Does anyone know if putting celotex thermal polyisocyanurate board on the walls is good? It's foul faced so seems like it may work even better to reflect the heat in????
I used it on mine. Covered it with a vapor barrier then covered that with a layer of 1/2" treated plywood. If you don't cover it with plywood, you will knock holes in it or tear it up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/037.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1425299737)
I will cover it most likely but just thought it may work better not
You will definitely tear it.
Quote from: WDH on May 25, 2018, 07:36:30 AM
I used it on mine. Covered it with a vapor barrier then covered that with a layer of 1/2" treated plywood. If you don't cover it with plywood, you will knock holes in it or tear it up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/037.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1425299737)
Ok btw how do you like the kd150
The foil does not help in a well insulated wall. It does make a good vapor barrier, but best to also use plastic.
I have the Nyle version, the L53. It is the same as the KD150. Nyle makes both, they are one and the same. It is a little wood drying beast, for sure.
I have one also, and it is a good machine.
Cool what does setting pitch mean??
Running the temp in the kiln up to 150 degrees or so to make the sticky pitch set and get solid so that it does not ooze pitch on your customers projects. Just make sure that you turn the compressor off before you set the dry bulb temp at 150 degrees or you will trip the compressor. Don't ask me how I know this.......... :).
Haha so when it's dry 8-10% I set to 150 to do that for how long? And does not matter what type of wood? And by what do you mean ozz out?
Yes, at the end of the drying cycle, turn off the compressor and set the dry bulb temp at 150 degrees. When the chamber gets to 150 degrees, hold that temp for 24 hours. This will set the pitch in softwoods and sterilize hardwoods to kill any beetles, larvae, or viable eggs in the wood.
You don't want sticky boards in resinous wood like pine. You also do not want insects in the wood.
The longer you hold the 150 F, the more sap, that would be sticky and/or move, you will evaporate. I would suggest that 2 days will do a fairly good job. Note that at this temperature, moisture will evaporate, so try to keep the kiln sealed up as best you can to stop moisture loss. The greater the moisture loss, the more warp, the more brittleness when machining, and the harder to nail and saw.
Do you need the vaper barrier ?
If you tape the joints on the foil face insulation with vaper tape or foil tape?
Bruno
I would say yes. Just a cheap way to guarantee a very good vapor barrier.
I'm just taking this all in.
I'm going to have a kiln at some point