questions

[Wade]

Hey Everybody,
 I just ordered a stihl 660 today 8). I'm wondering if I
should have got an 880 (it's not too late)? I have turned down a number of logs because of their size and no way to trim/split them. I also was thinking of using it to slab some of the bigguns. Will I be ok with the 660 or should I get the 880?The price difference isn't a factor. I just want to buy once.
 Also, I've never used a saw this big. What should I look out for? I'm quite familiar with kick-back on a table or circular saw :-[,but I'm a little confused about kick-back on a chainsaw. Could some one fill me in please? Thanks

[Kevin]

Hi Wade;
Here's a good link on kick back ...
http://www.oregonchain.com/precautions.htm
For felling large trees and general milling I would opt for the 066.
For felling huge trees and heavy milling the 088.

[Frickman]

Wade,
Kickback occurs when the top quadrant of the bar nose contacts a solid object, wood, tire, whatever. The spinning chain forces the bar and thence the saw up and back, hence the term kickback. If you're not familiar with kickback on a chain saw, stay away from the 880 for now. It's got too much power for an inexperienced user. I'm not knocking you, that's just the way it is. Heck, I won't even run an 880 unless you froced me, and I've been running saws a long time.

I assume you're ripping logs to break them down to a managable size. If you are careful the 880 will do the job alot faster, just be careful. For crosscutting the 660 will cut anything you put it into, and will be easier to handle.

[Wade]

Thanks guy's
 Kevin I'll check out that link. I won't be felling any trees
at the present time. I want to do what frickman said and rip the big ones to a manageable size. After using only 16-18" homeowners saws I've never had one kick-back at me. I'm sure it's possible with the smaller ones just not as common due to lack of power.
Frickman, thats kind of how I thought it happened. I will make sure I become totally familiar with it before I jump into any major cutting. Again I only want to buy once .
So....what would you do? :-/ :-/

[Stan]

If you equip your saw with an Alaskan or similar mill there won't be much chance of kick back, as the nose of the saw cannot contact the wood. It is enclosed in the framework with a guard around it. I'm using an 066 for light duty milling, with a 24" Alaskan mill. I don't think I need any more power and would imagine for taking slabs off a log that too big for your mill you wouldn't either. Now splitting or quartering would put a lot more teeth in the wood at the same time, requireing more power.  :P

[Preston]

We use an 066 for ripping and have no problem! A good sharp chain and a little mod. done to the saw and it works well! I have used the 088 in Alaska for ripping 5 to 9 foot diameter logs with a 60" bar and let me tell you its allot of saw for someone experienced! I would go with 660 you'll be happy!

[Wade]

Thank's Guys
I think I will go with the 66. Supposed to
be here today 8) 8).

[Hunter]

Wade,
 Please consider the proper safety equipment( chaps,glasses and hearing protection)
As a good investment if you dont already own it.
With that 066 you have a great saw with lots of power.
Hunter

[rahtreelimbs]

Do yourself a favor and open-up/dual port the muffler. MS660's are notorious for having very restricted mufflers!

[Frickman]

Good choice Wade. I got a question though. Why did you have to order a 660? I would think that every dealer should stock at least one. Even in urban areas tree trimmers use them on big yard trees.

[Wade]

Frickman,
I went to a couple of places. One said he does'nt stock
bigger than 440 (460?), and the other was out of stock. He was putting in an order for more and said they would be in today but they didn't show :(. Said mid-week next.
 Hunter, I have everything but the chaps. I will look into them.
 Rahtree, I'll look into that after I break it in.
 Thanks for the replys.