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Band mill Router Plane

Started by Kbeitz, January 25, 2018, 01:09:09 PM

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Ljohnsaw

John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

Thanks. That's a lot like what I got. When I catch up from spending so much money I'm going to buy one like this...

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

I got my clamps today...  I walked down to the mill and slapped down a BIG slab.... Looks like I don't have the room I need for my clamps. Guess I need to sleep on this one tonight. Some how I need to put my clamps on the ends and still have them adjustable. Open for ideas...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Kbeitz on March 09, 2018, 05:42:42 PMOpen for ideas...

What about using pipe clamps with the pipes running lengthwise on your mill?  Have cross pieces every 2 or 3 feet with holes drilled through.  The far end wound have a back stop on it.  Slide a piece of pipe in where needed with the screw clamp exposed.  Slide on the other end of the pipe clamp on the other side of the cross piece (this will be under the slab).  Tighten and go!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Peter Drouin

Weld the bottom of the clamp to a flat stock or C channel that will go up on the underside of the mill rails. That way they will work on any length slab and not be in the way of the mill head.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Kbeitz

This is what I came up with for a clamp for one end. I will bolt it fast to one of my cross beams.


Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

I'm not real happy with it. Looks like I need to make it float or I need to cut all my slabs square.



Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Crusarius

I agree. The float is the best option.

justallan1

Quite possibly I'm just brain-dead this morning, but what do you guys mean by "float?"
I know I'm missing the obvious here and more than likely know exactly what you mean, but I'm going with, "Y'all must just talk funny!"
Are you saying to let the board sit free on the bunks?

Ljohnsaw

I think a better word would be pivot.  A single bolt (slightly loose) in the middle so the scary teeth can match the angle of the board end.  And then if K puts  toggle handle on the bolt (like a bicycle axle quick release), he could lock it down with a little down pressure too once the board is loaded.

I would seriously consider some sort of guard on those teeth! :o  I know I would have tore up shins!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

It now floats or pivots or swivels. Now if it would get above 27f I could go out and play.



Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Now I need to make the clamp for the other end.

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Peter Drouin

I was thinking you were going pull down on the wood some. 
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

justallan1

 :D :D :D :D I knew I was missing the obvious on this. I thought you all were saying to let the board sit free.
I never even considered the clamps. :D :D :D :D OOPS!

Kbeitz

Quote from: Peter Drouin on March 11, 2018, 06:49:18 PM
I was thinking you were going pull down on the wood some.
Would love to... Got any ideas?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

simple log dog cam clamp? or even a hasp of some type? Hey you really want to get simple piece of threaded rod pulling straight down.just have it long enough you can reach under the mill and tighten it that way.

Kbeitz

I have good log dogs for logs, but I cant use them now because my big slabs have taken all the beds room. I cant hook anything on top of the slab because that's what getting cut. So this only leaves the two ends of the slab to lock down. Another problem is every slab is a different length so what ever I use one end needs to be movable. 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Question...

For those who have done router planning. Best to do climb cut or under cut for what I'm about to do? Guessing climb cut but that would pull my machine into the wood. But under cut would want to tear out chunks of wood. Whats best?

What I get from utube is undercut... Guess I'm wrong...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

After my first test cuts this weekend I came up with a design in my head for a bar clamp between bunks. Use teeth like what you made for each end then just tighten them up till it holds tight. if the teeth are angled just right as it tightens it will suck it down to the bed.

It makes sense in my head :)

Kbeitz

Quote from: Crusarius on March 12, 2018, 09:17:26 AM
After my first test cuts this weekend I came up with a design in my head for a bar clamp between bunks. Use teeth like what you made for each end then just tighten them up till it holds tight. if the teeth are angled just right as it tightens it will suck it down to the bed.

It makes sense in my head :)
So whats going to happen when you get a slab that stops right at your bunk where you need to put your clamp?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

I was actually figuring the bunk would have the one clamp connected to it then a bar clamp off that bunk. Make it float like you did and it will save a lot of headache.

If it hits the bunk on the other side I think I would have to put it in the board stretcher till it cleared the bunk :).

I dunno, still work in progress.

btulloh

What about just clamping from the face on the side away from where you're working.  After you finish about half the slab, move the clamp to the other side where you just planed?
HM126

Kbeitz

Quote from: btulloh on March 12, 2018, 09:52:21 AM
What about just clamping from the face on the side away from where you're working.  After you finish about half the slab, move the clamp to the other side where you just planed?
I thought about that but if your making your first cuts and your slab is warped on the bottom one end of the slab will raise when you move the clamps.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Kbeitz on March 11, 2018, 08:34:05 PM
Quote from: Peter Drouin on March 11, 2018, 06:49:18 PM
I was thinking you were going pull down on the wood some.
Would love to... Got any ideas?
For the "claw" end, lift the opposite end (slightly) and put it onto the claw.  When you lower the slab, it should tighten it up.  For your moveable "T" push bar/toggle clamp - just point it down slightly before you clamp and that will apply a little down pressure at that end.  IMHO, you won't need any down pressure or clamps for that matter.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 12, 2018, 09:16:04 AM
Question...
Best to do climb cut or under cut for what I'm about to do?
I found it didn't matter which way I was cutting - just a firm grip on the router!  But I've only cut Incense Cedar - pretty soft wood except for the rock-hard knots.

John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

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