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Stihl 028 WB

Started by samhunter1, January 03, 2018, 09:02:38 PM

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samhunter1

My dad gave me his Stihl 028 WB and I was using it to clear small trees and brush up at my place in the country. It had been working great for around 3 or so hours. All of a sudden it would not start and run. When I got it home and looked at it I noticed that the tank vent tube was cracked and had leaked gas all in the filter etc. I cleaned everything up, but I cannot get the saw to start. It will hit some times, but will die quickly. I noticed gas all over, even coming out of the muffler. This is with the saw vertical. All other gas lines are new. I don't know anything about saws, I know Jeeps, but was thinking maybe the diaphragm in the carb messed up and is just dumping fuel.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

Weekend_Sawyer

Welcome to the forum samhunter1

I'm sure you found the problem. replace that vent tube.

Jon
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

samhunter1

My dad carried s Stihl 028 wood boss in for a carb tune and the shop said the saw was burnt up. I have no idea what that means, but it ran fine before the filter got soaked from a leaky tank vent. So my dad fixed that, and got a little confused and tightened the idle screw. So I can't get the saw to run. I reset the idle screw as best I could and set the carb screws back to factory. I put a new plug in also. Now it is very hard to start, and if it fires, no idle. I did get it started once and could rev it up, but it died. Any ideas or anyone work on them in Al? I appreciate any help.

NCFarmboy

The first thing I would do is remove the muffler and look in the exhaust port to check piston for scoring.  If it's scored that's why it's hard to start and won't stay running.
Shep
Lots & Lots of Saws

mike_belben

Flashlight down the plug hole will show vertical gouges above the exh port.  Happens all the time.
Praise The Lord

Jeff

I've merged these topics. Same question, same poster. We only need one topic.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Don P

In which case it would need a new jug and piston?
You said it had new lines, I'm wondering if the carb inhaled bits of the old lines and is clogged?

samhunter1

When I get the saw back from my dad, I am going to check it out. I am going to take the carb off and look in, along with the muffler. If it is scored is it worth rebuilding or should I just buy a new saw?

dougand3

Sure, saw is worth rebuilding. If scored P&C, find out why...Poor Fuel? Tuned too lean? Air leak? A new top end will be ~$45 for generic AM. Name brand AM will be ~S100.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

ZeroJunk

If you are going to put a new top end on it might as well make it a Super.

samhunter1

How do you make it a super?

ZeroJunk

The damage is almost always on the exhaust side unless it inhaled something. So, first thing take the muffler off and see if there is any scoring on the piston.  If not your problem is elsewhere.

If the piston is scored you can clean the cylinder 90% of the time or better and just replace the piston and rings.  44 millimeter.

If you are going to replace the complete top end a 46 mm kit will bolt right on.   An 028 Super was just a 46 mm version.

Matter of fact I'm not sure you can even find a 44mm aftermarket kit.


Something else that may fit your problem is that the choke is in the air filter. When the saw is running the only thing keeping the flap from being sucked in is the tension of the spring. Could be old , broke, ..  Try it without the filter and see if it will run.

Be aware that the air filter keeps the ground strap in place and it can get over top of the control shaft and need to be put back behind it if it does.

samhunter1

So last night I got the saw back, and started looking at it. I did a rebuild on the carb, removed the spark plug and looked in the cylinder, and then the muffler to check inside. Everything looked great on the saw. I did not see any scoring at all. So I put everything back and carried it outside to try and start it. On about the fourth pull it hit and tried to run. I tried it again and it fired, but ran rough. I was able to adjust the needles a little bit and it ran much better. I plan on working on it a little more tonight, but if I cant get it set I will take it to a different shop and let them adjust it.

It sure is funny that my dad has always purchased his stuff from the shop, along with myself over the years, plus this is the shop that has always worked on the tools. It seems that the original owner has partly retired and sold half interest to a new person. It sucks that they now try to take advantage of an 87 year old man. I truly believe this, because this is not the first time it has happened. He carried a Stihl blower in and guess what, he was told they the carb could not be fixed and he would be better off buying an new one. I did not find out about it until much later. So the same has happened now with the saw. Its burnt up inside, so 250 to rebuild or you could buy a new one for 400 or so. Well never again.

Thanks everyone for your help.

ZeroJunk

Did you try it with the air filter off ?

samhunter1

I did. It really needs the carb adjusted. I believe it was messed with. I will give it a try and see what happens.

knuckledragger

When you pulled the jug did you blow out the impulse tube? Even a small amount of blockage will effect tuning the saw. A rebuild of the carb is good, however one needs to level the needle valve during the rebuild. Needle set too high could have caused the original problem of fuel soaking the filter.

ZeroJunk

Quote from: samhunter1 on February 13, 2018, 08:55:34 AM
So last night I got the saw back, and started looking at it. I did a rebuild on the carb, removed the spark plug and looked in the cylinder, and then the muffler to check inside. Everything looked great on the saw. I did not see any scoring at all. So I put everything back and carried it outside to try and start it. On about the fourth pull it hit and tried to run. I tried it again and it fired, but ran rough. I was able to adjust the needles a little bit and it ran much better. I plan on working on it a little more tonight, but if I cant get it set I will take it to a different shop and let them adjust it.

It sure is funny that my dad has always purchased his stuff from the shop, along with myself over the years, plus this is the shop that has always worked on the tools. It seems that the original owner has partly retired and sold half interest to a new person. It sucks that they now try to take advantage of an 87 year old man. I truly believe this, because this is not the first time it has happened. He carried a Stihl blower in and guess what, he was told they the carb could not be fixed and he would be better off buying an new one. I did not find out about it until much later. So the same has happened now with the saw. Its burnt up inside, so 250 to rebuild or you could buy a new one for 400 or so. Well never again.

Thanks everyone for your help.


I don't think I would be mad about a $250 rebuild.  The thing with a Stihl dealer is that they are obligated to use OEM Stihl parts.  I could get cost on an OEM top end. I bet it is close to $200 to the dealer.

knuckledragger

I went back and reread your posts. Honestly, I believe the saw is okay. If the carb is not responding it could be intake manifold leak, carb leak, or impulse tube. I bought an o28 super in '85. Great saw! If the jug and cylinder look good they probably are. Intake runs about $35. I got that super around here somewhere and a woodboss I believe. Following this post gets me thinking bout dragging them out to see what's up. So, to all you who did post on this thread, thank you.

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