Well it has been a year now but I finally got started on clearing the land so, I can start to build my Belsaw M-14. This mill used to belong to a friend of mine that had passed away about 12 years ago. I happened by chance to find it again last year in a agricultural newpaper for sale. I had to drive half way across the state, but I just had to get it back.
It was originally built on a wooden frame, but it had rotted for age. So, I'm rebuilding it with a steel frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20161225_150327.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1482701863)
I'll try to upload pictures as I make progress on it.
Tim
Good for you Tim!
We will be happy to see your progress.
What are you going to power it with?
PC
I'm planning to use either use a Mercedes 5cylinder turbo diesel engine or a Cummins 4cylinder turbo diesel engine.
Tim
I just bought one last year and moved it to my place..I absolutely love it....Its a wood frame and currently pto drive..Planning on using a 4 cyl John Deere diesel..( Im not a Deere guy but the price is right)
Tim,
Welcome, I will be following along with this build. you are getting started right with pictures 8) I have a friend in Griffen ( david jackson) anyway the mercedes / 4bt is very interesting to me as I am currently putting a mercedes om617 into my jeep.
Good Luck
archie
Tim, be aware of the engine rotation, an engine mounted behind the mill will be turning the wrong way, as they are designed for tractor PTO. You can set the engine on the sawyers side and have proper rotation, but if your milling alone you will have to walk around the engine. If you can choose a diesel with a variable speed governor not just a limiting speed one you will be much better off. Somewhere on the internet I have seen Belsaw manual free to read. Frank C.
Bandmiller2,
Yes, I have the manual and any other info I could about setting up this mill reprinted snd put into a binder to help me get it right the first time, so I understand how it should be assembled.
As for the rotation of the engine vs blade, I have read and seen video where the use a rear axle diff to change the rotation. I'm thinking that locking the spider gears would be best. Still thinking about using the oem brakes to stop the shaft rotation when I don't want it to move.
Lots of things to work out as the time comes. Right now I'm trying to focus on the frame. 6 X 12 inch 3/8 thick box tubing. For a total of 66 ft of frame. I should be able to cut up to 24 plus
I've got a '92 timberking M-14 that came on steel from the factory. The track on those is 3/16x10" C channel. Tube should be more rigid and better, mine is lighter than I like. I'd like to see how you do the husk bearing and feed area, I need to get over and pick up an older one that I think will be parts for mine, but you never know.
Tim I have a soft spot for the Belsaw mills, I built my first circular mill back in the early 80's before computers and this forum all I had was a copy of the Belsaw instructions. I copied a lot of Belsaw stuff just made it heavier. Really pay attention when they tell you about log and cant turning, not flipping them on the mill, but using flip up log turners. The tiny rollers under the carriage are sensitive to pounding and shock. Two of my friends have Belsaws one of them just has it sitting on RR ties for a foundation and has no problems, but a good foundation is mo better. Frank C.
I have a question that I have never seen asked anywhere. what type of bearings are on the arbor i am guessing it is different with different vintages of mills and are replacements easily available.
Happy Hunting
archie
Archie, the ones I've seen use a two bolt common flange type bearings, if I recall 1 3/4". The older Belsaws used a wooden bed you made by nailing together 2x10" planks. The flange type bearings were bolted to the side of those planks. Frank C.
This is the outboard bearing and lead adjustment on mine,
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/m14brg.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1483156436)
I keep a spare feed drive belt wired up inside the frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/m14belt.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1483156584)
Don P,
That is what i am talking about. Those are the housings I am wondering if anyone has had to replace the bearings and if they were readily available.
Thank you
archie
Looks like a standard press in bearing that can be had from any bearing store.
It is just a garden variety bearing. Looks like I'm going to have fun when that goes. If that adjustment plate were to crack or fail I don't think it would be too hard to weld up something. Do notice the top of the bearing housing figures into your track height in relation to your cutting height. You need a little room for leveling the shaft. Keep all that as low as possible so the track can pass over closer to the arbor.
Quote from: bandmiller2 on December 30, 2016, 08:34:34 PM
Archie, the ones I've seen use a two bolt common flange type bearings, if I recall 1 3/4". The older Belsaws used a wooden bed you made by nailing together 2x10" planks. The flange type bearings were bolted to the side of those planks. Frank C.
Their is a free PDF of the M 14 on this site "http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=1050" although it is the wood frame foundation the layout measurements would be the same for a metal base along with the part number used. If my memory serves me right the bearing flips 90 degrees and comes out two slots on the back side of the flange.
Well even with some rain this past week I did make some progress. I fixed the hydraulic leak on the old Dresser TD 7 dozer, and made several repairs to Dad's boom truck. The dozer was needed to help level out the ground for the mill to sit on and the boom truck was needed to off load the steel. We still have some work to do on the boom truck but a few new relays should help it out next week. I had loaded most of the smaller pieces of steel with my tractor but the bigger ones will have to be loaded with the boom truck to move them here to my place. The steel has been over at a friend's farm for several years now. I bought it as scrap metal about 10 years ago and didn't have a place to store it. So, now that I have a need for it I have to move it 3 miles to get it home.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170103_173136.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1483483758)
Got the first load of steel. Now if it will dry out again, maybe I can get it unloaded.
We did need the rain but it makes it hard to get outside projects done. Oh well I just have to wait for it to dry up.
Sweet, that oughta work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170204_152518.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1486921333)
Got a few more loads of steel unloaded this past weekend.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170204_144701.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1486921391)
I think we have a good start now.
nice load of steel. be nice to see the progress. thanks.
Goin'ta be the stoutest belsaw M-14 ever!
I mean.
That pile makes me... green.
Quote from: Dieseltim on December 26, 2016, 07:45:27 AM
Bandmiller2,
As for the rotation of the engine vs blade, I have read and seen video where the use a rear axle diff to change the rotation. I'm thinking that locking the spider gears would be best. Still thinking about using the oem brakes to stop the shaft rotation when I don't want it to move.
I haven't read the entire thread so maybe someone already pointed this out but, you can't weld the spider gears, all that would do is make it a solid axle. If you want to use the rearend as a reverser you you have to lock up the drive shaft or carrier. That way the spider gears can reverse the rotation from one side of the rearend to the other side.
Or you could mount a brake on the drive shaft to use a clutch to engage and disengage one side of the rearend from the other. But that only works if you have a brake or enough load on the side you want to disengage.
Joe, not my post about welding spider gears, I don't do that. I have on occasion locked one side axle which, as you stated, is the proper way. There are so many things that can be done with a differential, I have seen dandy log loaders using one side brake as a clutch. Frank C.
I take the smaller ones out of old garden tractors to use as
steering reverses.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Shaft_reversing~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1487284246)
Simple turn the rear end over and you reverse the rotation lock up the spiders cut one axel off and you have a angle drive .
Gearbox you are right on. That is exactly what I'm planning to do. Once the axle is locked I will see which side rotates in the direction I want, then connect that up to the end of the arbor on the mill. The rear axle rotates both sides forward, so if you flip the axle housing over then they both rotate the other direction. What was up, is now down so to speak. Lol
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170311_085215.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1489286842)s the weather is getting better and the fact that it was a full moon last night, I got more done than I usually do.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170311_114754.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1489267370) borrowed a miller bobcat welder/ generator from a buddy of mine this afternoon, so if the weather will clear off again, I'll start welding the frame together.
Good to see some progress! That steel looks to be quite strong.
Yes, Darrel. It is 6x 12" 3/8 thick. Each beam is close to 2000 lbs. Its all my tractor can do to pickup one beam. Good thing we have a boom truck that can pickup 11,000 lbs and the dozer. Once it is all welded together it will be 66 ft long. What you see so far is only half of the length.
Just reading and thinking . 3.90 gears should work if you turn the engine 2000 it will be 512 RPM . 3.73 would be 536 RPM . 3.55 =563 RPM . 3.23 = 619 RPM.
Ok thanks Gearbox. I wonder what rear axle ratio came in a Mercedes 5cylinder turbo diesel D300 with an automatic transmission. I guess I'll have to do some research. I'm thinking they like to run in the higher rpm compared to a truck engine like a 4BT. Higher rpm might be smoother but might burn more fuel.
If you have the truck see how far it is around the tire and devide by 5280 ft. times 60 to get rpm's at 60 mph . If the engine has a overdrive you will need to figure in direct . I think I would shoot for 550 or 560 RPM at the saw to give you a little pull down to get full fuel and turbo spool .
Ok according to the Mercedes sites, an 83 300d has a rear ratio of 3.46 . I don't think the automatic transmission had overdrive back then but even if it does I can probably lock it out.
That figures out to 576 at 2000 . I think they ran those a lot faster (3000 ?) . Can you use cruise for speed set . If you need more power just shift down 1 gear . Still should run 60 MPH .
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170320_195508.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490056673)
Got a lot done this weekend.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170319_193540.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490056827)
Coming along a little more each day.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170321_191021.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490143544)
I think that should be straight enough.
Looks nice and straight to me.
I've been thinking of welding up a "crane" over the carriage at the infeed end. a post with an overhead arm that I can hang a winch from, the cable would have a hook from a cant hook so it can be wrapped around big logs to flip them. That's looking heck for stout.
Forgive me for saying this but its a lot of overkill for a light duty Belsaw. You could mount a heavy mill on that base. Frank C.
Yes Bandmiller2,
It is overkill for most any sawmill, but I already had the steel.... so why not.
I am thinking I would like to put a 60 " blade on it so I'll see how large diameter I can saw with what I have for a while. Then maybe upgrade it later.
Be careful putting a large saw on a belsaw unless you change to a bigger mandrel {ARBOR}. Watch the video on the amish sawing a big log .
Thanks Gearbox,
If and when I upgrade to a bigger blade, I was planning to upgrade the arbor to 2-3" shaft.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170322_111819.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490321171)
Probably not my best welds, but no one is x-raying these so I think they will be just fine for a sawmill frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170322_111808.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490321158)
Think that these welds are good enough? Two passes should be good.
That must be wire . Not enough puddle marks for stick .
Yea... Looks like mig...
Can't be mine, I don't see a lost chicken looking at a pile in envy :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170325_113410.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490495811)
I went on Friday and picked up the steel that I needed to make the track with for the carriage to ride on. 1 x 1 angle x 1/4 thick , and 2 x 3 angle x 1/4 thick.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170325_180613.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490495623)
Got some help from my Dad today, so we got lots done. Several of the cross braces installed. The main frame is now done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170325_113429.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490495717)
Hoping to use this Mercedes 5cylinder turbo diesel engine. The OM 617 engines were known to be pretty good, and really reliable.
Can't wait to see this in operation. I've got a circular on my wish to do list :laugh:
Ok you may have to find a belt driven governor off a combine or some kind of picker . The older Gleaner ran a chevy v8 with a belt driven governor . the linkage may be a pain but with your welding skills you can do it .
Do you plan to run in first gear to get the desired RPM? I have been wanting to use a Cummins auto I have but havent figured it out yet.
Buggutz,
I do plan to try and run the auto transmission, but I'm hoping to run it in second gear so as to keep the rpm of the engine around 2600-3000. To stay more in the power/torque band of this engine. By using the OEM rear diff I have from the car. I will have a 3.46 : 1 reduction.
So, if I'm shooting for a blade speed of 540 RPM, then 3rd gear might be too slow for the engine, and 1st might have the engine turning too fast. I really will not know till I have it all together.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170330_123744.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490896010)
Ok, Gearbox. How about this one? Got it from a friend that removed it from a Ford 300 that was on a de-iceing truck from the airport. It is a Hoof products unit. I think it should work for what I need.
That's the one . You will need to keep it full of oil . Like I said you will figure out the linkage . Good to have collector friends .
Same governor I run. Still dont quite have it keeping me in good power but it mounts up easy.
Ok can anyone tell me which way is up? On this govenor. I see the oil fill and drain. But the oil volume will be different depending on how it is mounted. The only thing I have found is the it requires engine oil. The manual says to use engine oil but nothing heavier than 20 weigh.
Like in the pic the levers go up .
http://www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel/pdf/ford/194-205%20Governors.pdf
Not sure if they will let me post a link to an old site about these belt drive governors. But if it's not allowed I will be happy to sent it by pm. It is a very good pdf about how to install and adjust them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170407_185108.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1491620912)
So, do you think 6ft wide and 3ft deep is big enough for a sawdust removal pit?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170408_175059.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1491694642)
Ok got the frame moved into place, and it is only out of level about 1 1/2" from end to end and 1" side to side. Not bad for leveling with a dozer and just eyeballing it. I put the laser level on it just for fun. Once I have the feet on the legs, I'll get it dead on. I'm adding 6x12 tubing for it to sit on so it will have a nice big footprint.
Doin good! 30 years ago, I saw so many mills pulled apart and sold for scrap or just let sit and rust. It is good to see them being rebuilt and put back in service
Darrel,
Funny thing is if this one had of had a steel frame, I'm pretty sure that it would have been sold for scrap metal by my buddy's step son to pay for more pot. But it was a wood frame and was rotten where it was not under the shed that only covered the husk. So, even though he died 12 years ago, I'm still rebuilding it as a tribute to him. With several of my own upgrades. Lol
Hopefully it will last my lifetime and maybe even get moved and rebuilt again after I'm gone. Lol
When I was a little kid, my dad built a mill on a wooden frame. I have no idea where it might be today, but man I'd love to have it. I always think of Dad while sawing. I guess you could say that every board I saw is a tribute to him.
And that frame you're building should last several lifetimes.
Does that old MB have a lock up torque converter? It may not lock up in second gear and that would generate a lot of heat. I had a old 240 and I remember the transmission was "mushy".
Be interesting to see how it works. Looks like a great project.
No I don't think the auto has a lock up converter. But, it ran that way in the car for many years. Lots of these 300 D are still on the road. I'll see what happens when I get there.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170410_192254.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1491876630)
Progress report. Got the feet under the legs on both ends. So, now to get it centered over the sawdust pit and leveled. Then I can start to lay the tracks.
Would anyone happen to know what color Belsaw painted these when they were new? What little paint that is left looks like a burnt orange color. I thought it would be nice to give it a fresh coat of paint that is all one matching color with maybe a few accent colors to match. I don't want to paint it black as the summers here in Ga. get close to 100 f sometimes. And, it might be a year or more before it has a roof over head to protect both of us from the heat. Lol
I thought they were red but not sure . let others weigh in. What ever you decide to paint it will be yours and will look good .
My timberking M-14 is red, the belsaw has been blasted and somewhat repainted in red, the tag has some original red highlights on it. I don't think you'd be wrong in red.
I remember one of Noble's funny stories about some neighbors who hooked up an automatic to their mill and ran it in drive. They thought it was doing great when it would downshift in cut :D.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170412_082354.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492029350)
Well guys it looks like this one was a Kubota orange color. What do you think?
Basically this orange primer color thats on my mill,it had always been under cover most of its life untill i got it a few years ago.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pbase.com%2Floggah%2Fimage%2F155743630%2Foriginal.jpg&hash=64db7b39882b37c6c1a1a21d049b74da5de80b39)
Wow looks great. I re-read your build thread just last night.
So, orange apparently was used on them at one time. Good to know. I was leaning to Kubota orange as I already have a Kubota tractor. Lol
Sure wish I had the longer carriage I only have a 10 ft one for now. I'm hoping to get a second one that I can link together with mine when I need to saw longer logs.
That looks like pallet racking orange.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170412_200500.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492043541)
Poor old frame is just about to fall apart.
Tim, I was wondering how you will run the cable with those full height cross members. I think you will have to use two pulleys at each end, one above the other so you can clear those cross members.
Trapper,
I plan to use a trailer axle for the hubs and install rims for pulleys.
Keep up the good work, I'm getting plenty of ideas here. Thanks
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Anyone else ever thought about modifying the log dogs to get a bigger log under them? As i measured from the point down I only had 20" , but if you turn the dogs over you can gain almost 7 more inches. So, just cut a few teeth in the top side and put a removable pin in the backside, and now if I ever need it I'll pull them out and flip them over and have an extra 6+ inches of space under the dog, for those bigger ones.
Now when you get the bigger saw blade, you'll be all set.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170418_195954.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492564102)
Ok paint colors have been selected. Orange with black for details. Got to love Rustolium.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170420_195842.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492820418)
Got most of the carriage painted. I don't really think it will stay that way long once I start putting logs on it, but it should keep it from rusting more.
That heavy frame almost makes the carriage look insignificant.
Well not really any pics of today's progress, spent most all day with a laser level and a shovel. In the end, I think it is within 1/4" from one end to the other. At 66ft long I think this is pretty good. 8)
Tim, whats really important is front to rear track as any inconsistency would cause the log to shift slightly and rub the saw plate. Keep up the good work mate. Frank C.
Frank,
I'll see what it looks like tomorrow. We have had rain all day today. Maybe 1-2 inches. If it's going to settle any it should have by then. I'm estimating that this thing is almost 8000 lbs. Each of the 4 parts is about all my Kubota tractor wanted to pick up. I know she is starting to get old but it was rated at 2000 lb lift on the front bucket and curl of 2800 lbs. I also know that our bucket truck is rated at 11000 lbs right at the truck, but it will not lift the whole frame.
So, if weight matters much in this project. I should be good. Lol
I had it level at all 6 places, meaning both ends and the middle of both rails with my laser level. It was beeping at all 6 points saying they were the same.
We tampered all the pads before setting it with the boom truck. Then checked it with the laser and moved it off the pads to adjust it till I was happy that all 6 places were as close as we could get them.
All 6 feet are welded to the legs. Each foot is 12" wide, with the total of 40 square foot for this beast to sit on. That comes out to about 200 psf. 8)
Another job over engineered again. :P
Tim, I am thinking that sturdy frame will simplify any leveling or plumbing issues. How are you going to mount the track, directly on your frame with shims or with some kind of rail system?
I was planning to pull a string from one end to the other and see how flat it really is, then if I don't need much for shims I will weld it right to the top of the frame.
I keep reminding myself that this was originally just a wooden frame that moved every time the humidity and temperature changed.
Tim, I am curious how your system will work over time as I was thinking of a similar system. You probably don't have much frost in Georgia but you have rain and you are not on piers. Probably work fine with the low ground pressure and the strength of the frame. If it settles it will probably settle as a unit.
Trapper,
I'm planning to cover the feet with red clay dirt after a few months of setting, just to make sure it doesn't move. But, I can tell you that the frame is so stiff, that from side to side it will lift a leg before it twist.
The only way it seems to have any give is from end to end, it did have some sag in the middle before I leveled it.
As far as frost and freezing is concerned, in Ga. where we are, we have a 6" rule here. Most winters we only get a heavy frost. Only about every 10 years will we get a hard freeze. Same for snow.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170429_075111.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493478970)
Making progress. Getting everything fitted up and working out any problems.
Looks like it is getting close to being functional, not to mention that there also is a whole lot of cool factor going on there.
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Ok, got the bearings for the main arbor mounted.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170430_182200.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493599451)
Ok, finally found my missing link. I have been looking every where for chain to use for sawdust removal.
Quote from: Dieseltim on April 30, 2017, 08:43:16 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170430_182347.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493599239)
Ok, got the bearings for the main arbor mounted.
Seeing this picture answers a question I've had for a while. Cleaning out my Father-in-laws barn after he passed, I found a shaft with a couple of bearings on it and what looked to be an arbor nut on one end. I thought it might be for a small sawmill such as this and now I know that it is.
Just a few more parts and I'll have me a circle mill. ;D
Darrel,
If you think that it is a Belsaw, then it should be 1 3/4" shaft and 1 3/8 arbor with left hand threads. If that is what you have then yes it is the main shaft for a Belsaw.
Right hand thread, so not a belsaw.
Just a note, Belsaw did make a few left hand mills along the way.
If I recall cordwood, alias buzzsaws, used a saw with a 1 3/8 inch hole that arbor might have been for bucking up stove wood. Frank C.
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Ok so I found a bigger blade.
Quote from: Dieseltim on April 30, 2017, 08:43:16 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41608/20170430_182347.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493599239)
Ok, got the bearings for the main arbor mounted.
Tim, it might just be
my rust phobia, but I see saw dust filling your frame tube at the top cuts necessary to mount the arbor/bearings. Rain will leave a soggy mess in there for a long time. I realize it's 3/8" wall but of all the places you don't want to have to patch up.........
You really had a vision with this project, from collecting the steel years ago, to your other details that you obviously given a lot of thought, my hat's off to you! Thanks for posting your mill build!
Good point, I had not talked about the drain holes I will be adding to the bottom side of the frame rails, and I will have to build covers to go over the bearings and arbor where it passes thru the frame.
Hopefully I will get a shed over it by next year. That should keep the rain off of it and the heat of the sun off of me. Lol
Thanks for the compliments.
Actually, I've heard that direct sunlight on the blade can have a bad effect on sawing with a circle mill.
Might want to rig up some type of awning to shelter the saw until you build the permanent roof.
Nice job on the restoration.
Herb
Direct sunlight will absolutely heat the blade. On a sunny summer day, I'm okay milling until about 2 pm when the sun becomes too direct. I have an umbrella over the blade, but what I really need is a shed for that sawmill! - Jason
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It took most of my free time at work for this week to make it, but it looks like the coupling is going to work great.
Hey, if you're not careful, you'll be sawin' logs soon! :)
I can only hope so. Some days it just seems like I don't get much done. This week has been busy but not a lot of sawmill progress.
Good flange Tim, when ever I find worn out sprockets, especially ones with taperlock, I save them to join shafts. Sometimes if I get fancy I'll even machine off the worn teeth. Frank C.
I did not have a taper lock, so I made it from solid 3" round stock and a piece of 1/4" plate. Cutting the keyway on the inside was the hardest part of it. This will bolt to the rearend hub where the car's wheel used to be mounted.
Quote from: Dieseltim on May 06, 2017, 08:18:56 AM
I did not have a taper lock, so I made it from solid 3" round stock and a piece of 1/4" plate. Cutting the keyway on the inside was the hardest part of it. This will bolt to the rearend hub where the car's wheel used to be mounted.
A broach is the easy way to make key ways...
Yes I did broach it. It was a first for me. Always learning new things.
Quote from: Dieseltim on May 06, 2017, 08:44:40 AM
Yes I did broach it. It was a first for me. Always learning new things.
Did you use a press broach?
What gave you problems ?
I started to do it with an arbor press but it was too tall at 8" long. So, I did it in a hydraulic press. It worked much better after I cut it in half to 4".
Quote from: Dieseltim on May 06, 2017, 11:31:59 AM
I started to do it with an arbor press but it was too tall at 8" long. So, I did it in a hydraulic press. It worked much better after I cut it in half to 4".
The cutting arbor was 8 feet long?
Most are around 16-24 inches.
Lol. No the part was 8 inches long.
Another thing to remember Tractor Supply has a section of keyed hubs with sprockets and sheves to weld together, can save a lot of time. Frank C.
Frank,
I looked there first, but the biggest thing my tractor supply has is only 1 1/2". If they would have had a 1 3/4" coupling for a tractor, I would have had this thing sawing wood from my 36 hp Kubota tractor a long time ago. Then I would have had to upgrade it to the bigger 5 cylinder diesel, once I ran out of pine to cut. Lol
We have millions of acres of pines in Ga.