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Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill

Started by tyb525, August 06, 2008, 05:52:00 PM

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tyb525

I've been looking at the Granberg Alaskan Small Log Millmon Bailey's. It seems like a good deal, and I already have a big enough saw (20" 036). I would just need to buy the chain.
Does anyone have experience with this, and is it worth it?
I just want to be able to cut small amounts of lumber (a few logs here and there) and I don't have the money for a bandmill.
Any input is appreciated.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Kelvin

Sure its fun.  Just don't eyeball those big logs and wish you had a bigger saw.  It can get expensive.  Good for doing this and that.  Do some searching here on setting them up the first cut is critical and it helps to make a good jig to lay it out flat. 
Good luck
Kelvin

treenail

Have owned a 30" granberg rig for over twenty years or so, and if occasional cutting of a few timbers is what is planned, then go for it. Don't use mine much of any these days , since I have a larger bandmill, but the granberg did just fine when that was all that I had to saw with.  It's affordable, and portable.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 sawmill , Ford 4wd tractor,Grimm/Leader maple sugaring equipment, Ford F-350 12' flatbed truck

tyb525

Sounds like you guys like it, I'm thinking I'll get it. Since I'm a woodworker and plenty of logs & trees, I think it would be worth it.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

JV

I have a 56" I use to break down big logs that won't fit my mill and to slab.  I was apprehensive at first, but after using it I like it.  You will need to make a good set of rails for the top of the log or use an aluminum extension ladder.  My brother-in-law just picked a used 24" for me.  I'll use it for timber framing, works for cutting tenons.  They won't replace my mill, but they are great for their intended purpose.  I plan to pick up the mini-mill for edging slabs.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

Tom1

tyb525,

I have the Granberg Small Log mill. I've used it with my MS310 and it worked fine on small trees (up to 14"). I tried it on a 32" white oak with a 20" bar, the saw will bog down pretty good with that big of tree. I just use my 310 for felling anymore and now use a MS660 on the small mill. If your not looking to cut large amounts of lumber or big trees it works very well.

Tom
MS660, MS310, Frick 00

hazard

I have been using a 36" mill for 10+yrs at first with a stihl 044 and now a 066.

For the jig I use a 2x2 screwed to a 2x4 for stability.  One for each side.  I use a piece of 1" square tubing in each end.  Each piece has a bunch of holes for nails.  I use big hand clamps to attach the 2x4's to the tubing.  I level the tubing with a 1' level.  Very simple.  I can set up the first cut in a matter of minutes.  Max length of log is 7'.  Have longer logs, buy longer 2x4's

Again very simple.  I have to take pictures one of these days.

Chris

JimMartin9999

Hazard,
A picture is worth a thousand words. I am going to using an Alaskan mill for the first time  in September and would like to get a good start.  What are the one inch square tubing pieces for?  Do you put nail holes in them or in the 2X4´s. Any experience with the Granberg slabbing brackets?  Are they just expensive  one inch tubing?
Jim

John S

I have a 32" granberg and use a Stihl 066 with it.  I also have the vertical attachment for edging.  They work, but it is demanding physically.  The smaller mill is probably fine for smaller logs.  Cut the logs when they are fresh if possible.  I use Bailey's ripping chain and sharpen with a Dremel.  I did not have any luck with the Granberg clamp on jig.
Just today I bit the bullet and bought a LT-15 at the county fair.  Hope to start using it next week.
2018 LT40HDG38 Wide

tyb525

Thanks for the info guys. As far as log size, it probably wont be any bigger than 18". If I get bigger logs I'll just take them to the mill nearby.

Hazard, I'll take your advice and try to build that jig.

John S, I will probably get an edger also. I bought Bailey's ripping chain the same time I bought the mill.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

hazard

I have a chunk of elm in my driveway that I am going to use for bowls.  I will hook the rig up to that and take a picture of what I do.

Chris

thecfarm

John S,I suppose the LT 15 is a new one.What size motor did you get?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

tyb525

hazard, I also have a red elm log sitting around, it's gonna be the first log I cut I think.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

hazard

So here you go.  I have probably milled 30 logs with this setup.  I started out with the granberg rails and there system.  I did not like how limiting the jig was.  The log always had to be at a certain length.

Here I am leveling the square tubing.  I do not have any set distance I put the tubing down on the log.  I leave enough room so I can place the 2x4's on each end.  Also do not put the 2x4's down below the log of the mill will hit the log.


Here I placed the 2x4's on the tubing and clamped them in.


2x4 with 2x2 for clamping


Set the mill depth for 5 1/2".  If you go less you will hit the clamps with the chain.  You can still get a board out of the first cut slab.  I personally cut everything at 1 1/8" so if this isn't absolutely perfect it doesn't matter.

Like I said very simple.

Chris

Please use the forum gallery for photos.
We don't allow linking to off-site storage.
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SwingOak

I bought a 24" Granberg mill this spring. I used it with my Husky 262XP with a 24" bar for milling some walnut. I can say that even with a sharp ripping chain it goes through a tank of gas each pass through a 20" log, and it does bog down a lot.

So, I've got a loaner 084 AV, I just need to get a 28" or 30" bar for the mill to run full width.

Regarding set up, the instructions that come with the Granberg mill are very good, but I also recommend you visit their website and watch the videos. If a picture says 1000 words, then video explains what those words mean...

hazard


beenthere

Nice pics, and thanks for posting them.
Do you have one with the saw in place and after a cut was made?

That would help me?   :) :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

JV

This help?

Ready to saw




Almost done


John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

hazard

Something I forgot to add it that I have an extra cross piece that I bought for the mill.  I place this over the 2x4 for support.  Also once the cut is so far in I will put a wedge in the end so the blade doesn't pinch.

JV  How long does it take for you to make that cut.  For me it would be like 10 minutes.

Chris

tyb525

Thanks hazard and JV for posting those pictures. That really helped me figure it out.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

JV

Chris

0n a 40" plus 8 footer it probably takes 10 minutes, plus a quart of gas mix.  Especially if it was a white oak that had been down for 4-5 years.  I run the carb a little rich for lubrication.  Sometimes it takes over 10" if the operator runs out of steam.   :D  I'm probaby going to raise my slabbing rates at the current price of gas.   :(

Top off




3 1/2" slab 40" wide and 100" long


John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

hazard

I don't know if I could ever saw logs for money.  It is so time consuming and energy draining on me.

Nice slab

Chris

tyb525

Another question guys. I was thinking today that I don't really want to use my main saw for milling also. But I do have 2 homelite 360's (about 20 years old) that are missng parts, but there are all the parts to make one complete saw.
Is a Homelite 360 usable as a milling saw? Is it comparable to a (stihl) 036?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

sawguy21

I don't believe the old 360 would have the stamina for milling but it might be worth a try.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

tyb525

I'll try it, if it doesn't work out I'll try my 026, or go back to the 036.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

gizmo

I can't seem to get a pic posted on here and I keep them small. They uploaded but God knows where they went. I was trying to boast about my first try with the Alaskan. Actually had a good time making the cuts but getting the log down and setting for the first cut took some time. Here's a link to what I accomplished { Quite minute by your standars} but fun as heck. Let me know what you think...

http://homepages.roadrunner.com/outdoorsman/

tyb525

gizmo you sure have a nice webpage. The pics of the mill were good, too. Using a ladder is interesting, I didn't think it would be stiff enough not to flex while you were cutting?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

gizmo

I have channel posts lag bolted into the trunk about every three feet and the ladder strapped to them.. It's an old ladder and they don't make ladders like they used to.

sawguy21

I enjoyed that too. Some beautiful country, especially in fall.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

beenthere

Quote from: gizmo on August 10, 2008, 10:27:33 PM
I can't seem to get a pic posted on here and I keep them small. They uploaded but God knows where they went. .....

They are in your gallery...and they look great. You have a total of 11 pics in there, going back to '05.  But you have two albums set up, "My Rottweiler" and "New Album". A couple pics added yesterday in each one.
8) 8)
You can go to your gallery through the link on your home page, or by clicking on the "My Photos" link to the left of your posts.

When posting or modifying a message, you can click on "Upload or insert Photo?" under the blue window, it will let you go to "My Gallery" where your pics are. Click on the pic you want to post, and scroll down to the "Click here to copy......blah, blah " and your pic will appear in your post (when you say "yes"). 

Hope this helps.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

JV

gizmo,

Nice pics, and ditto the beautiful country.  That first cut sure feels satisfying after you finish

it.  Ladders or 2x4's are a lot less expensive than the 200 bucks Granberg wants for their

rails plus the cost of the extensions.   
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

hazard

gizmo

Cool pictures.  I liked the ladder idea.

I would add weight to your boards so they do not warp.  You probably did this after you to the picture

Chris

Nikko

I run a 48" mill on a 37" bar with an old Husky 2100 and an aux. oiler. Milling this way is a lot of fun, an excellent workout and you can get some cheap wood this way. About 6 weeks ago we milled 1200 bd ft (usable) of Beech (bole was 44" across the butt) in 2 days - 30" wide slabs 3" thick, 8.5' long each - 21 of them. 195' lineal feet of cutting all together. Ran 1 liter of gas/cut, 3 cuts to a sharpening - amazing!

Couple of things:

1) use a veggie-based bar oil. It's better for the environment, and you're less likely to have a reaction if you apply a finish to your wood later on. Use lots!
2) for the odd bit of cutting with a 20"saw, don't bother with the milling chain. Instead cut your slabs a little bit thicker (1/8") as the cut won't be as smooth (it'll cut at about the same speed though) and you'll need to plane a bit more off  later to get a finished piece. That said - keep the chain sharp. If you get serious and want a better surface finish, THEN buy milling chain.
3) use a ladder for a reference plane to do your first cut. I bought a 20' aluminum extension ladder off Craiglsist for $20. I screw in a piece of angle iron into either end of the log, making sure both are level (I carry a small torpedo level), and clamp the ladder to it using some small C-clamps. If there's a big section of unsupported ladder, I place a couple of wedges under it to make sure it doesn't move. Takes minutes to set up, deadly accurate and it's light to move around.
4) make set-up blocks for adjusting your mill height instead of using a tape measure or instead of trusting the increments Granberg stamps on the uprights. Makes for MUCH easier set-up if you're single handed.
5) drink a LOT of fluids when you're milling. You'd be surprised at how hard you're actually working.
6) place the log on a slope so you're milling down hill by about 5*. You'll be surprised at how much of a difference this makes - the saw will pretty much pull itself along.
7) try to mill with the wind to your back. The saw's exhaust can really get to you. I had my muffler modified to aim the exhaust away from me - HUGE difference.
8) don't forget to wedge the kerf as you go. One wedge in the butt as soon as you can, two mid way down the log and another two just before you exit the cut is about perfect. And TAP the wedges in gently (or place them in - don't even tap them), don't wail on them. You want to maintain the kerf that's already there, not make it bigger.
9) after you've finished a cut let the saw idle for at least a minute to cool before shutting it down/
10) sweep the sawdust off the last cut before starting the next one.

Enjoy!

Nikko

John S

thecfarm,
Been away for a few days.  The Lt-15 is a 15 hp.  I ordered one extension and the new trailer loading kit.  Hope to start cutting in a few days.
John
2018 LT40HDG38 Wide

JimMartin9999

Jim

Nikko

Pairs of wood blocks (2x4) cut to whatever length(s) you need so you can sit them on the bar, drop the mill to sit on them and tighten the clamps. Blocks are then removed.  For standard cuts (your first one from the ladder, 5/4, 9/4 etc.) they're a lot easier than fiddling with a tape measure.

Nikko

logwalker

I just received the 2 Solo 681's from Bailey's for our neighborhood mill. Breaking them in with normal cutting before putting them on the mill. We were using 2, 20 year old Husky 61's and getting 1 foot a minute in 58" western maple. We are cutting a 42" Doug Fir next. These Solo's are quite the saws.  Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

JV

Something I just thought of, and this probably applies to only the bigger mills, while cutting a large log with my 56" one of the guys noticed my bar was bowed down.  I loosened the outboard clamp and the post jumped in about 3/4".  This was in almost 90 degree temperatures.  I don't know if the bar was running out because of the temps or if the guide on the inboard clamp was bumping over.  I have a habit now of loosening and retightening the inboard clamp to release any tension on the bar between cuts.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

tyb525

Got the mill today via fedex, got it set up and going right away. I decided to cut a red elm I had laying around (good thing I thought to put boards under it to keep it from rotting). The first cut was faster than I thought it would be. The second was slower. The rest were about the same speed. I contributed this to a) the cutting getting wider as I neared the center, and b) the chain getting dull.
Overall it turned out good, and I like the grain red elm has.
What is you guy's experience on how long chains will last before needing sharpened again? This log was about 16" butt end, 12" small end, about 8' long.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

hazard

I figure 3-4 boards between sharpening.  If they are in the 15" range maybe more.  I figure every tank of gas on the 066 I sharpen the chain.  I use a hand file, 5 strokes per link.

Also if I start working harder then I should the chain gets sharpened.

Chris

tripleH

Hi,  I'm new to posting to the forum but have been reading for several years.

I have done some chainsaw milling and came across a website from a place in Canada who deals strictly in chainsaw mills.  They recommend sharpening the chain at 90 degrees to the bar.  I have tried this and it really smooths out the cut.   Also it is really good for the bar if you can add extra oil to the tip of the bar as you mill.
I will try to post some pictures of the mill my friend and I built with an 18 horse riding lawn mower engine and a 25 or 26 inch chainsaw bar.  I was using my Sthil 056 but not the power for the big stuff.  We are also looking at a longer bar.  Now we can only cut 16 inch wide max.

TripleH

JV

tripleH,

Welcome, looking forward to the pictures.  Always nice to hear about different experiences

and perspectives.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

gizmo

I 'll try getting those pics on there. First is my tractor hauling it down in the bucket to keep the bark clean......










thecfarm

gizmo,nice saw.Brand new?
Nice thread you guys have going here.Keep it coming.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

gizmo

Saw is a few years young... I need some time to use it.








tyb525

Gizmo, I'm no expert, but shouldn't those stickers line up vertically?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

gizmo

You're more expert than me. Should they be? I staggered them because I thought that's how they should be. Any more inputs???

beenthere

gizmo
What is your plan for those thick cuts?  short term or long term?

Probably stickered as you have them doesn't have much effect because of the thickness,
...but would if you were stickering a pile of 4/4 (1") lumber for drying. Then having the stickers straight above the bolsters, and up through the pile keeps the stresses in balance.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

gizmo

I was going to make a couple benchs for around the fire pit with the thick cuts. It would give it a little rustic look.

tyb525

Like been there said, with something that thick, it probably doesn't matter too much, especially if you want it to look rustic. Nice saw you got there gizmo.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

gizmo

Thanks for the comment on the saw. Tell my wife it's nice!! $$$    It looks shiny because of all the sweat that dripped on it as i was sawing.........Anyone used the Beam  Machine to lop off the edges??

tyb525

I've been thinking of getting that, or Granbergs Mini Mill. It would be nice to have edged boards, and trying to make a square cant with a regular mill is difficult i think.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

SwingOak

Quote from: tyb525 on August 17, 2008, 10:34:26 PM
I've been thinking of getting that, or Granbergs Mini Mill. It would be nice to have edged boards, and trying to make a square cant with a regular mill is difficult i think.

I bought the Granberg Mini-Mill but it's till in the box. I just haven't had time to mess with it yet.

gizmo

Quote from: tyb525 on August 17, 2008, 10:34:26 PM
I've been thinking of getting that, or Granbergs Mini Mill. It would be nice to have edged boards, and trying to make a square cant with a regular mill is difficult i think.

Another option For edged boars if you have electricity is to nail or clamp a straight 2x4 or whatever to the slab and use its edge to run your skillsaw down to give you a square cut...

tyb525

I've done that, too. But it would be nice to be able to make square beams.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

SwingOak

Quote from: gizmo on August 18, 2008, 06:33:02 PM
Quote from: tyb525 on August 17, 2008, 10:34:26 PM
I've been thinking of getting that, or Granbergs Mini Mill. It would be nice to have edged boards, and trying to make a square cant with a regular mill is difficult i think.

Another option For edged boars if you have electricity is to nail or clamp a straight 2x4 or whatever to the slab and use its edge to run your skillsaw down to give you a square cut...

Or you could spend a grand or so on a beam saw...

tripleH

 


It's a little fuzzy but large white tank is for fuel small white tank is gravity feed bar oil. In this piciture log is on mill but not set for first cut.  We have a hand crank to raise bar up to correct height. (not seen in picture).  Over lapping square tube in the center is clamped together so we could lengthen for longer bar.  We put shutoff valve on oil so we can control drip rate.


Boy I thought these pictures were more clear.  This is from the other end.  Saw carriage rolls on four metal wheels rolling down 5/8 rod welded to the top of the 12 inch I beam.  We put bicycle handle bars on it to pull or push through the cut.  It was very tiring.  We hooked 2 pullies and rope so we could pull it through.  Works pretty good.  No shortage of power form the 18 horse motor just us pulling.  I will try and get more clear pictures.

TripleH

JV

More pics please, especially of the track and the saw head mounting.  I've thought of a portable dedicated slabber and I'd like to see more of your design.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

tyb525

That looks like a really neat setup tripleH
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

JV

A couple of weeks ago I had to go to the hardware store in town.  I stopped in the parking lot and started to get out when another truck pulled in beside me and a young man jumped out, walked over to my truck, looked in the bed and asked if that was an Alaskan mill in the back.  Yep, have'nt taken it out from the last job.  Says he has some large logs he would like slabbed and asked if I would follow him just out of town to look at them.  Being somewhat curious and not one to turn down a job I said yes.  Could  be limbs or as Al Bundy used to say, "Good ol biguns."  Well, turns out to be a 36" x 13.5 foot Burr Oak and a couple of shorter 42" plus Burr Oaks.  He had tried to slab the 36" with a 20" chainsaw freehand and did'nt quite meet in the middle.   :-\

Freehand slab





1rst good cut





Ready for next





45"





Some of the slabs





Good exercise for those 85 degree days.  Lost 12 pounds and got my blood pressure down to 110 over 60 sawing this summer.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

tyb525

He must've been a brave one to try to slab it freehand  :o

Althought I have heard of guys in the tropical southern places that can freehand a slab and get it just about as good as with a mill. What size of saw is that?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

JV

It's a Stihl 084 with a 60" bar on an Alaskan 56".  It's a handful to put up on the rails.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

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