lt40 super powerfeed problem

[cypresskayaksllc]

Cut some oak today. About 30 mins into cutting the reverse powerfeed stopped working. Forward works. Drum switch looks good. I think its the solenoid. There are four in the powerbox. I rapped on all of them and the reverse worked. I released the drum and tried reverse again and nothing. So thats why I think its the solenoid. Another problem I have is determining which solenoid is which. I cant find it in my parts or service manual. And those lazy dudes at WM take the weekend off.  :D  Thanks    -I have some pictures of the solenoids but I guess I probably dont need to post them.

[Buck]

Yeah those woodmizer guys are kinda one way about those weekends....dawgs.

[Bibbyman]

A voltage meter should be able to tell you if you're getting voltage to the solenoid and isolate the one in question.

If all else fails,  you could take the wire off of each solenoid in turn. 

Also, sometimes the drum switch contacts look fine but have lost a little spring and maybe not always making good contact. 

I think the WM guys answer service questions until noon.  Mary and I were in Indy last fall and a couple of guys were still working with customers until past 1:00.

[Magicman]

And those lazy dudes at WM take the weekend off.  :D 

I'm glad that you put that smilie after that remark.  Yes, it is the weekend, and yes, even they need a day off.  But, I would never classify any of the ones that I have dealt with as being lazy.

Simple VOM testing would determine which solenoid is bad, but when you talk with a technician Monday AM, they will tell you which one is bad, take your order, and UPS will deliver it Wednesday.

[Magic Smoke]

The forward and reverse functions use both solenoids on the LH side of the control box. You will notice that each solenoid has two sides to it, one side that has 2 large and 2 small studs (front side), and the other side that only has 2 large studs (back side). At rest, the back side is connected (closed) across the 2 studs and the front side is open (not connected), when the solenoid is energized, the back side opens and the front side closes.
In reverse, only the lower solenoid is energized; the motor uses the front side of the lower solenoid for ground and the back side of the upper one for +12V.
To check the contacts in the solenoids, often the "tap" test, while the key is on and the drum switch is in the reverse direction, can guide you to the correct solenoid (be careful, head may take off), however, you can also test them with a voltmeter. Assuming that the lower solenoid clicks when  the drum switch is activated, place the leads of your voltmeter across the 2 large posts on the front of the lower solenoid, while the key is on and the drum switch is in reverse, the meter should read near zero (less than 1V), if it reads several volts (up to battery voltage) then the solenoid is bad. Perform the same test on the back side of the top solenoid, again the voltmeter should read close to zero or the top solenoid is bad. Don't forget to have the key on and the drum switch in reverse while testing.
By placing the meter leads across the large terminals, you are looking at the voltage drop (voltage lost) across the terminals, ideally it should be zero.
Hope this helps.

[cypresskayaksllc]

And those lazy dudes at WM take the weekend off.  :D  

I'm glad that you put that smilie after that remark.  Yes, it is the weekend, and yes, even they need a day off.  But, I would never classify any of the ones that I have dealt with as being lazy.

Simple VOM testing would determine which solenoid is bad, but when you talk with a technician Monday AM, they will tell you which one is bad, take your order, and UPS will deliver it Wednesday.

Im sure Ive called WM more than Im worth.

Thanks for all the answers and Im going to try yalls suggestions today.

[cypresskayaksllc]

I tried your test magic smoke. Seems the lower solenoid failed the test. Strange thing happened when I was running the test. I tested the lower first and that read volts. Then I tested the top and the head jumped back. I might have contacted something with my leads. I was trying to hold the meter and reverse at the same time. I checked again and it read close to 0. Thanks for the help.

[Magic Smoke]

Interesting result when trying to test upper solenoid Cypress. You may have just jarred the lower solenoid a little when testing the top solenoid.
Inside the solenoid is a contact plate (looks like a big washer) that shorts across the appropriate 2 large terminals, often, it doesn't take much of a "tap" or "bump" to get a better connection and make the thing take off.
Bottom line: If you read voltage across the terminals when they should be shorted together, then the solenoid is bad. 

[cypresskayaksllc]

Just got off the phone with WM. Its so easy for them to make me look like an idiot. The plug that connects the tracks to the powerbox had come loose.

[Magic Smoke]

Just for my own sanity Cypress...if the problem was a connection at the power box plugs, then when reverse wasn't working, the solenoid must not have been clicking either...right?
Also, I didn't notice that you had a remote mill, when I mentioned in my earlier post that the solenoids were on the LH side of the control box, that is only the case with a "walk-behind" mill, your solenoids (as you are aware) are on the door of the power box...sorry for any confusion.

[cypresskayaksllc]

Just for my own sanity Cypress...if the problem was a connection at the power box plugs, then when reverse wasn't working, the solenoid must not have been clicking either...right?
Also, I didn't notice that you had a remote mill, when I mentioned in my earlier post that the solenoids were on the LH side of the control box, that is only the case with a "walk-behind" mill, your solenoids (as you are aware) are on the door of the power box...sorry for any confusion.

I havent had the mill for very long so Im still learning ins and outs. Im also not very good with 12v. Some of the readings I got earlier might have been an error because I wasnt getting good ground. I was trying to ground on the frame through the paint which doesnt work on my meter. Now I know to use bare metal. After I talked to WM and got that problem settled I was able to cut for about 30 mins and then another problem. I now have an electrical problem with the auto clutch. The part is on its way and I hope that will be all the problems I have for a while longer. I am starting to realize that learning how to saw isnt just about making the right cuts through wood but also about keeping my machine running.