Husqvarna 562 Xp - steps to assess damage

[terpjr]

Have a 5 year old 562 xp.
This year, had an issue with getting fuel to carb, determined it was a rotted line inside tank.  Replaced the rotted line and put saw back together started to run lean after warming up. 
Thought it was an issue with how I put it back together, reversed the process and then re-did it more carefully.  Still ran lean after warming up.
Starts easy, cuts fine (no issues with power), but runs lean.  It has not run much since but did spend a few minutes cutting wood in a lean condition - like I said, would start to go lean after warming up.  
I did not want to spend any more time chasing dead ends and running a saw that was lean, so I took it to a repair shop to hopefully find the issue and prevent further damage.
When I spoke to the shop mechanic, was purchasing parts for another saw, and asked if he would have a chance to look at it, he told me that it was probably not worth fixing and should plan on buying another saw.  I asked him to take a look anyway and dropped off the saw. 
I got a call a couple weeks later, he finally had a chance to look at the saw.  He said it had a torn boot, and was packed with dirt and debris which was causing the lean condition.  He said that the piston or jug was ruined and I would be looking at $300 in parts and the same in labor so I should buy a new saw.  
I don't doubt any of the things he told me but do not want to throw in the towel on this saw.  
I am capable at most mechanical tasks but would prefer to ensure that I am going about this correctly.


So, based on what I have been reading, I need to, obviously, replace the torn boot and determine what exactly is wrong with the piston and/or cylinder.  So, I figured I would ask about the appropriate procedure on here to assess my damage.  I have seen in many other posts, people sending pictures to the forum for advice and I plan to do that.


What would be the first thing to do:  Should I check compression?  Do a leakdown test?  Open it up and look?
From there, what should step 2 be?  (i.e. - if compression is good, do leakdown test, if compression is low, then look at piston).


Thanks in advance.

[Southside]

I would take off the muffler and look inside from there, you will be able to tell if the jug is scored.  If it is, I have put on after market jug and pistons for about 1/3 of what he quoted you there and it took maybe 1/2 hour, they ran fine.

Incidentally I had a saw once that I was having issues with and I knew it was because I adjusted the carb wrong, the repair shop told me it had no compression and was not worth fixing, buy a new one.  Had I not known exactly what was wrong I probably would have gone that route, instead I found another shop that actually knew how to work on saws and it cost me a whopping $15 which included a new plug.  

[mike_belben]

I usually dont end up with a saw until its smoked a jug and someone is giving it to me or willing to take a few bucks for it.    Aftermarket kits are pretty cheap these days.  

[Blaszer]

Ya gotta love amazon.......I bought a complete top end kit with gaskets, jug, piston ,pins, bearings for a husky 50 for $45....

[LeeB]

I did a new p&c on a 346 a couple years back with OEM parts. Replaced the boot and lines. Was less than $200. I don't expect the parts for a 562 would be much different in price. 

[LeeB]

Went back and found the thread from when I redid my 346. Was longer ago than I though. 2014. Parts were also more than I remembered, ~$275. 

[Mad Professor]

Pull the muffler and have a look at the piston.  If it is scored post a picture if you can.

Often the cylinder can be saved if scoring is just aluminum transfer from piston.  A few ways to do that.  I use HCl/muriatic acid and wet dry sandpaper/scotchbrite.  Keep the acid off the aluminum portions of cylinder and yourself.

Might be a good time to pull the flywheel and clutch to give it a good cleaning before you pull cylinder.  Don't let your saws get gunked up, it can make them overheat.

I would try to save OEM cylinder and get a new OEM piston if the piston is shot.  I have no faith in Chinesium parts.

You will have to get the intake boot if it is shot.  A set of seals usually come with a gasket set and is cheap insurance, then vac/pres test is recommended.

Here is a scored stihl 036 I got for free.  Piston was toast, cylinder cleaned up nicely.



 

 

[ehp]

If it cut ok, put a new intake boot on it . If piston is junk it would not cut proper . The rip in the intake boot is what causes the saw to run lean as its getting more air than what is suppose to get into the engine and that new air doesnot have fuel to mix with it so you are lean. Now one other thing , I have never seen the intake boot on a 562 ever rip BUT I have seen lots of 562's suck air past the boot where it bolts to the cylinder and LOTS suck air past the 2 transfer plate covers , Husky has seem to fix that problem on the new saws as they put a good sealant plus the o-ring on the plate . And when they start sucking air they will not idle , they idle at a high rpm like 7 to 8000 rpms . Seems like after about a year on lots of the 562s of cutting before they get this problem ,