Minimal "Rot" on post/beam edges, OK???

[AButton]

I am taking on my first large milling project, putting together a storage shed/barn for myself. I do not have a great access to newly cut lumber so what I have has began to rot in the sapwood. I have been able to cut most of the rot out, keeping the heart, but on some of the larger pieces (8x8, 6x12)  some rot (very minimal) remains on the corners. It appears to be white rot (though I am not an expert) Is this acceptable? I have them stickered, under a roof to keep the moisture down and let them air dry with plenty of circulation. Any help would be great. 

Aaron 

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

I'd say knock the "rotten" edges off the timbers using a spoke shave or similar...

Herb

[Don P]

Not what you want to hear. The problem with decay is it can cause significant strength loss well before we can visually detect it.

[AButton]

Ya, that's a bit of concern. I wonder if there is a way I can "test" the strength. By chance, does anybody know if the heart wood typically gets damaged in similar scenarios? 

[moodnacreek]

Depends on the species; rot resistance woods have sap wood that rots very soon after the tree is cut. In warm weather logs are supposed to be cut in 2 weeks unless watered.  [ this is why I keep saying put them on cold damp ground] . Anyhow in spruce [and maple] there is no sap wood and any rot seen is very bad as it will keep going. If the posts and beams you are sawing are over size or of even slightly rot resistant  then the draw knife, as mentioned, is what I would do.

[Don P]

When checking structures for rot one of the first and easiest tests is the "pick test".  Insert the point of a knife or pick, I like those very small slotted instrument screwdrivers, at a shallow angle to the surface and attempt to lever up a thin splinter. If the wood lifts a long splinter, it is likely sound. If instead it breaks short and brash over the blade, it could be decayed. Go very carefully using wood with incipient decay, especially for bending members.

[Brad_bb]

Pics?  Species?  8x8 isn't what I'd call "big".  That's average for timberframing.

[AButton]

I can take a couple pics tomorrow, it's Doug fir from northern California.

Hahah, I thought 8x8 was quite large (from my limited construction background😀 ) thanks for all of the help.

[AButton]

Pics?  Species?  8x8 isn't what I'd call "big".  That's average for timberframing.

 

 

[Don P]

That is not minimal and is not structural. Use it for something non structural. It looks like you got kind of off centered cutting as well. All in a day's learning. I'd bonfire the sapwood and make boards for paneling or such from the heartwood

[AButton]

Ya that's kind of what I was thinking. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully not all my logs are like this. 

[moodnacreek]

That wood sat to long, happens all the time. So many people think whole logs will dry and last .

[Don P]

If the rest of the logs were felled at about the same time I would not use them for structural members. You're into that zone where you know there is strength loss but its anyone's guess how much. Paneling, siding, trim or some non structural use would be much better. When you are milling and also building it takes a special kind of dispassionate critical eye.

[Peter Drouin]

Run a router with a 1" chamfer bit and 45° the corners.