I even use boot creme, from time to time. 

Oil based flooring poly, though taking work to finish, provides a very tough outer finish.