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Good saw to replace Husqvarna 350

Started by sumpnz, January 11, 2021, 02:30:56 PM

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DHansen

Studs and nuts make sense.  So does going up one size in diameter.

Guydreads

Right @Spike60 that's correct. Must not have made it clear. Sorry everyone!

sumpnz

Quote from: Spike60 on January 24, 2021, 07:04:28 AM
Just for the record there are 2 different 350 top ends and only one of them had the habit of spitting the muffler bolts. Early 350's were 44mm bore and straight open port designs, and shared that top end with the 351. (Jonsered 2150 and 2149) That top end is fine and did not have the muffler bolt issue.

The later 350's were 45mm and had the capped transfer ports. The cylinder was shared with the 353, but had a dished piston on the 350 and flat top piston on the 353. (Jonsered 2150 and 2152). That top end had an allergic reaction to the muffler bolts and spit them out whether it was a plastic case or mag case saw. Problem was some kind of vibration that was at it's worse at the 12,500 RPM. Unless you stayed on top of the bolts, it is just a matter of time until they get loose.

Best rebuild option is to go with the 346XP top end which is the same price as the 350 kits. Think it's only $110 for an OEM kit, so there's not much savings going with an aftermarket kit, Only 2 slight alterations need to be made and it bolts right on. Take about .050 off the cylinder bolts as the flange of the 346 jug is a little thinner than the 350's. Then shave the "ribs" on the clutch side of the crankcase so they do not interfere with the transfer castings which stick out a little farther on the 346 cylinders.

Results in a real quick snappy saw. I've built several of them for my tree service customers who always loved the 346 and don't want to let it go. Was hesitant at first to put them in commercial use, but decent 346/2153 carcasses are hard to come by. They actually hold up fine and I don't see issues with the plastic case. Now some of the guys are finding decent 350's and bringing them in asking me to "give them the 346 treatment".
Fantastic info.  Thank you!

Guydreads

Quote from: Spike60 on January 24, 2021, 07:04:28 AM
Just for the record there are 2 different 350 top ends and only one of them had the habit of spitting the muffler bolts. Early 350's were 44mm bore and straight open port designs, and shared that top end with the 351. (Jonsered 2150 and 2149) That top end is fine and did not have the muffler bolt issue.

The later 350's were 45mm and had the capped transfer ports. The cylinder was shared with the 353, but had a dished piston on the 350 and flat top piston on the 353. (Jonsered 2150 and 2152). That top end had an allergic reaction to the muffler bolts and spit them out whether it was a plastic case or mag case saw. Problem was some kind of vibration that was at it's worse at the 12,500 RPM. Unless you stayed on top of the bolts, it is just a matter of time until they get loose.

Best rebuild option is to go with the 346XP top end which is the same price as the 350 kits. Think it's only $110 for an OEM kit, so there's not much savings going with an aftermarket kit, Only 2 slight alterations need to be made and it bolts right on. Take about .050 off the cylinder bolts as the flange of the 346 jug is a little thinner than the 350's. Then shave the "ribs" on the clutch side of the crankcase so they do not interfere with the transfer castings which stick out a little farther on the 346 cylinders.

Results in a real quick snappy saw. I've built several of them for my tree service customers who always loved the 346 and don't want to let it go. Was hesitant at first to put them in commercial use, but decent 346/2153 carcasses are hard to come by. They actually hold up fine and I don't see issues with the plastic case. Now some of the guys are finding decent 350's and bringing them in asking me to "give them the 346 treatment".
By the way, how do you know between first gen and second gen? I know some had primer some didn't I'm assuming that means that the one with the primer might be second gen?

sumpnz

After whittling on my log pile all week, and then having buddies over to hack away all weekend, I really want to get that MS-261.  The 461 is just too freaking heavy, and with a rare exception the 28" bar was just too long. A 261 with an 18" bar would have been MUCH better for the job.  The couple of logs that called for the 461 could have been still cut with it, but the rest of the time the lighter and shorter 261 would have been very preferable.

Sauna freak

Quote from: sumpnz on January 31, 2021, 11:52:55 PM
After whittling on my log pile all week, and then having buddies over to hack away all weekend, I really want to get that MS-261.  The 461 is just too freaking heavy, and with a rare exception the 28" bar was just too long. A 261 with an 18" bar would have been MUCH better for the job.  The couple of logs that called for the 461 could have been still cut with it, but the rest of the time the lighter and shorter 261 would have been very preferable.
Take a look at an Echo CS-590.  It's a bit bigger than your 350, and slightly heavier.  I've had one for 5 years now and put it through heck with no maintenance beyond cutting equipment/sprocket and basic cleaning.  I use it primarily for bigger jobs...bucking yarded logs, heavy trees over 12", even milling with a 24" Alaskan mill.  It's taken all in stride with absolute reliability.  Easy starting in the cold, I find the handling and weight superior to similar sized Stihl products, and the ruggedness and low-end torque for heavy cutting superior to Husqvarna.  I run a 20" bar standard for woods work on mine, and a 24" for milling.  It would really scream with an 18, and might balance better for limbing.  I'm tall so I prefer the reach of a 20".  Far outcuts it's price tag.  I use a 49cc J-red that I found for free at my township's recycle day for light brush work and much of the small thinning I do on my forest property.  I favor the 2 saw system.  I have the light saw for light work (or cutting myself out of trouble), and the heavier saw for serious cutting.
Sauna... like spa treatment, but for men

Guydreads

I agree with you Sauna Freak. Well, mostly. The difference between your Echo CS 590 and the Stihl MS 261 is that your saw is mostly for farm and ranch, the MS261 is a pro saw. Kind of like the difference between the 455 Rancher and the 550XP. I think he's really wanting a pro saw. :)

Spike60

Guy, sorry for a late reply. The arrival of the primer was after the second generation cylinder was already being used. Easiest way to tell the difference between the 2 is to just look at the side of the cylinder. If it has the capped transfer ports with the 4 little screws then it's the second generation 45mm top end.

The Echo 590 would be a good answer if the question was about a 60cc saw, but it's extra weight isn't what the OP is looking for. Sauna Freak even admits that he likes a lighter saw for smaller wood.

Most times a "2 saw system" suggests some separation between the 2 saws, and a saw like the 261 might be a better compliment for the 461. Whether going up the ladder for more power, or down for less weight, it's best to go more than one rung in either direction. Otherwise you can spend a lot of money and not really gain the additional weight savings or capability you were hoping for.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

sumpnz

Finally had time to pick up the 350.  Asked about the 261 while I was there and they said supply was getting tight.  Also asked about converting it to 3/8 pitch and he said they'd done so many of those they aren't taking the .325 bar and chain back in trade anymore.  Didn't ask what the price was on the 3/8 setup, but probably pushing $100 between drive sprocket, bar and chain.

Might see if another shop will do that swap as a trade in for the .325 components.  

Spike60

I kind of feel their pain on the extra bars. Some expert in Husky corporate has decided that the 460 Rancher will only come with a 24" B&C. Most people around here prefer a 20". The 460 is a small mount bar, so it can't be used on the the rest of the big saws. And I can't eat a bar every time I sell one. Not going over too well. LOL
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

sawguy21

 ::) I wouldn't be happy either. I sold a few 24" small mount bars but the customer was not long coming back for a shorter one.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

sumpnz

SWMBO picking up my new MS-261 right now.  Modified for a 3/8 pitch chain.

Edit for clarity: it's a 261-CM.

sawguy21

old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

sumpnz

20".  It's the standard length.  Thought about going to 18" but figured I'd do that as an extra bar if I decide I want to go that route.

sumpnz

Proof that it is possible to seriously look forward to a visit from your mother-in-law.

SWMBO left the the 261CM at her mom's. She was visiting and picked up the saw for me while there and the failed to ensure it got in the car for the drive home the next day.  She also left Thing 4's bicycle, so not like it was intentional.  The saw and the bike were together in the garage and both got missed somehow.  

But MIL is coming for Thing 1's birthday party in a week.  So she'll bring the saw (and the bike) when she comes.

sumpnz

Woohoo!  Got my new saw today.  Finally.

Screwbolts

I would find myself an older Poulan 3400, The ones I have run circles around my 2 350s. Get/find a 3700 or 4000 for some real American Craftsmanship saw time.  A good old Pioneer P39 would also bury your or my 2 350s. and my P45 Lots of good saw. Easy saws for maintenance, just good quality stuff. My 3 Huskies haven't been to the woods in a couple years.

laus deo,
A free people don't ask permission,

Ken

Dan23

Good saw to replace the Husqvarna 350 chainsaw?

I have the 450 Rancher and it's a decent alternative if you want something very similar. Though better to go with the 460 Rancher for the extra bit of power. Or better, get into the XP range.

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