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Logging winch cable Jammed??

Started by nitelite, November 04, 2013, 07:35:58 AM

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nitelite

I am relatively new to the forum but have been a visitor many times. I own a Norse 350 skidding winch that is realtively new. I attempted to pull a large log about 70 ft from the tractor and was unable to budge it. I put a fair amount of tension on the cable and then decided to cut the log. I was able to reel half the log in. I then walked back to the remaining portion of the log but was not able to reach the second half of the log because I was unable to pull out the cable past the 70 ft. It appears that the cable is stuck and I am not able to pull it out. I am not sure if it is tangled or wedged. It doesn't look like it is tangled. Should I try attaching the cable to a tree and give it a steady pull when it reaches the 70 ft where it appears to be jammed or are there other methods that I should be trying?

Thanks

br389


thecfarm

nitelite,welcome to the forum. That happens to me too.Just hook onto something. Most times mine will get a little slack in it and cause problems. I have an old Norse 450,brought new in '93. My Father and me used it to twitch out big white pine with it. It lives a life of ease with just my firewood. I don't know how much you know about hooking chains to a log. But get a rolling hook on a log helps out alot too.I always try to do this. I try to get the hook on the the left or right side of the log,kinda down low and it will roll the log as you winch in.Get it on the opposite side that the winch is on. So it will roll towards you.Helps out with any limbs on the bottom too. The limbs on bottom are just about on top now.The chain has to grip the tree, One way the chain will just slip on the tree. The chain will roll,but the tree won't.

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

thecfarm

Will have to start another reply to add pictures.
This is my 450 Norse winch,with the pivoting butt plate,on a NH 40hp. The 350 has a pivoting butt plate too. One thing I like about the pivoting part is,I can winch up the butt plate and hook a trailer up to the tractor.
What is yours Norse on?  HP too.Did you buy it from Labonville?


 

I also made up some shorter chains too. As I said mine is just about used for firewood now. Most trees are not even a foot and a half across. I brought 8 foot chains and hooks. I made 6 chains,4 feet long each. These chains are so much easier to use. Sometimes I only have about 6 inches left over instead of 3½ feet of chain to pull through a chocker. You can see them on the upper left of the winch. I also run 5 chokers. It's easier on the small stuff to have more chokers. I double up on my trees at times. I hook up one tree and then go around another tree,with the same chain, and put that loop behind the chain.,double up I call it. Hard to explain,but works well.
And I suppose you know,try not to pull at a sharp angle. Try to have the winch in just about a straight line to your pull. I have seen my winch tip rocks and plow up the ground,and roots winching up hill. Than I've seen it stop when there is nothing there too. Than I have to pull it a little side ways to get it moving. I just use another chocker hooked on to another tree to do that.
I also pull my cable just about all the way every time it starts to unwind hard. My cable is only held in place with a set screw,so don't pull it of the drum.Always keep a couple wraps around the drum. I hook it onto a log and than pull the log to me. Not a great big heavy one,but one heavy enough to keep the cable tight. This helps keep the cable on the drum correctly.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

nitelite

Gentlemen thank you for your advice. It was jammed and it barely took but what appeared to be a slight tug with the tractor to set it free. The winch is mounted on a JD990 which is 40hp. I purchased the winch in June from Labonville. I am familiar with the basics of running the winch safely and appreciate the helpful hints on chaining and choking the logs. I will have to try it out. The tree that I was winching on was a bit too large for a 6' choker by about a foot so I combined two chains to wrap the trunk. I run the tractor on idle when I am winching and the winch appears to have no problem pulling. I was surprised how fast the log moves once you get it moving.

Thanks again
   

g_man

If you feel the log is moving to fast for the terrain you are on just slow the revs down on your tractor a bit. You don't loose any pully power because a desiel has good torque at low rpms. I generally run mine around 1500 to 1800 rpm and sometimes as low as 1200.

Dave Shepard

I have an old Farmi, a JL306, and I often hook the cable to something and drive away until all of the cable is spooled off. Then I put the tractor in neutral and winch myself back to the log with a little tension on the brakes. this ensures that the cable is spooled on nice and tight. If you get the cable on there loosely, it will get caught like you experienced.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

thenorthman

What you had was the start of a birds nest, the cable gets loose on the drum, then when you tighten it up the working end slips down between a few loops of loose cable on the winch drum.  Its annoying and a pain in the butt, but it happens and is usually easily dealt with by tying on to something heavy and driving away with winch in free spool.

The really tough ones are when a loose wrap or more gets over your working end tying a weird overhand knot... they can be a bear to undo sometimes but its rare.  The biggest thing is too keep an eye on how the winch is spooling up, try to keep it nice and even, and don't let it take off on you during free spool (you hit the free spool and it unwinds all by its self).  I don't know anything about the Norse and other tractor winches, but there should be some kind of friction to keep the drum from going nutty on ya, not so much as to strain to pull cable, but enough to keep the drum from  freely spinning.

Also, you can unspool all your cable and either lightly set the brakes on the tractor or tie onto something and spool it back in, this keep the line wound tight, and help prevent binding, it will still happen, so I try to do this once or twice a day.  On a line skidder the winch line doesn't always have the option of coming in on center with the drum so you get wound up on one side or the other, causing general mayhem and agrevation, especially when you have 100' of 3/4 wound up on one side and bound against the winch frame... Hence why its a good idea to keep an eye on that drum if possible...
well that didn't work

thecfarm

One more thing I do. When I have a hard pull and things don't move,I check the cable right than and there. I try to pull the cable out by hand,if it moves good deal,if not I just get on the tractor and pull forward. Might just as well do it than while I am all hooked up to the log. Live and learn.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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