New (to me) jointer

tyb525 · February 11, 2011, 02:27:33 PM

I found a good deal on CL, it's a Delta Milwaukee 6". Not sure of the model, the tag is gone.

The guy just finished using it for all the trimand paneling in his new house and didn't need it anymore. He just put a newer 1hp motor on it. It has the adjustable outfeed table, so that should be real nice for eliminating snipe. Have yet to try it, but I've turned it on and it runs fine. He said he ran a lot of hickory and walnut across it and it had plenty of power. I have a 2 hp 220v motor if I need it though ;)

A jointer was the last "must-have" tool I needed, now I have "everything" I need :

Holmes · February 11, 2011, 02:35:14 PM

That is a great find tyb525. Nice old cast iron jointer. It will serve you well. Now that you have everything that you need you can start on the list of everything you want.. Holmes

pineywoods · February 11, 2011, 03:17:12 PM

Ty, I have it's twin. I salvaged mine from the ashes of a building that burned to the ground. New motor and new bearings and it's still running. I didn't know who made it, all the tags burned off. The thing is built like a tank. Should serve you well

pasbuild · February 11, 2011, 04:04:03 PM

A jointer was the last "must-have" tool I needed, now I have "everything" I need

:D :D :D :D

submarinesailor · February 11, 2011, 04:09:47 PM

Quote from: tyb525 on February 11, 2011, 02:27:33 PM
A jointer was the last "must-have" tool I needed, now I have "everything" I need :

No you don't. ??? ??? ??? You just think you do ..........at this time anyways. :

:

;D ;D ;D

Bruce

ely · February 11, 2011, 04:24:08 PM

you dont have everything, unless the guard off that thing is laying in pickup bed.
if not you best find one.
i've got a couple of that ones ugly sisters.

metalspinner · February 11, 2011, 04:28:21 PM

Ditto on that guard. I wouldn't think of passing a board over an unguarded jointer.

A jointer is the first step in machining a perfect board. You'll not regret buying it.

Norm · February 11, 2011, 04:53:37 PM

Nice find Ty.

Dave Shepard · February 11, 2011, 05:35:35 PM

Cool! It looks like you can set it up to cut ship lap. Our Boice and Crane at work doesn't have that option, so we have to cut it on the table saw, a real pain.

SwampDonkey · February 11, 2011, 05:45:24 PM

I've got a newer Delta, well it's about 20 years old now, and it's not much different other than a lighter fence and a blade guard. ;) I've edged a lot of rough sawn boards and had to edge cupped ones to when first planed flat.

Busy Beaver Lumber · February 11, 2011, 06:39:22 PM

Nice looking jointer Ty, but I agree, get a guard on that blade before you use it.

I did get a good laugh out of you saying that with buying this, you now have all the tools you need. I wish I had 50 cents for every time I thought that, but alas thousands of dollars of tool purchases later and I still manage to find some neat gadget of newly designed tool I just must have. The only difference is the price of the ones I do not have keeps going up and up. For example, now that I have the $4600 hydraulic dump trailer, a little voice in my head keeps saying a $10,000 used skid steer might be nice to go along with it to load it with.

isawlogs · February 11, 2011, 06:55:00 PM

Quote from: tyb525 on February 11, 2011, 02:27:33 PM
A jointer was the last "must-have" tool I needed, now I have "everything" I need :

Famous last words :

:D :D

SwampDonkey · February 11, 2011, 07:14:23 PM

Wait until you start having the wants for some finer hand tools like this beading tool. :D

PC-Urban-Sawyer · February 11, 2011, 08:13:11 PM

Amen on the guard. I saw my father lose two joints of his pinky and ring finger on his left hand while using a jointer after removing the guard.

And my own tablesaw accident taught me again how quickly things can go wrong.

Be Careful!

Herb

isawlogs · February 11, 2011, 08:55:24 PM

SD .. most of us have elactricaty and routers .. ;)

Dave Shepard · February 11, 2011, 09:03:23 PM

My router doesn't use electricity. I've got a Stanley 71 1/2, but I've been eyeing the Lie-Nielsen Large Router Plane, among other things. :D

tyb525 · February 11, 2011, 09:38:27 PM

Those last words were sarcasm ;)

The thing didn't come with a guard, and I don't see any place where one would be attached. I have push-pads for it to keep my fingers away, and I'll keep the cuts very light. It has a 3 knife head with 1/8" knives. I joined one face and edge of a honey locust board, about the hardest wood I have, and the motor didn't slow down at all, but the knives sure pounded. I'll be sharpening them and polishing/waxing the bed so the boards feed smoothly. A not-very-smooth tablesaw top was the cause of my incident with that table saw (the board didn't want to slide, my hand slipped off the jig) and I believe that is one of the most important safety features you can get, a very smooth table.

If it did come with a guard originally, I'll see if I can get one.

metalspinner · February 11, 2011, 10:40:03 PM

Here's a link to your jointer...

http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/delta-jointer-6-inch.html

You have a hole on the infeed table for the guard to slide into. If you cannot find one right away, it should be easy enough to make on for the time being.

Please be patient and get that guard in place. ;)

tyb525 · February 11, 2011, 10:46:10 PM

Ah, must've overlooked it ;) I'm sure I can come up with something from wood and a simple spring device.

beenthere · February 11, 2011, 11:18:41 PM

From the guard comments posted, I hope no one is getting a false sense of security from the guard.
It protects the blades from inadvertent contact with fingers and pieces of wood, and objects dropped on the sharp blades when the jointer isn't in use.

However, proper use of the jointer doesn't require the guard to be in position. And in some instances, can let the operator forget just where those rotating cutting blades are at (IMO).

What is necessary is never having fingers or hand parts over the rotating blades such that the piece can kick out leaving your fingers to drop into the blades. The proper push sticks and push pads help prevent this, as does the proper push of the piece ahead of and behind the blades. The guard itself doesn't help avoid this unsafe operation.

Eye protection is important PSE to wear.

tyb525 · February 11, 2011, 11:24:09 PM

bt, That was kinda how I was thinking, although the guard would give me more peace of mind in case I lost my balance for whatever reason while a board wasn't over the cutter and my hand ended up over/near the cutterhead.

I can't even think of trying to joint a board (especially face jointing) without push pads, it scares me just thinking of having my fingers that close to the cutterhead, guard or not.

logwalker · February 12, 2011, 12:07:22 AM

My old shop teacher drilled it into us...the jointer is the most dangerous power tool in the shop. Guard or no. That is all Ten Finger Joe has to say about that.

Larry · February 12, 2011, 07:35:46 AM

That's a great jointer, capable of doing anything a new shiny one does better. Best part...it was made in the USA and you kept your buying dollars right here.

Before you attempt to take the knives out use something to break the rust/corrosion on the jack screws. Ignition wrench set will be right to loosen the jack screw. Most of those machines took a 3/32" thick knife even though an 1/8" fits. The 3/32" allows more room for the wrench.

You can date your machine, find the correct owners manual, and possibly pick up a guard over on the OWWM site.

Happy jointing!

SwampDonkey · February 12, 2011, 08:06:24 AM

On mine Ty, it's shaped like a mailbox flag. It is pinned into a hole on the edge of the infeed table and is spring loaded.

It can save your hand from being bit if you have roll over or even if you trip on something under your feet and land on the router, that's a lot of blade wide open, worse than a meat grinder. On mine the ends of the work piece is where you might be bit while passing hand over the blade and the end kicks going in or rears passing by. It's not false securely in that it prevents being cut in others ways your not thinking of. ;)

Yes don't run your hands on the piece over the blades, if you have to than the piece is too short. Don't get complacent and know where your digits are at, at all times. It's easy to hurry and not think closely about what your doing, especially if you get to jointing a lot of material at a session. Gets repetitive, and the brain goes lazy. Some goes for any piece of equipment. ;)

SwampDonkey · February 12, 2011, 08:29:21 AM

Quote from: isawlogs on February 11, 2011, 08:55:24 PM
SD .. most of us have elactricaty and routers .. ;)

Marcel, this tool is better is some ways as you can make your own profile if you want (which are cheaper than bits) and it's handy if you want to work in tight quarters that a router can't work. A beading or reeding router bit would cost about $30, about half of this tool cost. And you get no burn. I never saw a bit that never burnt wood no matter how good it was. ;) It's not meant for deep cuts either, an 1/8" or 3/16" max maybe. In my photo the blade is down way lower than it would be used. The little tip/point is all that goes in the wood. The shoulder of the blade has to be at least a 1/64" below the sole of the tool creating a slight angle offset from 90 degrees. Another handy tool is the profile scraper to take that burn off router bit cuts. ;)