Custom Planing

[J. ODonnell]

I just had a sawyer mill out about 10,000 bd ft of lumber.  All 1" white pine boards.  I'm letting them air dry right now, but will be building next spring/summer and wanted to have some custom planing done at that time.  I only know of a couple of people in my area that will do it and was looking for a few more options.  I'm especially concerned about my 10" boards having a nice planed finish, as I will be using them for my flooring.  They're all important but 10" boards are a little pricier than the others.  I worked hard for all of them though.  At any rate, I'd appreciate any information I could get from everyone about who would do a nice job planing.  I plan to get 3/4" finished thickness out of them.  Thanks!

[Tom]

find a Millwork and explain what results you want.  Don't rely on  individuals unless you know them and their work.

[J. ODonnell]

Sorry, I forgot to mention I am from Buxton, ME, just west of Portland.

[J_T]

Why not check out the forsale board here  8) If I weren't broke I would of done bought that bellsaw planer  :'( :'( Always wanted one .  8)

[Tom]

get all of the boards planed at the same place and same time so that they are all the same thickness.  

I would be more interested in getting them as thick as I could as long as they are all the same thickness.

You may only have to plane one side if they are cut fairly evenly.

Think about cutting relief kerfs on the bottom side of the bards to relieve cupping stresses.

Using the "bark" side of flat-sawn boards as the top surface will keep you from suffering from shelling later on.  Shelling is when the growth rings separate and slivers lift from the floor.  It usually happens the worse on the pith side of the board.

I have cut wide boards for customers out of SYP and they glue them and surface nail them to a 3/4" subfloor.

These wide floors are straight edged and butt jointed.  You might want to consider tongue and groove.  In either case, acclimation is important.  After milling, leave the wood inside of the room it is to floor for a couple or three weeks.  It will be a lot more stable if it acclimates to where it is going to live.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=1321.0

[Brad_S.]

Welcome to the Forum! 8)

Given the quantity you quoted, I would suggest finding a flooring mill to straight line rip, then T&G them and add a stress relief profile in one pass. Finished width would be about 9".

[pappy]

Welcome J.

All good recomendations... Make sure the flooring is at least 8% MC before laying it down and install it in the winter months after it has acclimated for about a month...

I can do T + G flooring out to 12" wide but you're waaaay down state  :(