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I cut my sawmill in half!

Started by canadianwoodworks, August 01, 2015, 08:35:20 AM

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canadianwoodworks

This is part 1 of 2 in this first video I show the process of cutting a sawmill in half then bolting it back together to be able to mill lumber a stock width of 28'' then be able to extend to give a full width cut of 46''

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xws0u1ft_Qc


ScottInCabot

Going to go watch the vid! 

#1:  What about the weight concern of a 40+ inch diameter log?  Most WM mills are only rated for a certain amount of weight....


#2:  Very cool!!!





Scott in Cabot
Timber framing RULES!

canadianwoodworks

I don't think the weight of the log is an issue, yes the mill has a 3500 lbs axel but when milling the weight is transfered to the jack stands.  Think if you had a 20' log which was "regular" size it would be close to a 8-10-12 long log but double the diameter.

Yes fitting the log on can become an issue, although where I am most of the time I'll be cutting at 32-36''  maybe over 40'' at the crotch of a tree.

#2 thanks.... finger crossed.

thechknhwk

Think you have enough horse power for the wide cuts?

joejeep

Great video..thought about doing same thing. Looking forward to see  your results. Do you have any plans to compensate for your main tube torqueing when you extend the head out,,, I was sort of amazed how much cutter head lifted when you removed outer portion.
My wife says I do everything in excess

canadianwoodworks

Every time I talk to woodmizer here in Canada, I ask what do you think about the power? They always say you should be fine, of course a slow cut anyways because of the width.

Also I plan on doing a cut or 2 per blade then change, when cutting 40'' plus.

Time will tell.... (-:

Quote from: thechknhwk on August 01, 2015, 09:04:15 AM
Think you have enough horse power for the wide cuts?

canadianwoodworks

Others around my area have done the same, one actually extended to cut 52''. He has nothing special to deal with the weight shift.

One reason I did go with aluminum, saved about 140lbs on the insert.

Quote from: joejeep on August 01, 2015, 09:20:46 AM
Great video..thought about doing same thing. Looking forward to see  your results. Do you have any plans to compensate for your main tube torqueing when you extend the head out,,, I was sort of amazed how much cutter head lifted when you removed outer portion.

fishpharmer

Nice job!  I think you will be fine with the horsepower on wide cuts.  Just slow it down and use the sharp blades.
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

deadfall

Quote from: canadianwoodworks on August 01, 2015, 08:49:55 AM
I don't think the weight of the log is an issue, yes the mill has a 3500 lbs axel but when milling the weight is transfered to the jack stands. 

Should keep this thread in mind when trusting the jacks to do extra duty:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,84696.0.html

BTW, I think what you are doing is great.  There have been many times I could have used such an option.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

pineywoods

@dean herring have you watched this video. ? Might be a solution to what you have been looking for. Easily done by any competent fab shop. I've thought about doing this, but sorta backed off due to requiring custom made blades. This way, you can still use standard blades until a big log comes along, then open up the throat and mount a long blade.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Ljohnsaw

 ???  Where is part 2?

Nice job.  Like the routing of the aluminum blank.  You didn't mention about taking it down to the overall size.  How did you do that, table saw?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Delawhere Jack

I would seriously consider dropping the aluminum bar approach, and simply have a section of steel tube welded in to go up to 184" bands. That would add 13" to your maximum width of cut.

Consider that each time you extend the head it will require realigning the band rollers.

Also, have you ever tried turning 40" logs with the claw turner? It's not fun.... :(

canadianwoodworks

Quote from: Delawhere Jack on August 01, 2015, 05:38:57 PM
I would seriously consider dropping the aluminum bar approach, and simply have a section of steel tube welded in to go up to 184" bands. That would add 13" to your maximum width of cut.

Consider that each time you extend the head it will require realigning the band rollers.

Also, have you ever tried turning 40" logs with the claw turner? It's not fun.... :(

There should be no issue of alignment, it's bang on right now while cutting at it's stock width, once I get my longer band I'll put it on adjust it till it's where it needs to be then bolt it solid, I plan to add a few welded nuts with bolts to act as set screws to help hold it where it should be.

I don't plan on rolling the logs, this would be for cutting slabs 3'' - 4'' think take slab off, cut another.

I think I'll also have a setting to use the 184'' bands.

But only time will tell, soon I hope to have part 2 ready to watch, but as of right now not attempted it.

canadianwoodworks

Quote from: ljohnsaw on August 01, 2015, 02:05:34 PM
???  Where is part 2?

Nice job.  Like the routing of the aluminum blank.  You didn't mention about taking it down to the overall size.  How did you do that, table saw?

I initially had it machined at a local machine shop on a cnc mill

canadianwoodworks

Quote from: deadfall on August 01, 2015, 12:35:11 PM
Quote from: canadianwoodworks on August 01, 2015, 08:49:55 AM
I don't think the weight of the log is an issue, yes the mill has a 3500 lbs axel but when milling the weight is transfered to the jack stands. 

Should keep this thread in mind when trusting the jacks to do extra duty:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,84696.0.html

BTW, I think what you are doing is great.  There have been many times I could have used such an option.

Noted thank you!

bkaimwood

I've looked at mine, wanting to do the same thing...think it will void the warranty? Hahahahaha!!! I know its alot to ask, but do you have drawings/blueprints of what the initial shop did for you? And what you had to fine tune afterward? I'm also wondering what year your mill is? And wondering the differences to mine...u have an lt40?
bk

canadianwoodworks

This one is a 1992 LT-40 Hydraulic, inside the tube measured 5 5/8'' x 1 5/8''.

Basically machine it to that size, then add the notch in the center on all sides... then go from there.

I sanded it with 80grit on those contact surfaces until I was happy with the fit. I used a punch that I tapped into the metal as a depth gauge.

deadfall

You will definitely want to never get water in there with that aluminum and steel in that kind of close contact.  I would think that bar could freeze hard in there in very short order.  The better the fit, the easier it can seize.  I don't know what lube would work best for those dissimilar metals. 
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

4x4American

Really cool!


I thought that in Canada you measured in millipeters!


Look forward to seeing part 2
Boy, back in my day..

canadianwoodworks

Quote from: deadfall on August 01, 2015, 09:48:58 PM
You will definitely want to never get water in there with that aluminum and steel in that kind of close contact.  I would think that bar could freeze hard in there in very short order.  The better the fit, the easier it can seize.  I don't know what lube would work best for those dissimilar metals.

I read all the cans I could find, I settled on Fluid Film, it's a thick spray that says it says where you put it, it repels water, and dirt. I was very liberal with it, and plan to re coat.

I did though not actually think about freezing water in there, so i'm going to really its sealed well by the bolts. But I think what will makes a difference is that I will actually make a cover of something that will go around the angle grinder cut to help keep water

deadfall

Quote from: canadianwoodworks on August 01, 2015, 10:00:23 PM
I did though not actually think about freezing water in there, so i'm going to really its sealed well by the bolts. But I think what will makes a difference is that I will actually make a cover of something that will go around the angle grinder cut to help keep water

I was not talking about water freezing.  I was talking about aluminum oxide and iron oxide and the witch's brew of whatever is created in the presence of water when those two dissimilar metals get wet and electrolysis kicks in.  It will be its own battery of sorts if it is ever wet. 

So I'm talking about seizing.  Yes, you will need to have some way of sealing the cutoff joint and have some kind of roof or flash to not even let rain get near that joint.  When that aluminum is making white stuff and the steel is making red stuff, your thousandth of an inch will fill up fast with whatever product is produced in the presence of moisture. 

Even condensation could bite you.  That's why I mentioned some kind of lube that would leave no room for any moisture on those surfaces.  You might even make it part of regular maintenance to see it stays moving free and well lubed.  Maybe even have some grease zirks and fill it with a marine grease. 
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

4x4American

Fluid film is good.  That is a good point about dissimilar metals.  It is common practice to put some sort of a barrier between dissimilar metals.   When the fab shop bolted an aluminum box to the steel frame on our F550, they put this paper looking stuff in between it.  When I would weld new steel decking into the 53' box trailers, I had to put that barrier in between where it bolts to the alum. side. 


I would say another thing that would help besides keeping moisture out and keeping it well lubed would be to work it every so often on a regular basis.  Basically, don't let it stay in one position for too long.  Figure out how often you need to move it throughout the different seasons and go from there.  Then it will just be another thing to add to your PM list.  No matter how well you seal it, moisture will find it's way in, I'm sure of it.  Condensation is something to keep in consideration.
Boy, back in my day..

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Perhaps something like the NOALOX Anti-Oxidant paste electricians use on aluminum connections would help minimize the potential problem. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-NOALOX-4-oz-Anti-Oxidant-Compound-30-026/202276208

Peter Drouin

And you have to make a blade guard arm longer too.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

bkaimwood

Bimetal corrosion...dielectric grease works well in areas of steel vs aluminum as well...
bk

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