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Started by Keystone, March 22, 2004, 04:51:57 AM

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Keystone

I'm kinda new here, although I've been visiting the site quite a bit for the last few months. I'd like to find out how to process some fresh cut oak wood to use in my house. Right now, I'm in the log gathering stage and have a guy set up in a month or so to come cut the red,white and black oak logs into usable material for trim, flooring, etc. Other than having it kiln dried, what would I do with the flooring lumber until it is used? Also, I imagine the wood would still have to be sanded, etc once it's in? I've been searching this site as well as the web for pointers, but figured someone here could point me in the right direction? Thanx.  ::)
"Your goals minus your doubts equal your reality"

Den Socling

Welcome to the 'posting' side of the forum.  :D

I've been wondering the same thing. Do I find somebody to do custom milling. Do I buy some cheap, multipurpose woodworking tools. Or do I go for the good stuff.  ;) Lots of money could be spent.

MemphisLogger

Keystone,

We saw a lot of big oaks into flooring and trim stock, usually for an addition or new construction that necessitated the trees' removal in the first place.

We always recommend that oak be kiln dried to insure even moisture content, and most importantly, Powder Post beetle elimination.

Around here (Memphis, TN), we have a couple of commercial kilns that will take the wood green, stack and sticker it with an automatic machine, air dry it on their yard down to 25% then finish it off in a conventional kiln. They'll do all of this for $125-150 per thousand bdft.

When you get it back you'll either take it to a millwork company to cut the T&G, molding profiles, etc. or do it yourself if you have the tools--jointer, planer, shaper or big router.

We make small quantities of T&G and some molding using an 8" jointer, 15" planer and 3 1/4 HP router in a table. I wouldn't want to do a whole house worth though.

A commercial millworks around here will charge somewhere around $450-500 per thousand to mill T&G flooring.          
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Keystone

Thanx, I appreciate that. It gives me somewhat of an idea what to look for. When I say a house, it is a small house and other than the trimwork, I'd like to do an upstairs loft floor out of the red oak(planks). The rest I will probably sell or keep around for a bit until I decide what to do w/it. All of these trees had to go....I don't want to give the opinion that they were cut just for the wood. As for the plank flooring, do they have to be T&G, or can they be nailed down just butted together? It's a rustic type cabin I'm building, nothing has to be fancy. I want to face nail them w/some antique cut nails....at least that has been suggested to me.
"Your goals minus your doubts equal your reality"

cpm

I would recommend t&g for the flooring. Even with kiln dried lumber you can expect some seasonal movement, especially with wider boards. T&G also adds a lot of stability to the floor, less creaks. I also like the cut nailed look (face nailed). One nice thing about buildin rustic is if it don't come out perfect you call it CHARACTER! :D :D

Minnesota_boy

I hate it when someone walking upstairs kicks dirt into my food.  Tongue and groove is a must!  :D
The boards will change dimension and boards butted together will at some time of the year have gaps wide enough to see light through.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Keystone

Thanx for the info!! It's a real help and I appreciate it. Sounds like T&G is the way to go w/the flooring. I talked to the framer last night and he said I should also think about making some oak beams for the loft. Any pointers on beams? Is kiln dried sufficient for them?
"Your goals minus your doubts equal your reality"

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