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Woodmizer LT weights of pieces and assembly

Started by gemniii, October 11, 2009, 10:56:01 AM

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gemniii

I've about decided on a Ripsaw for my portability purposes.  However reading the online stuff about the Woodmizer LT10 I can only find the weight of the base package,
QuoteWeight (with heaviest power options)
   559 lbs. (253kg)
.

I'm planning on tractoring, with my 23hp tractor, stuff to the site and from the site, so I can get 560lbs moved.  I can't pick up 560lbs, heck with my back I do good to move 150lbs about.

The thought process is I tractor the stuff in about 100 meters, set up a small canopy, set up the mill, fell and process a dozen ot two small trees <20"DBH, pack up and move down another 100 meters, repeat.

But, with the WM LT10:
What does it break down to in large pieces?  as the "Stores Easily in Your Garage" picture shows.
How easy is it to separate say the engine from the saw head, and reassemble?
Can it easily be a 1 person job setting it up?
What is the weight of the individual large pieces?

Are there other mill options?

Thanks.

schmism

you might consider a qazi trailer setup.

i assume your going to attach the lightweight frame rails to some beams or RR rail etc.

then simply pick up one end with a farm jack (aka high lift)  and slide a trailer axle under it and strap it on, bolt it down whatever.

tow 100yrds down the yard pull axle off set it on the ground and your good to go.  moving the head to postion ontop of the axle should limit the amount of bending and twisting  (again assuming you build some sort of "base" for the lightweight bed rails)

this limits the amount of time you spend taring it down and reassembling it.
039 Stihl 010AV  NH TC33D FEL, with toys

gemniii

Thanks
But, with the WM LT10:
What does it break down to in large pieces?  as the "Stores Easily in Your Garage" picture shows.
How easy is it to separate say the engine from the saw head, and reassemble?
Can it easily be a 1 person job setting it up?
What is the weight of the individual large pieces?

DouginUtah

Gemniii,

I don't know if you are open to options other than the LT10, or if your budget would allow it, but as close as you are to Don K. you might want to consider his used LT15 instead of the LT10. He has dropped the price down to $5000 so that has to be a good deal.
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

tyb525

If I were you, I would get an LT10 (LT15 is better), and make a rigid base for it, with big beams on the bottom that you can drag it around on. It's real easy to move in one piece with a tractor, as long as you have that rigid base so you don't have a lot of leveling do when you move it.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

gemniii

Thanks for all the helpul suggestions
So apparently no one knows
With the WM LT10:
What does it break down to in large pieces?  as the "Stores Easily in Your Garage" picture shows.
How easy is it to separate say the engine from the saw head, and reassemble?
Can it easily be a 1 person job setting it up?
What is the weight of the individual large pieces?

amberwood

gemniii. The Lt10 doe break down into bed sections and the head for storage/transport just like in the pictures, but this requires that the feed system be partially disassembled. Not something you want to do if there is a better option. I woud recommend fitting it to a rigid frame to move it.

DTR
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gemniii

Quote from: amberwood on October 12, 2009, 07:08:40 AM
gemniii. The Lt10 doe break down into bed sections and the head for storage/transport just like in the pictures, but this requires that the feed system be partially disassembled. Not something you want to do if there is a better option. I woud recommend fitting it to a rigid frame to move it.

DTR
THANK YOU!
I sincerely appreciate the actual information.  There is so much sawdust on this forum and so little lumber produced.

James P.

IMO call WM and ask them. I doubt anyone has actually taken one a part and weighed the pieces other than WM .

MartyParsons

The sales picture shows the saw head dissembled from the frame. A normal person would not be able to carry the saw head to location. I would say it would weigh about 450#. The bed frame assembly could be carried by two normal persons. This would be with the wood fixed to the frame. I would say it would weigh about 200#. I am guessing I never used a scale.  ;) There would be some items that would need to be unhooked. We use a fork lift to load and unload the mill at shows and to move around the shop. Do you have forks on your tractor? You will need to hold the saw head during travel. The LT15 has locking pins to secure the saw head to the frame. The LT10 does not, we use the back supports and lower the saw head on the longest one and tie the head against the support. We make the wood frame stronger at one end to help when lifted with the forks. I have a picture some where. I will see if I can post a copy.

"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

schmism

wow ive been called a lot of things over years on boards.... but sawdust was a first!   i like it!  ;)
039 Stihl 010AV  NH TC33D FEL, with toys

Mikey H

Hey, we had a customer rig up a way to haul an LT10 around his farm.  Don't try it without a tractor.  I've seen large men strain important body parts trying to lift the LT10 head.  It weighs over 350 lbs.  The engine on a 10 built after 12/08 can be put on and taken off very easily.  Earlier versions aren't as easy to on/off. The G7 engine alone weighs 44 lbs. The G10 weighs 67 lbs.

Anyway, he put 4 by 6 poplar runners under the full length of the bed. Then he put 1 1/2" galvanized pipe with flanges on both ends and attached those cross-wise to the 4 by 6's. 4 of 'em.  ONe at each end, the other two closer to the middle. Here's a photo of what I mean. 


Then he put the head near the pipe he was going to pick up with the tractor hyd hitch.  Bolted the head in place to the 4 by 6's.  Moved the thing around like a sled.  Make sense?  Make sure you brace the 4 by 6's somehow. If you don't, they'll cave in on you when you turn.
Mike Hanlon
I work for Wood-Mizer in the Sales Department.  I am the Account Manager for 8 of our 15 US locations and I oversee the Christian Missions equipment discounts and donations.
mhanlon@woodmizer.com

Mikey H

I forgot one important detail that you probably already knew.  The LT10 bed has holes in the bottom of the bed section to allow you to lag bolt it to the 4 by 6 runners. 





Here's a photo/sketch of what I mean:





I guarantee you don't want to try to pick this mill up by yourself. Turn it into a sled your tractor can pull.
Mike Hanlon
I work for Wood-Mizer in the Sales Department.  I am the Account Manager for 8 of our 15 US locations and I oversee the Christian Missions equipment discounts and donations.
mhanlon@woodmizer.com

tyb525

The LT10 does have holes on the head and bed that line up, and I was supplied two bolts which can be put in these holes to lock the head at the end of the bed.

I would highly recommend a rigid sled type frame under the mill, I had to put my mill together myself with the help of a tractor. The bed by itself isn't too bad, but there is no way I could have lifted the head, especially with the 10hp motor on, and probably still couldn't with it off.

Right now my mill has a semi-sled frame, that is, the beams under it are tapered on both ends so they don't drag. My mill is set up pretty much permanently for the time being. I set it on 6 black locust 3x8's as wide as the mill that I set on compacted gravel and sand, and held firm with spikes. I leveled the mill, and used similar heavy spikes to "toe-nail" it to the foundation planks - this keeps it from sliding to the side when turning logs and cants. Believe me, if your mill is on smooth concrete, it will slide the other side of the slab as you turn the logs, and you won't notice it cause it is so slow and gradual. That is the reason for bolting it or somehow keeping it from sliding. I suppose that wouldn't be a problem if it's on a sled in the woods.

Just make sure, if you decide to go with the sled, that it is plenty rigid, and you will still want to have it supported pretty much all around after you move it into the woods, because a big log will flex it out of level and square, even with big beams for runners.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

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