Another frame

ARKANSAWYER · December 06, 2003, 05:26:31 PM

Here is most of the frame I am putting up for a house. I sawed the lumber off of their land back in the summer after they felled it and drug it up in a field. Their cost for the 900 sq ft home will be under $25 grand when finished. Not to bad.
ARKANSAWYER

slowzuki · December 10, 2003, 06:14:41 AM

Nice looking stuff. Is that boom strapped onto the pallet forks?
Ken

ARKANSAWYER · December 10, 2003, 07:02:39 PM

Ken,
The boom is a 6x6x16' white oak that has a deal that slips over the forks and hooks onto the back bar. The cable runs from the end of the boom and hooks to the bent and on the forks back guard. I have raised several frames this way and it has worked well for me. Poor people have poor ways.
ARKANSAWYER

oakrocker · December 10, 2003, 10:30:37 PM

Arkansawyer,
Have you posted photos of the boom set up on any other threads of this forum? I'm interested in seeing a view of the "deal" that hold the boom to the fork assembly. Just realized that I'm just down the road apiece from you.
Kirk

Jim_Rogers · December 11, 2003, 12:13:07 PM

QuotePoor people have poor ways.
ARKANSAWYER

Smart people use the tools they have many different ways, to make them more productive and resourceful.

Up here in the northeast they call it "Yankee ingenuity", but I don't want to upset ARKANSAWYER by saying that he has some of that in him. :D :D :D ;D

Jim_Rogers · December 11, 2003, 12:29:12 PM

OakRocker:
I saw this crane type frame on a fork lift at the timber framing school in Maine:

And down the street from me is a steel working company that has one similar to this without the "high" riser effect.
I can tomorrow take a picture of it and post it here. It's raining here today and I can't get it today.
Do you want to see this other crane setup?
Jim Rogers

Jim_Rogers · December 11, 2003, 12:42:42 PM

Here is another view of the same crane:

ronwood · December 11, 2003, 02:05:57 PM

Jim_Rogers,

What type of strap is being used to lift the timbers when using the forklift?

Thanks
Ron

L. Wakefield · December 11, 2003, 08:01:26 PM

On that very first forklift crane gizmo (1st pic in the thread)- do you have a counterweight on the back of the lift to keep it from tipping forward from the torque when the crane arm is loaded as in the picture? lw

oakrocker · December 11, 2003, 11:07:24 PM

Jim...
Yes I would like to see the additional pictures if you get a chance to get them. I have been building my own "creative" tools to move timbers to and from the mill yard and always appreciate help in the creative processes. Anybody else ever realize just how much time is consumed just thinking about stuff???.
We're about to get clobbered with snow up here in the upper Ozarks so won't be gettin much done for a few days.
Kirk

Jim_Rogers · December 12, 2003, 05:46:12 AM

L.Wakefield:
The first post in this thread was by ARKANSAWYER and I can't speak for him or his "deal". He'll have to show you more.

The crane on the fork lift from the school in Maine slides over the forks using steel tubes. With these steel tubes around the forks there is no way the crane and tilt forward or backward once slide onto the forks. When the mast needs to be leaned forward, a simple short chain can be attached to the crane and the fork lift mast to prevent the crane attachment from sliding off the forks.

Most of the rest of the crane is also tube steel, as I remember it two inch square.

You've got to understand that this crane is for just lifting one beam at a time, and that most beams wouldn't weight that much, probably less than 1000 lbs. However, in the second picture we were using it to lift an entire bent. Before we tried that we did the math to figure the weight of the bent to see if the rig and the strap could handle it. Which it could, and besides the forklift crane lifting the bent there were students all round the bend lifting and pushing it into place.

Ronwood:
The strap is a standard nylon strap used in timber framing. It's a continuous loop strap. Once it's put around the beam the other end is then attached to the crane hook or u-bolt.
I don't know the rating of the strap by most handling equipment supply houses should have such things.
Rigging for assembling a frame is another whole field in itself.

Jim Rogers

Jim_Rogers · December 12, 2003, 06:14:26 AM

oakrocker:
Here is a shot of the steel workers forklift crane from the company down the street from me:

This is used on a regular small forklift to load steel beams onto trucks and trailers, and move them around their shop and yard.
The bottom pieces are channel steel and they have welded stock across the bottom from flange to flange to make a pocket for the forks to slide into, similar to the tube steel design.
The top piece of strap steel is welded on top of the boom piece to help prevent the box tube from bending under the weight of the steel beams being moved around.

Jim Rogers

Don P · December 12, 2003, 02:23:57 PM

Another nice looking frame Arky.
To expand on LW's question, the lift does become "tippier" with the jib's shown. Just something you have to keep an eye on. Normally forklift capacity is measured with a load, I think, 2' out on the forks. The telescoping lifts like Bibby's are very easy to tip on their nose if you overextend.
I was trying to stage a couple of bundles on a floor deck and had to boom out across the foundation hole about 18' to keep the lift on safe ground. As I got over the deck the lift tipped, dumped the load on the floor, broke the straps, the lumber slid off and then I slammed back to ground...wasn't that a Ray Stevens song? Always carry the load low.

ARKANSAWYER · December 13, 2003, 10:32:59 AM

Sorry it took me so long but I had to get home in the daylight so I could hook the boom back on to the tractor and take photos.
First photo is of the bracket that fits on the forks. It is upside down in the photo so you can see it well.

Next is a photo of the bracket that fits over the 4x4 tubing at the back of the forks. It is 6x6 1/4 wall tubing with braces and just slips over the 4x4. This photo is from the back.

Here is the photo of it on the forks. It is tipped down so that when the cable it put into place and it is picked up the tension is on the cable and the boom just keeps it stiff.

I hope this helps. My tractor is a 63 hp 4x4 Belarus and can lift 2800 lbs on the forks. I would guess that I can only lift about 1,000 lbs on the boom as the hydralics will not pick up any more at 16 ft out but am sure that the boom can handle that load. Most of the bents that I lift are under 800 lbs and so far I have not had any real problems. I lift with a chain on the bent so it can be hit with a 1x4 and it will side down and come off when the bent is raised and braced into place.
ARKANSAWYER
P.S. Kirk you are just on the other side of the hills from me. I am just south of Yellville toward the Buffalo River.

Jim_Rogers · December 17, 2003, 05:44:41 AM

Ronwood:
I found a site where you can get those round sling lifting straps online.
If you got to //www.truckntow.com and click on lifting and pulling and then round slings they have them in different lengths and different weight ratings.
Some of the smallest ones should be strong enough for lifting single timbers, and they aren't that expensive.
If you're looking to get some.
Jim Rogers

Stump Jumper · December 17, 2003, 07:56:39 PM

I like that boom Arkansawyer thinking of building one all out steel for a skid steer not sure how far it will reach though because of the short wheel base of the skid steer have to do trial and error but thanks for the pics.

ARKANSAWYER · January 02, 2004, 07:00:20 PM

Well on the last day of the year we finished the last frame of the year. Fitting I guess. We fought high winds the last 2 weeks trying to get the tin on the roof. We were to start the siding and the owners are going to finish the rest. All in all it was a good job and went well. Some snow and rain slowed us down and the wind kept us from working full speed. It is done and I have started cutting out the first frame for 2004 on the first day of the year. Life is good. 8)

UNCLEBUCK · January 05, 2004, 08:46:16 PM

hello arkansawyer , could you tell more of what you put on the exterior and have you ever made your own S.I.P. "s , I see some insulated panels have sheetrock fastened to the interior side and wondering how the sheetrock is protected where it crosses and lays against each green post . It looks like you did it a different way and am curious to know a bit more , thanks for the nice pics :P

slowzuki · January 06, 2004, 01:13:22 PM

A company here spaces there timber frames on 4 ft centres so the sheet rock joints don't show.

I don't plan on using any sheet rock in my shop walls, I plan on boards over the posts, 1 layer extruded foam, next layer extruded foam with the strapping slots then my cladding. No thermal bridging. Wiring is all in floor or overhead over beams then run down to work benches or equipment.

Toying with ideas of vapor barrier, may use foil but with such low perm rates I'd need an air exchanger for the wood stove.
Ken

Jim_Rogers · January 06, 2004, 02:34:14 PM

Some frames are designed for panels in advance.

Each frame's enclosure system should be well thought out in advance and designed properly for that method.

Jim Rogers

UNCLEBUCK · January 06, 2004, 02:53:05 PM

thanks slowzuki and jim, in my book learnin it says that if I space my frames 8 foot apart and lay the S.I.P.' horizontal that the seams will be hidden behind the horizontal girts so there would be no taping for the sheetrock that is fastened to the interior side of the S.I.P."s , it gets too confusing to try and describe my dilemna so I think I will just do it , too much books isnt a good thing sometimes , it hurts my head ! :D , I do like your way that you described , hoping to get more answers so I can make a choice .

UNCLEBUCK · January 06, 2004, 03:42:22 PM

I guess its not pollite to be tryin to change this thread from arkansawyers celebration of a fine timberframe job completed to my dilemna so I will stop here and say that it is a very nice building that arky has completed , wish I could say the same ! ;D

dan-l-b · January 06, 2004, 04:54:03 PM

Looks good Arky, what kinda siding is that anyway? ???

ARKANSAWYER · January 06, 2004, 07:08:06 PM

The siding is board and batten SYP. When all of the siding is on they will pressure wash and coat with 2 coats of boiled linseed oil and I am not sure after that. The boards are 3/4 thick and 10 inches wide.
On SIBs you can have them made to fit the frame. I have put them in place that were like 12 ft wide and 24 ft long. Most are smaller. I have toyed with the Ideal of makeing my own SIBs. If I get a T&G machine I know I will. It would make it fast to enclose the frame. There is a lot of fore thought that has to go into the panels before the frame is raised. If the panels do not fit the frame then it is hard to cover up. A lot depends on the interior finish and out side siding. At first I saw lots of frames have sheet rock interiors and vinyl siding. Not most folks are going with real wood inside and out now. My next frame is going to have cordwood infill. OH BOY!
ARKANSAWYER