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1/2" basswood for paneling

Started by coalsmok, October 25, 2014, 09:32:24 PM

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coalsmok

How long do I need to let this dry outside before I bring it it in and start getting it aclimated to the house?  ??? 

Den Socling

It really depends on how well you sticker it and where you stack it. However, basswood does dry fast. This is just a guess but I would say you only need a few weeks of air drying. Also, you need to consider that the wood could move after installation with the seasons. I've made a lot of tongue & groove v-joint. That's a forgiving design.

coalsmok

It's stickered on 2' centers and in a spot with plenty of air flow from a natural breeze. Should be good by the time I have time to deal with it then. I was planning on ship lapping it. I am afraid it will be to thin at 1/2" to tounge and groove.

red oaks lumber

if your ship lapping why not just do a square edge and put a small bevel to mimic t& g, alot less work than s.l.  unless your using a moulder. just my opinion  :)
the experts think i do things wrong
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beenthere

For paneling stock, I'd sticker closer than 2'.
No less than 18" and would prefer to go 12" for helping to keep the boards straight as possible. Much less waste is likely when running it to panel dimensions with more support while drying.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

YellowHammer

Basswood dries fast, especially boards that thin, but does get sticker stain.  Sounds like you've got it stacked in a good place, but after the first week, and occasionally after that, I would hammer a few of the stickers over to shift their position so I could visually check to make sure there is no stain forming under them.
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

pineywoods

I have a set of carbide router bits that will tongue and groove 1/2 inch boards quite nicely. Got them from MLCS. They are actually tongue and V groove for 3/4 stock, but using just the tongue and groove part on 1/2 inch stock works well
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
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Cedarman

If you do go straight edge, paint your walls black.  If the wood does shrink, black will look like shadow, white from drywall will look terrible.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

coalsmok

No drywall behind this ;). Its going straight onto the studs, I'm not good with drywall ;D.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Put a layer of tar paper over the studs before installing the paneling.

barbender

Quote from: pineywoods on October 28, 2014, 10:14:12 AM
I have a set of carbide router bits that will tongue and groove 1/2 inch boards quite nicely. Got them from MLCS. They are actually tongue and V groove for 3/4 stock, but using just the tongue and groove part on 1/2 inch stock works well

I have a set of those too. They work well.
Too many irons in the fire

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