HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?

[Ron Wenrich]

Numbers on the saw should give you how the saw was originally manufactured.  They usually include a L or R to indicate how it was originally hammered.  Also will have a RPM number, and a serial number. 

The numbers on the carriage and the like may be that you have parts of a bunch of mills that are put together to make a mill.  Nothing wrong with that, as most mills function the same.  Usually a mfg had all their parts start with a letter that signifies the company.  I don't know where you would find that listing. 

[StoneCreek]

Numbers on the saw

[doghunter]

That's actually a really good mill to drive directly from a tractor pto. just hook the pto shaft directly to the mandrel.The saw is a 2&1/2 pattern it's a pine saw perfect for sawing medium sized pine logs. bits and shanks are readily available If you change saws the new saw will have to be hammered for a left hand mill.Good luck.

[JB Griffin]

From what I can make out thats a 8/9 gauge saw. I don't know what the other number is.

[Darrel]

Welcome to the forum StoneCreek!  Looks like you have a very nice mill!

[StoneCreek]

What's the difference in regular and long tip saw bits?

[StoneCreek]

And chrome?

[Ron Wenrich]

There is a bit more steel on the long bit over the regular bit.  I went with a long bit right after they first came out.  They lasted a few more sharpenings, and they didn't need to be swaged.  They also stood up better to debris without breaking off corners.

Chrome is coated on the bits and they stay sharper for a longer time.  The problem with them is you when you need to sharpen, you will have to grind the plating off on the first sharpening.  After that, you'll be able to use a hand file.  But, the chrome will be hard on the files.  It sounds nice, but I'm not sure it is cost effective, especially for a small mill.  I used chrome on my edger saws.  I flipped back and forth with using chrome on my head saw.  But, I had a grinder to help in saw maintenance.

On your saw numbers, the 8 and 9 are the gauge of the saw.  The 9 is at the eye, and the 8 is on the rim, if I'm not mistaken.  I would think the other numbers are probably some sort of serial number. 

[moodnacreek]

The problem with long bits is the manufacturing. They are some times distorted off to one side and not repairable.  Chrome is my favorite [in regular] used with super shanks. I file with a diamond file mounted in a hack saw frame and use the Dexter file guide. Although I have several electric grinders and use them also, the file guide is more accurate. When the chrome bits get narrow I swage and side file, otherwise it wouldn't  pay. Your 2 1/2 saw may need stand all bits to get started.  Does your mandrel have babit  bearings?