Trying to figure out hardware for cabinet

[Brad_bb]

I'm building another sink cabinet from barnwood.  Here is the last one I built


 

Here's the new one I'm working on. 


 
 I've still got to build the floor, fill the side wall with barnwood, and make the access door.  

I'm trying to figure out how to do the hardware for the door.  I'm thinking no mortise hinges on the door and a 3/8 bullet catch to hold it closed.  

[btulloh]

Are you doing flush doors or overlay doors?

[Brad_bb]

I actually want to recess the door 1/8"  so it's flush with the stiles.  Do you see how they have a 1/8" reveal?  They are offset from the Rails so give more depth look.  The stiles are housed mortise and tenon.  I made walnut draw bored pegs that sit about 1/16th proud of the surface. 


 

 

[Brad_bb]

There will be a black slate top on this cabinet like I had done on the first one(I didn't do the installation, I just found the material and directed the look).  Here is the top on the first one.


 

[btulloh]

I've used no-mortise hinges a couple times and they're ok, but they are a compromise.  Save a little time, live with a bigger gap, and the gap should be the same on all four sides to look right.  They make some no-mortise hinges that are fairly thin, but still create a bigger gap than you'd shoot for with standard butt hinges.  When I used them I ordered several different samples before I found some I could live with.  You've only got four hinges to deal with, so it wouldn't take too long to cut the mortises.  You've got options!

Those inset stiles will be interesting to deal with.  

You might want to consider cock bead.

[btulloh]

One other things I remember about my no-mortise hinge experience (which was 15 years ago):  Some of the hinges are designed to wrap around the back of the FF rail and the door rail, so they reference off the back surface.  To inset the door with these you'd need to make the doors thinner - or mortise that back of the door rail.  I do remember some that didn't wrap around, but you end up with the weight of the door sitting on a few #4 screws instead of the weight being borne by the mortise.  

Nice figure in that wood!  Can't wait to see it with some oil on it (or whatever finish you're using).

[Brad_bb]

This is only the second cabinet I've built.  So I don't know all the terms like "cock bead"?  FF?  

I will have a larger gap around the door than a typical cabinet.  The barnwood is not planed, so that needs a little more room, and the fact that I'm insetting it 1/8" the gap will give room to clear as the door opens and closes.  I am using that 3/4"x3/4" trim on the inside of the opening so the door will closes against that.  That trim is shown in position in one pic and loose in another.

I'm assuming that you mean this type of hinge?
Wrap Inset Hinges - Lee Valley Tools

I'm looking on Lee Valley, and just google to try to find hardware.  I don't want modern hardware.  I want either solid bronze or solid brass hardware.  No plated or steel hardware.   Actually I think those in the link are plated, but not sure if brass or steel?

[btulloh]

Them's the ones.  Probably all no-mortise hinges are going to be brass plated and then gussied up to look older.  For something out of barn wood you might want hammered iron hinges - even surface mount would be appropriate.  But there are plenty of options out there.  

Cabinet Hinges | Buy Antique Cabinet Door Hardware

Robot Check

Pair of Forged Iron "H" Style Cabinet Hinges - 3" H x 1 3/4" W | House of Antique Hardware

Hinges at Rockler: Box Hinges, Butt Hinges, Euro Hinges & Piano Hinges


There were a lot of techniques that furniture makers from earlier times used to fool the eye or hide issues, which also create interest in the form of shadow or line.  Cock beading was one of them.  It looks best, like most things, when done precisely, but also helps to conceal minor variations that were unavoidable in 17th and 18th century furniture making.  A lot of what we do today came from the realities they had to deal with and we're still using those today - like panel doors.  Not only attractive, but solve the problem of wood movement.  Furniture are fun.  Just like timber framing, a lot can be learned from studying history.

Anyway - good luck with the hinge thing.  

(I also like that natural edge backsplash.  Cool.)

[78NHTFY]

Have been working with Custom Service Hardware for all hinges/undermount slides for my new kitchen.  Seems like a good outfit: quality product, good prices, fast delivery.  Think they have a selection of antique hinges.  All the best, Rob.

[Brad_bb]

btulloh,
Yes that quarter sawn grain is wicked.  Those were barn rafters in a barn in Indiana.  You don't see it that often, but whoever built that barn knew what they were doing.  Quarter sawn shouldn't move and your roof should stay straight as it dried.  I bought some hewn beams from this barn, and then when the floor boards were removed, I bought the floor joists, which were white oak logs hewn on 2 sides.  Then we went up in the hay loft to look at the loft floorboards.  I bought those, but as soon as I saw the quarter sawn figure in the rafters, I made a deal on those too.  The barn is gone, but I'm repurposing a bunch of the pieces. I have a nice stack of those rafters.  They'll keep in in cool project for awhile.

Oh and the preferred finish I like to use for barnwood is 2 coats of General Finishes High Performance Flat.  The flat has enough gloss to look good without making the wood look like plastic.  It still looks like barnwood with this finish.

[Ruffgear]

I would think a Blum inset style hinge would work perfect. They have soft close, etc. No need for bullet catch with these either. Good luck

[Don_Papenburg]

Knife hinges , would be nice  they fit in the top and bottom corner of the door and pivot at the outside edge of the door . you make a cut at the top and bottom about the width of a saw blade . Can be done on a table saw or with a hand saw.  Depending on thickness of the door , most 3/4 " will only protrude a small fraction of an inch . A lot of old metal kitchen cabinets from the 50s  had them so the doors did not need a tapered edge.   

[Brad_bb]

Blum and knife hinges are too modern for what I'm going for with this barnwood.  I just ordered some wrap-around shutter hinges from Rockler.  If I don't like those, I may go with a partial wrap no mortise hinge, or a forged looking iron surface mount hinge.  I found one I like, but it was on esty and way too pricey for me (hand made).

[IMERC]

Blum and knife hinges are too modern for what I'm going for with this barnwood.

will this help???

Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Hardware, Cabinetmaking Hardware

[Brad_bb]

IMERC,
Your link just takes you to lee valley's cabinet hardware menu.  That's where I started as noted in an earlier post.  Did you mean to link to a specific hinge?

[PA_Walnut]

On brass, If your budget allows, checkout Horton Brasses or even better, is Londonderry Brasses (hand-made lost-wax cast hardware). I believe Horton carries their products now. I have used them for heirloom projects and am always thrilled.

However, I would think brasses may be too high-style for the look. Hand-forged iron, like butterfly or rat tails, would be great and would be appropriate to they style. Of course, to each their own. 

[IMERC]

IMERC,
Your link just takes you to lee valley's cabinet hardware menu.  That's where I started as noted in an earlier post.  Did you mean to link to a specific hinge?

I tried to link you to hammered looking strap hinges...
guess it failed...
I'll try again... (w/ few others)
H- and H-L Hinges - Lee Valley Tools
Rattail Hinges - Lee Valley Tools
"Forged" Iron Hinges - Lee Valley Tools
Strap Hinges - Lee Valley Tools

[Brad_bb]

Thanks for all the links guys.  I ended up using this no mortise cabinet hinge with 13/16" offset.  Since my door was 1.25" thick, I mortised the hinge in.
Wrap-Around Single Hinge for 13/16" Doors Burnish Brass 2 1/2"



 

 


This is going to have one small cabinet on the left side, and then a black slate live edge top will go on like the one above.  The top will go over the edges and holes of the sink and holes will be drilled in the slate for the fixture.