mattison moulder knives

[poor farmer/logger]

Hi everyone year and a half ago we purchased a mattison 222 or 223(can't remember at the moment) 4 sided moulder. Picked up a generator for it last spring and have been slowly brining it up to speed. We're looking for a set of tongue and groove v joint profiling knives and not sure where to start looking. Any dealers on here that we could talk with or leads to any places where we could find some would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Ryan

[redprospector]

When my Dad had his shop, he would have his knives made at a saw shop. I think that about any good saw shop should be able to make knives to just about any profile that you would want.

[poor farmer/logger]

We've got a few emails out to the closest saw shops and some other specialy companies so we'll see where that leads us I guess.

Thanks

Ryan

[trim4u2nv]

Woodworkers tool works, cg schmidt, mirror-reflections, menominee saw grinds knives also.   Do you have safety heads with grooves every 1/16th?

[poor farmer/logger]

Thanks for the names. Right now all we have is a straight knife head so we're Gona need some new heads as well. Pulled a head off today and the motor shaft is 1 13/16"with two grooves similar to a jetway but more rounded. Found one company in bc that might have some used heads for us. Have to email some dimes ions just to verify first though.

[trim4u2nv]

I still use some heads with the smooth steel tooling.  You just have to be careful on setups so you dont throw a knife.  Dead flat smooth and squeaky clean.   Most of the 1-13/16 heads are easy to find used.   I bought 20 for $30ea at an auction brand new with wood shipping blocks still in boxes.  So look around some auctions.
   The type of motor shaft you have was designed for collet type clamps.  If you use hydrolock try to get some 10 years or newer so you can span the keyways without distorting.   Older sleeves were designed for solid shafts only.   Be sure to use the safety clamps if you use hydrolock.http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/accessories/images/safety-lock-collar-sq.jpg
The hook angle of your head is important too.  Aggressive 16-20 for softer woods and 5-12 for harder woods

[trim4u2nv]

From a previous post it was mentioned you had a brother who is a machinist didnt you?  You can bore out old heads and buy hydrolock  sleeves if you rebalance the head.
http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/hydro-lock-sleeves.html

[poor farmer/logger]

Been dealing with a company in canada that retails for global tooling. Has a set up for us that would be perfect for what we're doing only set back is the price. 3,000 or so dollars plus some freight probably. takes a big chunk out of the profit that's for sure.

Darn auto correct on my phone I just reread my old post and see it says jetway.lol..  Should read keyway.

Dealer has some used heads but is concerned about sharpening the profile. There aren't any dealers left in Saskatchewan for this type of equipment and not many people that do any saw or planer work. Mostly the mills themselves have picked up on this as a necessity so they don't have to send everything out.

My brother is a machinist and I do have a lathe and tooling here as well so will keep looking. Thanks for the tips.

Ryan

[poor farmer/logger]

Just thought I'd give a quick update and maybe seek a bit of advice at the same time.

Ended up getting a set of heads and knives from Global Tooling. Company out of BC is our dealer so we had to go through them. Was a bit expensive though. 3500 bucks almost by the time everything was said and done. Carbide knives with the v joint tongue and groove profile. Ordered a extra set of knives at the same time as they were a bit concerned of them cracking on our mill. I'm sure once everything's set up tight it will be fine though.

Got one snag though the rear head adjustment is stuck. Been soaking it down every day almost but so far no go. Fraid we're gona have to pull the whole rear head assembly off so we can get at the shafts to try and loosen them. There's a shaft that runs across with a bevel gear that goes up to a lead screw in the rear head assembly. It seems to be seized up in the cast assembly. Haven't tried putting any heat to it yet but may give it a light go before I tear it completely down.

Will see if I remember how to post pics. This is the set up that we ended up getting.

[trim4u2nv]

If the side head adjustment is stuck (in and out from the back fence), dont forget there is a lock screw and possibly a locking lever on most mattisons.  The side heads slide on v-ways similar to a lathe bed.  I have used a high amperage welder to heat up some of the stuck leadscrews and freed them.  I have also used old motor oil (slightly acidic) to soak the frozen parts also.  Most of the leadscrews have a ring collar with a tapered pin driven through for load bearing.  If you overtorque the leadscrew the taper pin will shear like a propeller shear pin.  A good picture would help also.