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timberjack brake slave cylinder

Started by Sunrise Farms, October 24, 2012, 07:06:19 PM

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Sunrise Farms

Hey guys,
Seems like i'm always tinkering on brakes, but no big deal.
My 79 Tj 230 forwarder has the inboard brakes in the transfer case with brake fluid going to a slave cylinder that pushes up on a rod.  Anyways, the slave is leaking and needs replacing or rebuilding. I was suspecting this and bought a rebuild Kit a few months ago.
The only problem is the rebuild Kit has all the parts, but everything is too small. When I took it apart the rubber cup thing has a split in it.

i'm just wondering what you guys know about these?

I'm gonna try a real good parts guy at a local napa type car parts store, maybe pb&h if he can't figure it out.


'84 timberjack 230a
'96 Woodmizer Lt40hdd40
Primero 8 forwarding trailer

Sunrise Farms

'84 timberjack 230a
'96 Woodmizer Lt40hdd40
Primero 8 forwarding trailer

240b

I just buy the whole thing new from aftermarket not too bad. just bolt it on and go.

bushmechanic

Hey Sunrise Farms you should be able to get just the rubber cup at an auto parts store-the size should be written on it inside the cup side of it.Be sure to check the bore of the housing for pits and if they are present then do as 240b says and replace the whole thing.

poorfarm

pb&h equipment in NH these guys can help you....If they cant you are in trouble 1888 588 3005

Sunrise Farms

Got one from PB&H in the mail today, no time to put it in though.
Figured I'd ask, is there any special way to bleed this thing, or adjust the brakes?
I wouldn't assume it would matter if I bleed it fully extended or compressed?

thanks guys
'84 timberjack 230a
'96 Woodmizer Lt40hdd40
Primero 8 forwarding trailer

240b

If you have not taken the brake apart and cleaned all the rust gunk and stuff out. The brakes are not going to work any better. the three steel balls need to be free of rust and pitting and the grooves they are in need to be smooth also. I found an angle grinder with cup brush works well. The springs are most likely shot too. Its not a bad job, just really messy.(typical brake job mess)  Also, in adjusting them they are pretty fussy
if they are too tight and dragging they will heat up and expand and lock up. To loose and they slam on an off.(the banging sound you hear.)  The boot for the rod needs silicon also..  probably the worst design I've ever had on a skidder. I would rather mess with the old drum brake on my 230.

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