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cutting inch and a half lumber

Started by muskoka guy, April 03, 2013, 10:24:33 PM

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Migal

Ironically this post came up today. Yes I saved Sixacresand's chart. LOL I started building a small building to store wood in,Hmmm Found out it was pretty expensive to get 3.5" nails for my nailer all I had was 3.25" and bookoo's of 3". That being said. All I had was some dead oak logs and a few black walnut. so I cut out 35 6/4x16/4 oak studs and no I still have the black walnut log  8) but ended up being pretty easy other than off loading by my self. :D I have photo cell setworks but was to set on leaving then set at 1" due to thats what I cut most for other's mabey tomorrow I will set at 1.5" If I need more Did like the oak studs.
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Chuck White

I figure my kerf like this:

I use .045" thickness bands and set at .025", so:

.045 + .025 set left + .025 set right = .095 total kerf.

So rounded off, kerf = 1/10".
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
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POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Chuck White on April 05, 2013, 07:14:07 AM
I figure my kerf like this:

I use .045" thickness bands and set at .025", so:

.045 + .025 set left + .025 set right = .095 total kerf.

So rounded off, kerf = 1/10".

You're closer to me than the rest, Chuck.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

hackberry jake

Quote from: Sixacresand on April 04, 2013, 09:05:46 PM
With help from reading this Forum, I made this chart for my LT10, which is based on a 1/8" kerth.  I have to set the head height manually and if I read the ruler correctly, then the thickness of the board is correct (or close enough to suit me).  I can mill any thickness.  I recently cut a cherry log for a guy who wanted 7/8" thick, which was not problem.  The only problem was I wanted $25 and all the guy had was twenties, so all i got was $20.  Somebody already posted on the Forum to keep plenty of change for the guys who pack big bills. LOL

 
Pretty handy chart sixacresand. I have every scale I have ever used scribbled on the walls of my sawshed.
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Brucer

I cut to whatever thickness the customer asks for. Two years ago I was cutting 5/16" material.

My business cards say "custom sawing", and that's what I do.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

GAB

For one customer I sawed some 64/4 x 64/4 out of hard maple.  For the same customer I sawed some 5/32" and 5/16" thick material for shaker boxes.  For two other customers I sawed 1/2" material for paneling.  Sawed some 3/4" thick NWC for bird houses.  My mill has 16 set points and I have a different thickness set in all of them.  The kerf is set at 1/8" in the computer.  I have never used the scales supplied with the mill and if I had to I'd have to take the books out and go to school.  Gerald
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beenthere

QuoteFor one customer I sawed some 64/4 x 64/4 out of hard maple

Is 64/4 a 16" ?  or a typo and is 6/4?
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rmack

Quote from: WDH on April 04, 2013, 08:58:29 AM
If you saw it proud by 1/8" thick and wide, and the air dry it, it will shrink pretty close to the same dimension as store bought lumber except that it won't have been planed smooth.  The big pine sawmills in the South saw green at about 1.75" maybe just a shade less, kiln dry it to 19% in one day, and plane it.

does that hold true with timbers as well?

for instance, if I cut 6x6 or 12x12 out of green logs, I would add 1/8" to have them dry close to the right size?

the foundation for a successful life is being able to recognize what to least expect the most... (anonymous)

Welder Bob
2012 LT40HDSD35 Yanmar Diesel Triple
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WDH

The wider and thicker, the more shrinkage.  1/8" is probably not enough allowance for shrinkage for a 12" wide timber.  There are shrinkage calculators that you can use to estimate the amount of shrinkage based on dimensions.
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CalebL

I also figure in 1/8" for kerf even though it is under that, it's just easier to figure when cutting.  Here is a chart I use when cutting nominal size lumber.  As discussed earlier in another thread, sometimes the lumber shrinks more or less but I haven't had anyone complain and have had several repeat customers.



 
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GAB

Beenthere:  It was not a typo 64/4 x 64/4 or 16" x 16".  The pieces were heavy.  Also had to start with fair size tree to get this size beams without wane.  Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

fishpimp

I run the .45s and my kerf seems to run around the 1/8 mark also.
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im workn on a set of calipers also from him.



 

drobertson

Fishpimp, two questions, how many ponds have you snuck into?  ;D and why did it take you so long to post that handy chart ;D   all things considered, folks with accuset or similar setworks have a "Lil" advantage in my opinion. I usually set for 1-5/8 for 2x's  and add an 1/8th for the according width for dimesional lumber.  the main consideration I have always stuck with is consistancy throughout the build, or matching the existing lumber.   david
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fishpimp

Quote from: drobertson on April 08, 2013, 09:43:29 PM
Fishpimp, two questions, how many ponds have you snuck into?  ;D and why did it take you so long to post that handy chart ;D   all things considered, folks with accuset or similar setworks have a "Lil" advantage in my opinion. I usually set for 1-5/8 for 2x's  and add an 1/8th for the according width for dimesional lumber.  the main consideration I have always stuck with is consistancy throughout the build, or matching the existing lumber.   david
answer # 1
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Okrafarmer

I've been milling pine 2X6's today. Just using the 6/4 scale. I hope that's ok. I made a few that were 8/4, and the customer decided to go smaller. Framing a small barn here, and it will probably be over-kill as it is. I am making them a whole 6" wide.
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Brucer

Quote from: rmack on April 07, 2013, 09:38:22 PM
for instance, if I cut 6x6 or 12x12 out of green logs, I would add 1/8" to have them dry close to the right size?

For flat-sawn Douglas-Fir I see about 1/2" shrinkage per foot of width. For edge grain it's about 1/4" per foot of width. That's air-drying from green wood to 10% moisture content.

A boxed-heart timber will shrink about 1/2" per foot of width, assuming checking is approximately equal on all 4 faces.

Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

rmack

Quote from: Brucer on April 09, 2013, 02:07:14 AM
Quote from: rmack on April 07, 2013, 09:38:22 PM
for instance, if I cut 6x6 or 12x12 out of green logs, I would add 1/8" to have them dry close to the right size?

For flat-sawn Douglas-Fir I see about 1/2" shrinkage per foot of width. For edge grain it's about 1/4" per foot of width. That's air-drying from green wood to 10% moisture content.

A boxed-heart timber will shrink about 1/2" per foot of width, assuming checking is approximately equal on all 4 faces.

Thanks Bruce, I'm guessing edge grain is same as quarter sawn. that's good to know... it would be awful embarrassing to cut timbers that ended up being under sized.  :D

Edit; took over night to sink in, but I think I got it, shrinkage will be different depending which direction relative to the grain. :)
the foundation for a successful life is being able to recognize what to least expect the most... (anonymous)

Welder Bob
2012 LT40HDSD35 Yanmar Diesel Triple
1972 Patrick AR-5
Massey Ferguson GC2410TLB Diesel Triple
Belsaw Boat Anchor

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