drilling a straight hole

[dovetails]

Ok, I am making a new gun stock, and having trouble getting a hole thru the stock with
out comming out the side, or being way off center!  It's a 22, but has stock like a shotgun.
Hole is 13" long,about 3/8s. I have the drills, just can't seem to get it to drill with out curving on me.  Wood is hickory.  Any tricks or ideas?

[SwampDonkey]

Drill press and vise.  ;D Believe me, build a weaving loom, and you'll soon have a drill press.  ;D

I'm sure there are some 'tricks', but that's my trick. ;)

[Dan_Shade]

are you trying to drill end grain?

[1938farmall]

never done it myself, but have seen where a crude drill followed the pith without wandering.  don't know if it would work with hickory being so hard, but you could try it with some scrap.  if you're not too far along, you could cut a new blank & locate the pith where you want the hole.  al

[terrifictimbersllc]

Spin it in a lathe and push a lamp auger through the hollow tailstock.  >:( : 8)

[Larry]

Easiest way is with a metal lathe.  Chuck the drill bit in the headstock and only let a couple of inches protrude.  Spear your exit point in the stock with a center in the tailstock.  Use the toolpost to prevent the stock from turning.  Push with the tailstock.  Repeat until you get through.

With a drill press fabricate a center that can be clamped on the drill press table.  It's about the same routine as the lathe.  I would start off with a short drill.

Other than a special fixture to hold the gun stock these are the only two ways to do it.  With a hand held drill you will be chucking out lots of firewood before you get done.

Long drills are available about anywhere tools are sold.  They are called electrician bits.  If you look at the tip it is sharpened more pointy than a standard twist drill.  Think the angle is 90 degrees and its for wood.  Standard twist drills are sharpened at 118 degrees.  Nothing saying that you can't alter that angle for your purpose.  Braze on a metal dowel for a longer bit.  If you sharpen make DanG sure the angle and length is the same on both flutes or the drill will wander.

Now for my disclaimer...I've never tried hickory.  But I would bet money I could do it.

[dovetails]

Thanks guys, it all sounds good,   BUTT,  lol always a but in there,  as I said, it is hickory,an the bit wants to wander around after getting about 1/2 way thru.  I think the problem is because it has to go sort of across and with the grain,because of the length of  the hole. I did notice that a  spade bit seemed to go best, so will try "another" blank useing a long one an see if that gets it. Been useing bits that are same as for metal,and they work great going across the grain,but not with/on an angle, the grain.  I think I will start with a bigger piece of wood, drill the hole, then cut the blank out from it,if I get the hole straight. that way I can try to follow the grain, not have to be on an angle with it.
  Sure sounded "easy" to drill a hole for the bolt to go thru,never had one wander like this before! Oh well hickory is good fire wood anyways! lol.

[SwampDonkey]

I think the problem more than anything is the length of the hole and the bit rattles because it loses stability with length. The tip will whip a little, so it finds easier spots to cut into. I've never had troubles drilling end grain with a mortise attachment on a drill press. I'm only going 3-4", not 12", not 20" etc. Task tools makes long bits, they are real pricey even for a 3/16" bit ($15). That won't solve much, still won't be accurate enough.

[Magicman]

Hickory is heavy.  Any particular reason for using it?

[ely]

try using a ship auger bit with the worm on the end. that worm will pull the cutters where you aim it... no wandering.

[21incher]

Try finding a piece of hollow tube and create like a 4 inch long doweling jig to get it started straight. I have had luck using 12 inch aircraft drills that seem to be a little stiffer then wood bits.

[Weekend_Sawyer]

If you are using a strait grained blank, can you align the grain so the bit follows it?
Just thinkin out loud here.

Jon

[dovetails]

/quote]

mainly cause I have a lot of it on hand, been drying for years   The old stock weighs about 14 oz., the hickory one is only 20 oz., and I have a lot more sanding to do on it,making it thinner.

/quote]   Thats what I'll try next, drill the hole then cut out the stock! Should work better. 
       
[quote author=21incher
Try finding a piece of hollow tube and create like a 4 inch long doweling jig to get it started straight. I have had luck using 12 inch aircraft drills that seem to be a little stiffer then wood bits.

Starting it straight is not a problem,but it wants to curve about half way thru,can see thru the hole,but can see the curve.    Butt of stock is 1 1/2 x 5'",small end is only 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 "  so needs to be down the center!

/quote] wanna bet?   lol   it came out the side about 12" down!   Like I said, I think it is because of the angle accross the grain.  Going to try to go staight with the grain and see how it works.

[quote author=SwampDonkey
I think the problem more than anything is the length of the hole and the bit rattles because it loses stability with length. The tip will whip a little, so it finds easier spots to cut into. I've never had troubles drilling end grain with a mortise attachment on a drill press. I'm only going 3-4", not 12", not 20" etc. Task tools makes long bits, they are real pricey even for a 3/16" bit ($15). That won't solve much, still won't be accurate enough.

Have bits 16-24 " long,but are for metal. used to drill out manifold exhust bolts back in the day. 
  Hey, I bet I could drill several short pieces,then line them up and glue back together!  lol That might work better?  Kidding, I'll try going straight down the grain, then cut out the blank, should work that way.

/quote]     Yes Dan,but on an angle, so it trys to follow the grain I guesss.

[Larry]

Pointing above.  Maybe I wasn't clear in my first post.  Metal twist drills are sharpened at 118 degrees.  This is a flat angle and will wander in wood, end grain or not.  Wood twist drills are sharpened at 90 degrees and they cut with a shearing action so wander less...but still wander.  Sharp sharp and sharp is the key word.  Than take it slow and let the drill cut.  If you don't know how to sharpen plenty of utube's to learn from using a simple grinder and it is an essential skill.

Take those old drills and get them ground correctly and you will see an improvement.  Cut one down to 15" as there is no need to push any more drill than required.  They will work just as good as a new electricians bit.

Yes, there are better drills for long holes.  As Terrifictimbers posted a lamp auger will work.  I think maybe a gun drill is near the same.  Both are expensive and not needed for a hole only 13" long...and they can also wander.

[Lud]

Haven't seen it said so will add two cents.   Using smaller than final hole size drill go in from each end hopefully meeting in the middle and then redrill with final size going as far as you can from the guide hole that seems most accurate.  Good luck! 8)

[hardtailjohn]

For drilling an accurate hole in wood, use a "Brad Point" bit. The design will keep the bit from walking. That's all I use for drilling in aircraft wood.
John

[Delawhere Jack]

Use a larger diameter bit, say 5/8-3/4" to drill two thirds of the length of the stock from the butt end, then the rest of the way with the 3/8" bit. You'll use a shorter bolt to fasten the stock the the action, and of course you'll need a long screwdriver.

Drill the hole in the blank before you start shaping it. You might want to start the 3/8" hole from the receiver end of the blank so you can use a shorter bit. Drilling before you start shaping the stock should make getting the alignment right easier. Lathe or drill press will make it much simpler.

[Don_Papenburg]

Try the newer Irwin speedbor bits they have three flutes and a brad point . Make a nice round hole without the spade bit viberation.

[5quarter]

all great ideas above. two other things that might help. when running, the tip of your bit should appear motionless. even a small wobble will nudge off your line when drilling that long. The other thing is to take it slow, real slow. as long a your bit is sharp and running strait and your work is clamped and you take it nice and easy, you should be able to drill at any angle to the grain without much trouble.

[Hilltop366]

Worst case, saw it in two length ways then router out half of the hole in each half and glue back together.