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log arch build

Started by Revival Sawmill, May 17, 2019, 04:55:00 PM

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luap

The hub assembly should have the inner bearing placed in the hub then, the seal pressed in the recess with the lip facing out. Then the hub assembly slid on the shaft, outer bearing installed, washer, then castle nut. The seals are typically sized to be a press fit in the hub.

Revival Sawmill


Revival Sawmill

Quote from: luap on May 29, 2019, 05:14:02 PM
The hub assembly should have the inner bearing placed in the hub then, the seal pressed in the recess with the lip facing out. Then the hub assembly slid on the shaft, outer bearing installed, washer, then castle nut. The seals are typically sized to be a press fit in the hub.
huh. That would have been easier!  These seals are definitely not a press fit in the hub.  It took a bit of work to get them slid onto the spindles, and they'd be loose in the hub.  There's also a pair of metal spring things running around the circumference of the seals on the inside of the lip - I'm guessing those need to be towards the grease, and not towards the dust/water/abuse?
Thanks,

Crusarius

Put them in tight and let them self clearance.

luap

It is surprising that the seal is loose. Yes The spring that encircles the inner lip goes to the grease side. For maximum life of the bearings, it would be worth the effort to get the correct seals. Take the hub  to an auto parts and they should be able to order the correct seal. They will need the od of the recess of the hub and the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides. Bring your existing seal and they may be able to measure the od and see where the discrepancy is.

Crusarius

I wonder if that is an actual seal? or is it a splash guard? 

Revival Sawmill

Made a little more progress this weekend:

Started the bit at the top for the snatch block to hang from:



 

Aligned the holes - I may have to bore them out a bit, as it was a tight fit for a 1" pin.



 

side bracing



 



 

Mounted a pair of chain hooks on the back



 

decided to put a lift-eye/tie-down loop on there just-in-case



 

Got tired of fighting the rust and ospho battle, so I went ahead and sprayed the whole thing. 



 

I need to figure out something to catch the top of the logs and prevent side-to-side sway/wobble under the tongue, but I'll just grind the paint off those spots when I'm ready.  Thinking about two little 1-2" spikes sticking down and out about 4' forward of the arch?  I'm planning to give it a test-run here on the farm to get a handle on of what's needed. 





Thanks,

Crusarius

The A inside the frame is supposed to lock the log from flopping back and forth. pick the log up till it nests in it and off you go. a secondary safety chain under the log is not a bad ideas. Especially if you tow it down the road.

Edit: oops missed under the tongue thing. Just need a upside down V on the tong to suck logs up into.

doc henderson

a brace that could be moved forward and back if needed for shorter/longer logs would work.  could have a U shape to fit the tongue with a bolt through the top, that can loosen to move it forward and back, with the V under it to hold the log.  is the rebar a temp brace?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Revival Sawmill

Quote from: doc henderson on June 03, 2019, 10:48:51 AM
a brace that could be moved forward and back if needed for shorter/longer logs would work.  could have a U shape to fit the tongue with a bolt through the top, that can loosen to move it forward and back, with the V under it to hold the log.  is the rebar a temp brace?
I like the movable brace idea - If I can make one sturdy enough!
No - the rebar is on there to stay.  Probably not needed, but it's out of the way, and maybe helps with side-to-side stresses.

TIC

looks solid, maybe a tad heavy in the woods.
made this a couple years ago
 

Revival Sawmill

Quote from: TIC on June 09, 2019, 08:31:08 PM
looks solid, maybe a tad heavy in the woods.
made this a couple years ago

Thanks!  Definitely heavy; I don't think I'll be wiggling it into any tight places!  What you made looks far more reasonable!  How big of a log can you get with it?
Thanks,

TIC

i think its 32 inch between wheels, i carried a 27 inch red oak, i cut most of my trees selectivly so i drag that thing in were i dropped the tree, wrestle it in position then hook 100 ft cable and pull the whole mess out with my tractor. 

kelLOGg

Quote from: TIC on June 09, 2019, 08:31:08 PM
looks solid, maybe a tad heavy in the woods.
made this a couple years ago



DanG, looks like mine. I even painted mine red since the pic was taken.










 






Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Revival Sawmill

Thought I'd post a pic of the first really big log on the arch.  I messed around for a couple of months with getting an electric winch mounted, wasted some money, and finally gave up and decided to use a chain-fall for the time being.  







and some odds-and-ends boards (sourwood and rock-maple) we stacked last weekend:




I need to put the v-brace/log trap thing under the beam so I can winch logs up with more weight behind the chain, and not need to secure the front as much.  This time, it worked out, as I needed the weight on the hitch, but I'll have to come up with something better soon. 

Sixacresand

I built one.  It didn't look near that good.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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