Size question

[wkheathjr]

Hello,

Is there a good website that will give good details on how to carefully pick out right size of logs for whatever type of design you are going to use to build a log home?

For example, what's the difference between 6x8 and 8x6 even though they are the same shape.  Is it because 8x6 is recommended due to log home with 2nd floor and 6x8 for first floor, or is it because of the climate? 

Also, other question...  Suppose you have 2 logs that is 16' long and your plan call for 36' then how do you put them together on same line?  Do you create a T&G in between to connect them or can you just close them in and caulk in between without T&G?

Thank in advance for answering!

[Jim_Rogers]

wkheathjr:
A name at the end of your posts would be nice so we know who you are....
As far as log sizes go, I really can't help you there, but when you're talking timbers then a 6x8 is 6 inches wide and 8 inches tall, and an 8 x 6 is 8 inches wide and 6 inches tall.
In timber framing usually the reference face dimension is listed first.
If I'm talking about a log, then I'd describe it by it's diameter, not dimension like you have listed.
If the log has been planed on two sides to create two flats one on top and one on the bottom then these dimension you have listed make sense but so does my answer.

Jim Rogers
PS. welcome to the forum...

[wkheathjr]

Hello Jim, I introduced myself as Ken and what kind of business I own (campground) in other thread, but of course I cant expect you to read every post.  ;)  So my humble apology if I didn't add my name...  WKH, Jr. is actually my initial with my last name spell out in my username.

Anyway, let me rephrase my question.  The question I was asking is that if I was to go with "D" style using the 6x8 to build my home, what is the difference between using 6x8 or 8x6?  Yes, I understand that it is 6" wide x 8" length just like a 4x4 post, but is the size designed for a purpose?  i.e.  When a house plan calls for 2nd & 3rd story then is it recommended to use 8x6 or 8x8 instead of 6x8?  Or is it because of the climate where you live and width give you a better "R" insulation?

Hope this is more clear than my first post in this thread?

-Ken

[Jim_Rogers]

Ken:
I'll let the other who regularly work with logs answer your logs questions, but if it was a "D" shaped log and it is 6x8 or 8x6 it would mean the same as what I posted 6" wide and 8" tall.
The reason a builder would use one size more than the other would be, I would assume, R-value.
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, for sure....

Jim Rogers

[Thehardway]

Ken,

I might reccommend you get yourself a couple good books on log home building.  It should help give you some detailed answers.  In general response there are numerous resons for using different log height and widths.  Wall height and number of log courses desired, looks, R-values, window and door sill depths, logs available, type of log connection,(T&G, Double T&G, Scribe, spline, dowel, etc.)  As for joining logs, what you describe is a plain old butt joint, it is the poorest of methods for joining two logs end to end.  Lap joints, splines, scarfs, all have a place and a purpose depending on placement.

My best advice would be a book and take some trips to some log home shows and historical structures.  Do some web searches on log types and log building systems.  They will show your the many profiles available

Get a good grasp on the basics of log constuction and it will save you a lot of sweat.  Hope this helps.

[wkheathjr]

Thank for the input.  I am still searching for a good book.  It seems that not all book store have good selections of log home book let alone how to build it.  I plan on purchasing "The Craft of Modular Post & Beam" book through amazon.com, but am still hungry for more information.  Also, I plan on attending Log Expo in Charlotte & Log Home Seminar in Raleigh this come Feburary (back to back weekend) and hopefully will be able to find something helpful and useful.

[Thehardway]

Ken,

Try "Complete Guide to Building Log Homes" by Monte Burch.

Covers everything from saw sharpening to plumbing in general terms.  Will give you the fundamentals and some good ideas.  Might also want to attend a week long class.  What you learn will pay for the class if you plan to DYI a log home.  I tend to gravitate more toward the TF side rather than log so I don't have a large library I can reccommend on log building but I do have this book and find it informative.

Stick around the Forum and search specific topics and you will also pick up a lot.  Good luck and send us some pictures when you get started. We like pictures here ;D

[wkheathjr]

...send us some pictures when you get started. We like pictures here ;D

Definitely!  Definitely!  I promise to do that! ;)

[TW]

First I must state my skill level so you do not overestimate the value of my reply. I have only about half a year log building experience, all of it repairing old scribed loghouses. I have an almost finished exam in construction engineering.

As I understand it you talk about logs sawn on three sides and left round on the outside. Thiis means they can be stacked easily without scribing, but the wall does not get the full stiffness of a scribed wall. The scibe fit would work as a kind of tongue and groove strenghtening the wall.
This unscribed method of yours is used in Switzerland and Austria, but I know nothing about it.

A thicker wall means better insulation properties and better resistance to buckling.
Some static theory for log walls in general.
A thicker wall has more resistance to buckling and can consequently carry more load. The more stiffness in bending the log wall has horizontally with the corners as supports, the better buckling resistance the wall has. The bucking resistance is in scribed construction at least in theory also helped by a greater distance between the inner and the outer edge of the long groove. Plenty of pegs do also help a lot. A log that is scarphed or cut off for a window or door has no bending strenght and consequently does not contribute much to the buckling resistance of the wall.
I have not seen any reference to any method for calculating buckling load for a log wall. Though I think it answers some questions if you know the principle of failiour.

This would mean that there is not much difference if your logs are 8" thick by 6"high or in they are 8"thick by 8"high. The wall thickness and the stiffness ends up as the same.

In my area there are three ways to scarph a log.
-Butt joint hidden inside the nothes for a partition wall, with pegs into the log below on both sides of the joint. Never do this kind of joint in two logs direcly above each other.
-Tongue and groove in the end. Always strenghtened with pegs on both sides of the jiont to prevent it from pulling apart.
-A long scarph like the timberframers make.

I hope this helps.

Don P  and barbender. We need you.