Toe Boards ????

richard boyd · March 12, 2018, 08:12:29 PM

Ok here is a question on toe boards. Is it a must to use them? I find I can square up a log without using them and don't fill that I lost that much lumber.

starmac · March 12, 2018, 08:20:31 PM

I think that depends on the log, I have seen some that the toe boards were not long enough too.

Chuck White · March 12, 2018, 09:40:59 PM

Back when I first got into sawmilling, I worked with my FIL, on his 1992 LT40G18 manual mill!

The mill had the crankup style toeboards (log levelers) and I found it faster to use the canthook and lever the log up and put a piece of 1" or 2" wood under the log to level it up, and it worked just fine!

Magicman · March 12, 2018, 10:02:49 PM

It is a very rare occasion when I do not use a toe board on a log. Very rare indeed.

I always level either the pith or the log depending upon what the targeted lumber is.

WV Sawmiller · March 12, 2018, 10:52:46 PM

I use mine probably more than not especially on the bigger, butt logs where there is more flare. Since when I am at home I mostly saw alone and off-load on to a trailer at the end of my mill I also use the rear toe board to cut the cant to the rails then roll the last stack of boards off the cant or any heavy slabs, mantels, etc I cut. I love my toeboards.

climber2 · March 12, 2018, 11:08:50 PM

You can square any log without using your toe boards. Will the practice produce good lumber every log? Most likely no.

Not only does using them allow for better yield, when you center the pith with them you achieve better quality boards in that yield.

Magicman · March 13, 2018, 08:31:03 AM

Plus you can forget and leave one up and saw some thick-n-thin lumber. :

Ga Mtn Man · March 13, 2018, 08:59:46 AM

I too use mine on almost every log. Do circle mills "level" the log? Just wondering ???.

Sixacresand · March 13, 2018, 09:11:18 AM

Quote from: Magicman on March 13, 2018, 08:31:03 AM
Plus you can forget and leave one up and saw some thick-n-thin lumber. :

One of four things I try to remember to check before each cut.

Crossroads · March 13, 2018, 10:20:38 AM

My First mill didn't have them, so on the logs with mor taper I stuffed a chunk of whatever looked to be about the right size under the end. The new mill has them and at first I ignored them, then I started using them just enough to forget to lower them and make a couple long wedges. Now I use them on almost every log,but seem to want to lower them, even when they're already down.

terrifictimbersllc · March 13, 2018, 10:59:46 AM

Main use is frequent to optimize the path of the blade through the log. But there are plenty of other reasons toe boards get used.

I sometimes use the rear toe board to skooch the back end of heavy logs over to the back stops. If the clamp won't pull it over, bouncing the back end up and down with the rear toe board, while pulling on the clamp, can get it over.

Toe boards are another trick in the bag to get the clamp un-stuck if it is stuck on the log for whatever reason.

Also to lift a cant up to put it on 2x material if one wants to scoot it sideways over the bed backstops to cut at maximum width like with through & through slabbing natural edge stuff that's over 24" wide (on my mill). Just add 1.5" as the last cut in Accuset set to bed mode.

Also to allow rolling a log or boards one way or the other for a number of reasons.

And to lift up whatever is on the bed to easily get machine forks in from the side.

Some of these words may be without meaning for a manual mill.

Larry · March 13, 2018, 02:25:20 PM

A good understanding of why toeboards are used is helpful in making the decision of whether to use them or not. Armed with knowledge, the decision is easy.

I think the biggest use of toeboards is to effect grain runout in the sawn lumber. Most hardwoods are sawn for appearance/cabinet uses. If sawn parallel to the bark by using a toeboard we get even grain lines. If sawn without toeboards with cone shaped logs we get cathedral grain. A custom cabinet maker would always place the peak of a cathedral up on his doors.

Since softwoods are mostly used for structural purposes we don't wan any grain runout as this effects the strength of the lumber. We also want to insure the pith is centered in the cant, again for strength and to help the cant remain straight.

Their are other reasons, but I think I hit on the most important.

Kbeitz · March 13, 2018, 04:38:10 PM

If you'r going to make a toeboards kill two birds with one stone. Put a roller on top of it. then you can skoot the log one way or the other real easy.

slider · March 13, 2018, 05:49:26 PM

Kebitz is correct on this one . If you are building a mill by all means use roller toe boards .

Crossroads · March 13, 2018, 06:29:25 PM

They're also handy for lifting a cant to clean a piece of bark off the bed rail that may be holding one end up.

47sawdust · March 13, 2018, 09:04:16 PM

I added hyd. roller toe boards to my Lt30.Being a short bed mill it is a big help when I get a 16' log on the mill and need to make an adjustment.

Also handy for 16' hemlock

starmac · March 13, 2018, 10:21:12 PM

47sawdust, did you buy woodmizer toe boards or build your own?

DPatton · March 13, 2018, 11:07:18 PM

Hydraulic toe boards would have been nice indeed. For now I have to settle for the manual jack type toeboard on my TK 1600. But even though mine is manual I can fathom how I could possibly cut quality lumber without it. It controls everything about your opening cut or two.

47sawdust · March 14, 2018, 06:05:25 AM

Starmac,
I bought the toe boards from WM.A little pricey but after a while I forget about the cost.I also added a loader last summer.It started life as a standard mill and is slowly evolving into a place for my so called retirement fund ;D ;D

apm · March 14, 2018, 08:21:44 AM

Quote from: DPatton on March 13, 2018, 11:07:18 PM
Hydraulic toe boards would have been nice indeed. For now I have to settle for the manual jack type toeboard on my TK 1600. But even though mine is manual I can fathom how I could possibly cut quality lumber without it. It controls everything about your opening cut or two.

Hi DPatton,
I just got a Timberking 1600 and it's got nothing for toe boards. It's got two "troughs" that look like where they should be. Would it be possible to post pictures of the manual toe boards on your mill? Maybe an explanation of how they work?
thanks,
Greg

Kbeitz · March 14, 2018, 08:52:21 AM

This is what I did. Simple scissor jack pushing up a roller on a pivot.

Crusarius · March 14, 2018, 11:10:23 AM

Why do I have to overthink everything. That is genius. super simple and easy. not hard to put motor on it either.

Kbeitz · March 14, 2018, 11:42:57 AM

If you don't have hydraulics you could use a 12 volt actuator. E-bay has 6,170 listings for 12 volt actuator.

Crusarius · March 14, 2018, 11:54:58 AM

I did already buy a 12 volt linear actuator that I was planning on using.

Ljohnsaw · March 14, 2018, 01:14:12 PM

So, how powerful of an actuator is necessary? There are tons of 225lb and 330lb units out there. I found one (actually 4 available) 500lb units (24v) for $50. Also found a 2,200lb unit for $125 but its duty cycle is 5% (1 min on, 19 min off). I think the power would be good for log turner but too short of a duty cycle. Good for a toe board, maybe log clamps? The little 225 or 330 units might be good for log stops and potentially clamps?