Turbo 7's causing me liver problems.

[AnthonyW]

When my bands go to the scrapyard they are broken in at least one place.

I have yet to break a blade. I'm not sure where the blades that cannot be sharpened end up. All of my blades but one have gone to WM Resharp. Some don't come back. There was one I didn't send, was missing a few teeth all the way to the gullet (that's what happens when you try to resaw a 3/8" eye hook). I didn't think it was worth even trying.

[PA_Walnut]

On a related note, can the carbides be sharpened the same way (same equipment) as the others? As many times?

[LeeB]

PA,
Just curious, have you tried the 7 turbos again now that it's warmed up some? Are your logs still semi frozen?

[PA_Walnut]

I have not, but I will again just for reference. I've used Turbo7's for a while now (2 boxes) and I just don't care for them. I'm almost always doing wide cuts and they just don't seem to work well. If I go too slow, the blade heats up and tension drops, go to fast and the saw starts groaning and speed drops.

When sawing somethings smaller and softer, like poplar, I can really move. Otherwise, just have to wrestle with them too much.

[AnthonyW]

I have not, but I will again just for reference. I've used Turbo7's for a while now (2 boxes) and I just don't care for them. I'm almost always doing wide cuts and they just don't seem to work well. If I go too slow, the blade heats up and tension drops, go to fast and the saw starts groaning and speed drops.

When sawing somethings smaller and softer, like poplar, I can really move. Otherwise, just have to wrestle with them too much.

Why would you go with less bite on harder wood? When cutting harder metals with a fixed speed machine, the call is for less TPI to increase the ability to get a bite on the material. With only 15hp, I find the same thing to be true on the sawmill. The 10* blades have so much bite in EWP the feed rate drops to keep the cut quality good and the engine from stalling. The 7* allows for a faster cut, same good quality, and less trouble with stalling.

[PA_Walnut]

The carbide are 7° also, but work MUCH better.

Have some 4° blades on the way also, which folks report as working really well.

Will report back. Quality and consistency are more important to me than speed.

[YellowHammer]

Intersting topic, how long will a carbide band run in clean wide wood?

[Chuck White]

When my bands go to the scrapyard they are broken in at least one place.

Yep...I run them until they break....

I run them until they break or have cracks, OR if they hit some really bad metal!

[JB Griffin]

Me and the boss discussed trying the carbide blades, but we decided that it would probably die from end of flex life before they paid for themselves!
So we never tried em!

[Percy]

I rotate all ten blades in a box, they all get equal time and sharpenings. When I only have seven left due to breakage, I order a new box and when it arrives, I use them right away and save the six or seven tired ones left till I accumulate too many. Then I just toss them. My drive belt is in the same confinement as the blade and in over 10,000 hours, I've messed up two drive belts from broken blades.(300 clams per belt) Had a .055 shear all the carridge bolts that hold the idle side blade door on the 70. First a bang and then the door flew off. Changed underwear...then quit using tired blades...  ;D ;D