My first tractor!

[ForestGump]

So I am officially a man now! I purchased a beat up but functional Massey this week and am getting excited about starting to pull some wood out with it. I feel kind of like a kid in driver's training again trying to keep track of all the levers and shifters and gears...But the one thing I cant figure out is how to raise and lower the 3 pt hitch?
It has a 'quadramatic' system with some levers but they dont seem to do anything when moved. Any ideas on how to use the 3 point would be helpful- thanks!
I am trying to attach a picture but i can only get it in my profile right now...

[caveman]

On some of the Massey's there is a knob that adjusts the speed at which the three point arms move.  If it is turned all the way out (I believe) the arms will not move.    Good luck, Caveman

[Gearbox]

It will help to know the model , some had to have the PTO engaged . Is it full of transmition oil or 90 wt ( you need to know witch ) . Gearbox

[beenthere]

Forest
You now have 5 pics in your "woods" album now, and two are duplicates. Just so you know.

And clicking the line below this post window that says "Click here to add Photos to post" will take you to a new window to either upload another pic or go to the menu line and click on "My gallery" to get to the pics you already have posted. Delete the duplicates, and click on the one you want in your post.
It will enlarge full size. At that time, scroll down a page or two to where you see "Insert image in post" and you answer Yes and your pic will be in your post. Click "preview" to be sure it is as you want it.

Give a shout if that doesn't work for you.

[elk42]

 Forest I halve owned two of those. it is a filter inside I think you get to it under one
of those round inspection plates on the side under the seat. If it stops up the lift will not work . it is a good chance that the lift pump is worn out. Massey Ferguson Hydraulic Lift Pump Assly. - YouTube  www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3zIoH8scMQ

[SAnVA]

I think you just have your levers positioned wrong, the outside lever (closest to the fender needs to be up near the top of the slot, then do not move it, use the inside lever (closest to seat) to raise the 3 point hitch up and down. Hope this solves your problem!

[John Mc]

SAnVA - is one of those levers "Draft" and the other "Position"?  I don;t have a Draft lever on my Compact tractor, so have not had to deal with that in quite some time (not since I was a kid out in Ohio)

[thecfarm]

Congrats on the tractor. I like them old ones.
here's your tractor.



 

[SAnVA]

Yes, John MC, the outside lever is draft control and if it isn't all the way or almost all the way to the top of the slot then your up-down lever will have no effect on your lift. I have a mid or late 60's model 135 MF which I think has the same hydraulics as the tractor pictured and that's the way mine works!

[mills]

On some of the Massey's there is a knob that adjusts the speed at which the three point arms move.  If it is turned all the way out (I believe) the arms will not move.    Good luck, Caveman

It's been awhile since I ran a Massey, but like Caveman said, there is a valve that controls speed and there should be a handle under the seat that switches hydraulic flow from your remote hydraulics to your 3pt hitch.

[mf40diesel]

Congratulations on your tractor.  Not too long ago, I had a Massey which was extremely similiar to yours.  Mine was a 1972-ish MF-40 industrial, quite honestly it looked identical.  When I got mine, it barely ran, had roughly 10,000 really hard hours on it, and seemingly received no care at all.  Totally beaten up, I can't stress that enough.. haha  Even in the summer I had to use ether to start it.  Straight away, I completely rebuilt the engine, mine had the perkins ad3.152 diesel, direct injection model (in fact if you look up ad3.152 on youtube you'll see a video of the first time it started after the rebuild)  I never did get any paint on it, but I replaced or rebuilt a ton of things on it, and that bad boy never let me down, not even once. I let it go a few years ago, it was an awesome machine.

About your problem with the 3point hitch.  I can't really remember if it was the handle inboard or outboard, however on mine at least it was the handle that had the square top, not the round knob.  the round one was for draft control.  Also, their is a dowel pin somewhere under the seat that works in the top-link feedback for the draft control.  Over the years this dowel would wear out, and throw the quadrant linkage off so that it wouldn't work. (Clearly more to it than that) A mickey mouse fix, that was done to mine, as I never tore into the hydraulics at all, was to essentially pull the draft control all the way back, and when I mean all the way, I mean it went far beyond the limits of the quandrant guides.  I tried to bring that lever back into the proper range once, and nothing would function.  Might be worth a try.

As a disclaimer though....  I never tore into the 3 pt hydraulics, and am only really going with what was told to me, and what worked on mine.  Clearly something else could have been the cuplrit causing mine to malfunction that would not effect yours.  I think moving the lever is worth a try, but do it slow, and be ready to shut it off if something starts to sound bad or do something bad.

I believe I still have the very thick and large manual for it.  If you are interested in it, send me a PM,  I'll send it to you.  I go to sea for a living so it will be a little bit.  good luck to you.  Loved that sound of that Perkins at about 1750 rpm!!!

[Warped]

Steering tight?

[ForestGump]

Thanks for all the input! I had a couple weeks of vacation that needed my attention but now Ive finally had a chance to get out and play with it a bit these past couple days. Its a mf 202 and with a gas continental, 40hp more or less so it should have good power.
Pros:
easily lifted #1700 pound log
starts easy
pretty easy to steer
Cons:
poor traction when using loader (wheels spinning)
3 point seems to have ed and not really moving no matter where I position levers
steady drip of oil while running that seems to stop when tractor is off

I didnt see any kind of lever under the seat that would shift the hydraulics to rear but maybe I dont know what Im looking for...

So my next thought was I needed more weight on the rear end to make loader work, went on craigslist and procured a jd i-match ballast box for $120.
My tractor doesnt seem to have the top link for the upper part of the attachment? So...where might I procure such apparatus and what is it even called?
Again, thanks for the advice- I really do appreciate the encouragement!

[JDGUY]

Congratulations on the new tractor.  Its hard to beat older Massey Fergusons.  I have a MF240 and although it has been abused and looks awful it still runs like a top. 
Many of the old Masseys won't run the 3 point hitch at the same time as an accessory.  Assuming your fel runs off the hydraulics you may have a valve that that has to be switched to make the 3 point hitch work. 

[Thewoodman]

Good to see your got a front end loader, that'll make your life easier by a country mile. Heres some pointers

Keep your bucket low when driving around
Its a 2 wheel drive tractor, its not a go-every-were machine
NEVER push the old girl too hard

[thecfarm]

Got a tractor supply close by? They have all the 3 pt stuff.
Top link is correct.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/catalog/farm-ranch/3-point-equipment/3-point-hitch-parts

I myself prefer to load or fill the rear tires with fuild. This keeps the weight down load where you need it. It also keeps the 3 point available for something. This is kinda like the oil debate over on the chainsaw board.  ;D

[ForestGump]

Ok, rear tires are loaded but evidently not enough weight still. Guess Im headed to tsc today!

[John Mc]

Yeah, my rear tires are loaded, but I still need an implement on the back if I want to get the full use out of my loader. (kind of a bummer when I want to tow a trailer and have the loader full at the same time - the tongue weight of my trailers typically isn't enough to make much of a difference.)

[pineywoods]

I see you have a front loader. Most of the older Masseys had no aux hydraulics to operate a loader. So there's a diverter valve somewhere to divert hydraulic oil from the 3pt to the fel. It's usually under the seat, bolted to the top of the tranny. May be just an adapter there with  hoses going to a remote diverter valve. In other words, you can operate the loader OR the 3pt, but not both at the same time. This lash-up is all aftermarket hardware so I can't be more specific. Be aware also that these old tractors were NOT designed to accommodate a fel. Expect to have problems with front suspension and steering components. Loaded tires and 3pt ballast make the problems worse.

[John Mc]

Pineywoods - wouldn't 3 point ballast tend to take the load OFF the front suspension? (Filled tires don;t help in that regard - in fact, that may indirectly make things worse by encouraging you to lift more with the FEL??)

[beenthere]

Right John.
A ballast box on the 3 ph will counter-balance the load on the front end.

This MF appears to have a factory MF loader so likely the front end is built to accommodate the loader.

[Warped]

Buy the manual.
As said, don't push it, especially concerning the clutch which the manual should provide info for adjustment. Splitting these with a loader can be a real pita.
Does it have a pump on the crank?
Enjoy it, tractors are fun! 

[Ox]

That being an industrial model tractor I would think it has separate hydraulic systems.  One belly pump for pto and 3 pt. hitch (like its agricultural cousins) and one front, engine driven pump constantly pumping when engine is running for the loader (run with a splined shaft from the crankshaft pulley to an external hydraulic pump).  Typically the loader frame would house the oil for the loader.

Check oil level in rear of tractor and change the filter, it sometimes helps.  This model will likely be running hydraulic oil.  The old Fergusons (TO20 and 30) used gear oil for hydraulics with a double piston pump in the belly.

[pineywoods]

Ox got it right, I didn't look at the pic, assumed ag type tractor. That definitely is an industrial model..whole different ballgame.

[ForestGump]

It seems to have a slight drip of oil coming out of the actual frame of the tractor (on the right side). There is a plug on the top of the frame and a plug underneath. Is this hydraulic oil?
There seems to be a little bell cap on top of loader where Im thinking I should add hydraulic oil but I dont see a dipstick anywhere to measure how low it is. I do have the original manual which I found online but it isnt particularly thorough in my opinion.

[beenthere]

A few pics of what you are describing will help sort it out for you.

And you are talking "actual frame of the tractor" and not the frame of the FEL (just to be sure we get it right). Am thinking the "bell cap" is a breather that also is hydraulic oil fill spot. Also will be overflow if too full of oil and it expands when it gets used a lot and warms up. May not have a dipstick, per se.

Upon further looking, seems the tractor you have is Industrial MF 30 with the MF 34 industrial loader.
The bucket cylinder arrangement to tilt the bucket is different from the non-industrial loader, IIRC.

Found this discussion about the oil breather cap and fill, as well as comments on the dip stick arrangement. Maybe it will help.
http://www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/view_all.cgi?bd=massey&msg=14540

[chester_tree _farmah]

Rugged old tractors they were.

[Ox]

If the "bell" (breather) doesn't have a dipstick attached to it then the upper plug will be the oil level plug.  Add oil through the breather until oil comes out the upper plug.  You can also add oil through the upper plug until full.  The lower plug will be for draining.  These hydraulic systems don't always have a filter so don't be scared if you don't find one.  My big old Oliver doesn't have a hydraulic filter for its industrial hydraulic system.  Back then oil was cheap so just draining, flushing the bottom of the sump out with some diesel or kerosene and a fresh fill was what was warranted.  If the hydraulic oil is dirty, change it because dirty oil is what takes out seals in the hydraulic cylinders and pump.

[jmouton]

you gotta make sure  your trans and rear end fluid isnt full of  water too ,,  2 people i did work for on  similar  tractor s    hand 3-5 gallons of water in there  , came in  the boots around the knobs  and other places  i can only figure ,,   not good  but worth draining  the fluids out  and making sure ,,,, it will make the hyd not work too ,,


                                                                                                                 jim

[Ed_K]

 On my model 30 there's a dipstick on the breather cap,and a filter on the side of loader arm going up to the breather. If you decide to pull the piston pump, there's a side plate on the transmission (rt side) that you will have to open.There's a roller pin inside that has to be disasembled before you pull the top of trans cover off.

[ForestGump]

Im getting ready to drain the fluid as jmouton suggested, although Im a little hesitant because if it aint broke I dont think I should 'fix' it...is it just a good idea to flush hydro oil every few years?
Other problem thats limiting me is traction. The loader can really lift pretty heavy logs but tires just spin in the dirt even with rear weight box. I also have hard time scooping up dirt (clay and roots)- I drive into pile and tires spin before bucket really gets in very much. Would tire chains make much difference in these areas and if so is it feasible to DIY them?

[loggah]

I have an older Massey-ferguson industrial 30 similar to yours,little bit heavier, 60 h.p. diesel. The loader frame is the loader hydraulic tank and the hydraulic pump is in the front running off the crankshaft for the loader. I run chains and the rear tires are loaded,still lacks for traction when digging with the front bucket!! I mostly bought it to power my belsaw sawmill and it runs it really well. i alsi  have a platform i put on the back to use with my sap gathering tank in the spring. I would build a weightbox for your tractor to hitch to the 3 point hitch,and on the back weld a hitch to pull your trailer with, then you have more traction and still use your trailer. They are good old tractors !!! ;D ;D

[beenthere]

The bucket shown on your MF tractor is more of a material handling bucket than a dig-a-hole dirt bucket. So you likely will not be filling it unless the pile is snow or corn cobs.
Putting some serious weight on the 3 ph as well as chains will help. Just remember that you may be over stressing some other parts that will/may be expensive to fix.
Some pics of your ballast/weight box as well as pics of your dirt you cannot scoop up will help a great deal in providing constructive comments.
You are finding out why 4wd on tractors with loaders is popular too...   

[Ed_K]

I mounted a fisher snowplow on back of my model 30, it digs good then. I'd like to find a diesel for tho.

[North River Energy]

The loader can really lift pretty heavy logs but tires just spin in the dirt even with rear weight box. I also have hard time scooping up dirt (clay and roots)- I drive into pile and tires spin before bucket really gets in very much. Would tire chains make much difference in these areas and if so is it feasible to DIY them?

Remind yourself regularly that
1. it's called a front end loader, not a front end digger.
2. just because you can lift it, doesn't necessarily mean you should.


Clay is a tough dig even with the right equipment.  If it's in the budget, find a bucket that's narrower, with a shallower floor and teeth.

Your area might be short on used chains, but I bought a set off Craigslist this spring for 350.  Almost new tractor net chains with ice caulks, from a good manufacturer, including the original crate.
Chains are worth it, but they can also allow the user to abuse the machine.

[thecfarm]

I do alot of digging with my 4wd tractor. But if you have clay to deal with,that is slick no matter what you have. Roots are hard to deal with too. Let alone the clay too.

[kensfarm]

You can also get a tooth bar for the bucket.   Congrats on your tractor.. be safe.. have fun! 

[John Mc]

It seems to have a slight drip of oil coming out of the actual frame of the tractor (on the right side). There is a plug on the top of the frame and a plug underneath. Is this hydraulic oil?

Can you post a picture of where the drip is coming from? I'm not familiar with your tractor, so take the following with a grain of salt: If it's coming from where two major pieces join together, you might have some bolts working loose allowing the front half to start to separate from the back half. Take a look at the bolts all the way around and torque them up if needed.  If these bolts have been loose for a while, there may have been fretting/wear of the mating surfaces which could mean tightening up the bolts will not stop it. The fix for that is more involved than I can get into (though if the drip is not bad, the redneck fix is simple, and only costs you a few bucks every now and then for as long as you own the tractor - keep a spare quart of hydraulic oil on hand, and top things off every once in a while.)

[John Mc]

Im getting ready to drain the fluid as jmouton suggested, although Im a little hesitant because if it aint broke I dont think I should 'fix' it...is it just a good idea to flush hydro oil every few years?

On my tractor (a 2001 New Holland TC33D) the recommendation is to change the hydraulic filter every 300 hours of operation. I don;t see a recommendation on changing the fluid, but I've done that every time I change the filter. I don't flush it, but the system always looks fairly clean when I drain things out. First time on a used tractor I would definitely flush it out. If the system has no hydraulic filter, I would probably change more often, and flush each time.

Other problem that's limiting me is traction. The loader can really lift pretty heavy logs but tires just spin in the dirt even with rear weight box. I also have hard time scooping up dirt (clay and roots)- I drive into pile and tires spin before bucket really gets in very much. Would tire chains make much difference in these areas and if so is it feasible to DIY them?

A toothbar does help with digging in to piles of dirt, especially the tougher stuff like clay. As others have mentioned, you don't want to go overboard and put too much stress on the tractor/loader. If you've got an oversized material handling bucket on there, you may never get it full unless you are scooping up easy stuff.

The name of the game for traction, especially on a 2WD tractor is ballast. When that bucket is full of something heavy like clay, almost all the weight is on the front end. Filled rear tires help (I have calcium chloride in mine, but would use something different next time - probably Rim Guard/beet juice). But weight on the 3 PT hitch is even better (I use both). The further back that weight hangs, the more it will help counterbalance the weight in the loader. As a bonus, weight hanging off the back helps relieve the strain on the front axle.

Chains do help a lot as well, you might get by without them when properly ballasted if you have Ag-type (R1) tires. If you have Industrial (R4) or Turf tires chains can quickly become a necessity, especially if the ground is soft or even slightly wet.

I use "ladder style" chains on my tractor, because that is the only kind that fits my rear tires. I ordered mine with V-bars (basically, little spikes) for extra traction. They work fairly well - with my R4 tires, the tractor is almost useless in ice and snow without them - just spin when trying to go up an icy hill. The downside of ladder chains is that the lateral (side-to-side) traction is not as good as some other options. If you are driving on a lot of side hills, that may be a concern. The Ladder with V-bars has proven manageable for me if I'm careful. V-bars can tear up a paved road if you are not carefull about spinning your wheels - not an issue for me, since there is no pavement on my property, and simply driving over paved roads is not really an issue. Ladder style chains are usually "4 link" (cross chains are every 4th link along the side chain). You can also find "2 link" chains which have cross chains every other link on the side chain. They give a little smoother ride and may have a bit better traction

A better option is Duo-Grip or similar (Duo Grip may be a brand name?) These form a sort of "matt" over your tractor tire, and provide better lateral traction as well as some protection for the tires. You can get them either plain or with V-bars. They cost about 50% more than a 4 bar ladder style. This is the style I would use in my work in the forest with my compact tractor, if anyone were making them in a size to fit my tires back when I was shopping for chains.

Another option is "Double Ring Chains" these are ladder style, but the cross chains are made up of a double row of interlocking rings. They are designed to be self-cleaning in mud. I occasionally see some farm tractors with them. I've never used them myself, but I'm guess they would not be as good a traction on ice or hard-packed earth as something with V-bars. I've heard they are tough to beat in mud.

Tirechains,com has a good selection and decent prices if you are buying new. Check out this link for examples of styles of tractor chains.

If you are looking for a good tractor-specific website, you might check out TractorByNet.  I don't spend as much time on there as I used to (since I discovered the forestry forum), but it's a good bunch of folks, some of them very knowledgeable. Like any internet forum, you sometimes have to figure out who the folks are that really know their stuff, vs. who just THINKS they know their stuff.