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How long to kiln dry white pine slabs

Started by Pclem, January 10, 2019, 07:34:36 PM

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Pclem

I have a bunch of 2.5-4" thick white pine slabs we cut 10 years ago. they've been in a roofed drying shed since. (stickered). Pulled them out today, and look pretty good. I'm gonna make some end tables/coffee tables etc. Should I still kiln dry them even after air drying that long? I can put them in my old container firewood kiln. How long if so? I hear of 160 degrees to set the pitch, which I can obtain. Just heat them to 160 for a while? Ya, I'm pretty green. Only been drying firewood ;D
Dyna SC16. powersplit. supersplitter. firewood kilns.bobcat T190. ford 4000 with forwarding trailer. a bunch of saws, and a question on my sanity for walking away from a steady paycheck

Ianab

Got a moisture meter? Even a cheap one will give you some idea of what's going on. 

Issue is the wood has been outside, and exposed to conditions where it's only dried to maybe 12%? (Depends where you live). If you make furniture, and it comes into a centrally heated house it might have to dry out to ~6% in the winter. This means it's going to move a bit. Now as long as you design your piece to allow for that movement, which you should anyway, it won't self destruct. 

Also, pine is more forgiving, it shrinks less than most hardwoods, and is less prone to splitting, 

I'd suggest you throw the wood in there, crank up the heat for 24 hours to set the pitch and kill any bugs, then check the moisture level next day. If it's down to something sensible, under 10%, it's probably OK. As long as it's well air dry it will be hard to mess it up at this stage. 
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Southside

My experience with pine is you really don't want it any drier than 12% at 10% it starts to act up when milling it. I have had some around 7% and it was a nightmare to deal with. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

K-Guy

Hi Pclem
I would give it 2 or 3 days at 160°F to set the pitch due to the thickness of the wood. Southside is right about the moisture content but you could dry more after it's milled if you want.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

Pclem

Do you just check the moisture on the surface? I have a good delmhorst moisture meter with long and short probes. I've only used the long ones (1") for firewood. Also, "setting the pitch", is that just heating it up enough so it doesn't seep out later?
Dyna SC16. powersplit. supersplitter. firewood kilns.bobcat T190. ford 4000 with forwarding trailer. a bunch of saws, and a question on my sanity for walking away from a steady paycheck

Pclem

Quote from: Southside logger on January 11, 2019, 08:19:22 AM
My experience with pine is you really don't want it any drier than 12% at 10% it starts to act up when milling it. I have had some around 7% and it was a nightmare to deal with.
What do you mean by "act up"?
Dyna SC16. powersplit. supersplitter. firewood kilns.bobcat T190. ford 4000 with forwarding trailer. a bunch of saws, and a question on my sanity for walking away from a steady paycheck

Southside

It will tear out, chunk out, sliver, splinter, knots fall apart, and cause issues with milling. It becomes quite brittle at that MC so tongues will break off if you are making T+G, shiplap, etc. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

K-Guy

To set the pitch, you want to "cook" it for a bit to remove some of the moisture and make sure it sets up good.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

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