Help! I'm busting bands

Chuck White · March 31, 2013, 10:04:16 AM

Adjust the turnbuckle and you can make it so that it will stop completely!

The turnbuckle is inside, behind the up down motor.

If you go to WM web site, you should be able to find it and see how it adjusts blade engagement and the brake!

Be safe my friend!

Okrafarmer · March 31, 2013, 11:05:14 PM

Ok, I will have a look. Thanks. You know me, I always need a kick in the pants to fix something if it produces the way it is. Dad and I did get the band wheels adjusted to where I could install the guard on the idler wheel, though, so safety does progress around here.

GAB · April 01, 2013, 04:20:48 PM

I got an entire flat pack of bad blades (box of 15) that all broke in the weld. I broke 6 the same day. There must have been a problem at the factory when they welded these. W-M replaced the entire box. Gerald

Okrafarmer · April 01, 2013, 10:55:34 PM

Quote from: Okrafarmer on March 31, 2013, 11:05:14 PM
Ok, I will have a look. Thanks. You know me, I always need a kick in the pants to fix something if it produces the way it is. Dad and I did get the band wheels adjusted to where I could install the guard on the idler wheel, though, so safety does progress around here.

I didn't see any turnbuckle, but I did see a pad of soft material that is supposed to rest against the belt when the drive is disengaged. It think that soft material is simply worn away to where it is no longer stopping the belt. I will see if I can unbolt it and shift it over.

Nomad · April 02, 2013, 06:30:59 AM

Quote from: Okrafarmer on April 01, 2013, 10:55:34 PM
Quote from: Okrafarmer on March 31, 2013, 11:05:14 PM
Ok, I will have a look. Thanks. You know me, I always need a kick in the pants to fix something if it produces the way it is. Dad and I did get the band wheels adjusted to where I could install the guard on the idler wheel, though, so safety does progress around here.

I didn't see any turnbuckle, but I did see a pad of soft material that is supposed to rest against the belt when the drive is disengaged. It think that soft material is simply worn away to where it is no longer stopping the belt. I will see if I can unbolt it and shift it over.

The turnbuckle is for adjusting the drive belt tension. You're looking at the correct place to adjust the brake. It needs to be checked any time the drive belt is messed with. Check your owner's manual or call WM for the brake procedure; it's easy to overdo it and your brake pad may be shot anyway.

Okrafarmer · April 02, 2013, 09:16:01 AM

The blade stops eventually, usually, but that may depend on various factors such as temperature, engine idling characteristics (engine is not quite right in the head, if you know what I mean) and blade lube flow.

Jeff · April 02, 2013, 09:31:20 AM

On the older mills, there is no turn buckle to adjust the brake. You must loosen the braking belt bolts, adjust the belt, then retighten the bolts.

haywire woodlot · April 02, 2013, 10:27:20 AM

Okra, on my '92 lt40, used to have the old style fibre brake band, it was rather susceptible to breaking. I replaced it with the retrofit kit from WM, it's a preformed metal band with brake lining on it, it bolts on in place of the old one. Now the band stops dead as soon as the clutch is disengaged. The cost was less than $200, a worthwhile upgrade for older mills.

justallan1 · April 02, 2013, 05:55:02 PM

Well WoodMizer just got my business for blades! I called and explained the blades breaking on the welds and without needing to send them the broken ones first they are sending me new ones. I can get them a couple bucks cheaper elsewhere, but when you get treated like they just did me, that's who I'll do business with.
Allan

Robert Duval · April 02, 2013, 08:18:05 PM

We stopped buying blades from Hudson not long after we bought the mill from them. I deal strictly with WMresharp now. Not sure which guides the HFE21 has but if it has the same shoe type guides as the 328 oscar check them for build up. Our oscar killed 3 blades before we figured out the extra tention from the sawdust build up was snapping the welds on the blades. When you change out blades take a razorblade and use the back edge of it to scrape off the inside of the shoes where the blade rides.

Nomad · April 02, 2013, 09:06:17 PM

Quote from: Jeff on April 02, 2013, 09:31:20 AM
On the older mills, there is no turn buckle to adjust the brake. You must loosen the braking belt bolts, adjust the belt, then retighten the bolts.

Same thing on my '08 LT50. The turnbuckle is only for the main drive belt.

Grizzly · April 02, 2013, 10:19:55 PM

Quote from: kelLOGg on March 29, 2013, 05:57:15 AM
I used to break a lot of bands and then I discovered that my down pressure was too great. I corrected that and now I rarely break one. I have since also reduced the tension to the point of onset of flutter. It makes the entry kerf a little wide but settles down quickly.

Bob

ya'll talk about down pressure and it's negative effect. this is the setting of the guide wheels versus the position of the drive & idler wheels? also logmaster recommends as much as 5000psi on their mill. i haven't found any other reference to that high of a pressure anywhere else on here. any education for me?

justallan1 · April 03, 2013, 12:22:42 AM

Quote from: Robert Duval on April 02, 2013, 08:18:05 PM
We stopped buying blades from Hudson not long after we bought the mill from them. I deal strictly with WMresharp now. Not sure which guides the HFE21 has but if it has the same shoe type guides as the 328 oscar check them for build up. Our oscar killed 3 blades before we figured out the extra tention from the sawdust build up was snapping the welds on the blades. When you change out blades take a razorblade and use the back edge of it to scrape off the inside of the shoes where the blade rides.

Thanks Robert. I'll take a look at them.
Nothing against Hudson, but if I can save by just going through WM, then that's what I'm doing also.
Allan

kelLOGg · April 03, 2013, 04:51:55 AM

Quote from: Grizzly on April 02, 2013, 10:19:55 PM
ya'll talk about down pressure and it's negative effect. this is the setting of the guide wheels versus the position of the drive & idler wheels?

Yes. The guide wheels press the blade down from where it would be if there were no guide wheels at all. It is usually specified in inches not in PSI. I use 5/16".
Bob

Okrafarmer · April 03, 2013, 10:26:38 AM

Quote from: Jeff on April 02, 2013, 09:31:20 AM
On the older mills, there is no turn buckle to adjust the brake. You must loosen the braking belt bolts, adjust the belt, then retighten the bolts.

??? Hmm. Mine doesn't seem to have either a turnbuckle or a braking belt, but I shall have to examine it some more. I'll look when I get there.

Meanwhile, I've got more custom logs to saw. . . .

Jeff · April 03, 2013, 11:39:36 AM

I went out and got up under the tarp and took a few photos to show the braking belt on my mill. You tighten it by loosening the clamping bolts, adjust the belt, then re-tighten. I would have removed the sawdust so you could see better, but its froze. ;)

Chuck White · April 03, 2013, 05:49:22 PM

Jeff, your brake strap is the same as on my FIL's '92 LT40G28 manual mill, my '95 LT40HDG24 has a steel strap with a brake-pad lining!

Okrafarmer · April 04, 2013, 12:49:10 AM

Quote from: Jeff on April 03, 2013, 11:39:36 AM
I went out and got up under the tarp and took a few photos to show the braking belt on my mill. You tighten it by loosening the clamping bolts, adjust the belt, then re-tighten. I would have removed the sawdust so you could see better, but its froze. ;)

Thank you, Jeff. It would appear that my mill does not have that pulley or wheel (seen on the left hand side of the second picture) and the associated belt. I will check on my spare sawmill and see if it has one. The one I use is a 1990 and the spare parts mill is an 89.

BTW, I believe I have your old lapsider attachment now. ;)

Jeff · April 04, 2013, 10:47:53 AM

That wasn't ever mine. It was my friend Lou's. I sold it for him via the Forum.

Solomon · April 04, 2013, 11:02:13 AM

Hi folks. Haven't been on here for a while. Saw this thread and had to chime in. I have had my mill since January of 2008 and have never had a broken blade. Have I just gotten lucky and beat the odds? I have a hydraulic tentioner. Steel band wheels , using inch and a half 7/8 Munkfor blades. .o55 thick. I tighen them up to about 6000 lbs and use red diesel for lubricant. Any thoughts on this?
Now just watch, the very next time I turn the blade it will break because I'm talking about it.

Okrafarmer · April 04, 2013, 06:42:23 PM

Solomon, I don't think I've ever broken a Munkfors blade. I used some, but not enough to be an expert on them.

6,000 lbs? Really?
(I mean, I believe you, but is that what your mill manual calls for?)

Solomon · April 05, 2013, 02:06:59 PM

Quote from: Okrafarmer on April 04, 2013, 06:42:23 PM
Solomon, I don't think I've ever broken a Munkfors blade. I used some, but not enough to be an expert on them.

6,000 lbs? Really?
(I mean, I believe you, but is that what your mill manual calls for?)

Might be less than that. I pump it up till the guage says 6000. Its one of those dial guages that has hydraulic oil in it. Screws into the top of the tentioner piston.
All I know for certian is Logmaster told me to pump it up to 5500 to 6000 on the guage. Perhaps I should investigate the gauge and find out what the reading on it really means.
My band wheels are 30 inch diameter steel on steel. Baldes are inch and a half , 19 ft 1 inch..
Still have you address and a few cases of Moxie !!!!

Okrafarmer · April 06, 2013, 09:04:12 AM

Just surprised, because our Woodmizer book recommends 2200-2300 psi. My sawmill has the same sort of pressure gauge you are describing. I'm just wondering if your mill, being stressed for higher pressure, cuts flatter lumber with less dipping.

Man, I think you can order Moxie from Amazon. Cheaper shipping and a lot less trouble!

Magicman · April 06, 2013, 09:49:12 AM

Moxie would be Maximum Band Busting Pressure. ;D

Okrafarmer · April 06, 2013, 11:39:57 AM

Moxie is "Sea Foam" for humans. It's just a good thing Popeye never got ahold of it, or there might not be any thing left unbroken in the whole cartoon world.