LT40super auto clutch

[LeeB]

Auto clutch ain't working. I could get it to work for a while by tapping on the housing but that don't work no more. Tried looking in the troubleshooting section of the manual but there is nothing about the auto clutch, only about the manual clutch. Took off the cover and blew all the dust off with compressed air, didn't help. I suspect it might be the solinoid but haven't tried jumpering it yet. It got tooo dark out. Any Ideas? LeeB

[Brucer]

Some thoughts ...

On mine the "solenoid" is a solid state MOSFET, and might not take too kindly to jumpering.

My autoclutch manual is a separate set of pages that came with the kit. Could be you have them, but in the back of your binder in the miscellaneous options section.

There's 3 conditions to check according to the troubleshooting manual.
1) Autoclutch will not stop; continues to engage and disengage.
2) Autoclutch will not engage or disengage.
3) Autoclutch will either engage or disengage, but not both.

Of these, only condition 1 indicates a faulty MOSFET module.

Two obvious things to check if it just won't move:
- Don't just "flip" the switch - push it in the direction you want it to go and hold it there. Sometimes the rubber boot around the switch keeps the contacts from engaging.
- Check the circuit breakers. On newer mills there's a big one sticking out the back of the control panel (30 Amp), and the 15 amp Accessory circuit breaker (inside the control panel) also feeds the unit.

Tell me a little more about the symptoms and I'll feed you the relevant notes from the troubleshooting pages.

[Bibbyman]

If you take the cover off that covers the motor and gearbox that works the autoclutch,  you will find it has two magnetic proximity sensors that tell it when to stop in the up and down position.  These two sensors are about the size of a Bic lighter and are mounted on the left and right side of the cam (made of aluminum as I remember) that is on the output side of the gearbox. The lower part of clutch linkage is hooked to this cam.

I've had to take a clean cloth or paper towel and clean off between the sensor and the clutch cam.

It worked for me.  8)

[LeeB]

Brucer,
           I bought the mill used and said manual was not included. The auto clutch was working and starting getting bad about engaging. Atap on the cover for the motor and gear box would get it to engage. Then it started to not want to diengage and same tap would get to disengage. Now it won't do anything.

Bibby,
         I'll try some more cleaning today. I ran out of daylight last night.
Thanks for the replies guys. LeeB

[Brucer]

I'd interpret that as case 3, being as it started off disengaging but not engaging. Two possibilities listed for that one:

- Bad sensor (the ones Bibby mentioned).
- Metal debris buildup on the sensor, causing it to stay open.

Bibby's suggestion ought to  fix the second one. That's the easiest, and seems to be the most likely.

[LeeB]

Found the problem. One of the brushes was stuck on the motor. I broke it trying to get it free. Can I take the motor apart and replace the brush after I get the brush loose or is the motor fried? Doesn't smell burnt and no direct ground. LeeB

[Brucer]

Well, so much for my troubleshooting skills. That one's listed under case 2 :(.

My parts list is for a 2006 autoclutch kit. It lists the motor assembly as part number 016021, and it also shows a "Brush Kit, Autoclutch Leeson Motor External" as PN 034002. You'd need to check that yours has a Leeson motor on it, and even then it might be best to give WoodMizer a call. The housing on my unit has a decal showing it as revision A.09 so I reckon there's quite a few different versions out there.

[LeeB]

Thanks for trying Brucer. I had a lot of stuff to do today and didn't find the culprit till after 5:00 CST so I will call WM tommorow and get another motor and some extra brushes coming. Maybe I can salvage the old motor but I'm not counting on it. LeeB

[Bibbyman]

Do you have a debarker?   I think WM uses the same little motor in a hundred applications.  You may be able to swap out the little motor that pulls the debarker in and out to run the AutoClutch.  You won't have a debarker until the new one gets in but at lest you'll be sawing. 

There is also the same motor on the dragback up/down.  It's also used on the sharpener - if you have one of these.

Ask the WM guys when you have them on the phone.

[MartyParsons]

here are a couple of revisions on these motors see note below:
A/C Revision A.08 would have a 016021 motor. When you call for your parts get a Auto Clutch manual, this will be useful when you adjust your drive belt and trouble shooting.
The debarker motor in/out is not the same as the auto clutch but will work on the blade guide arm. WM has replacement brushes for all motors on the mill.

Motor kit revised 10/01. Leeson motor 016706 replaces Leeson motor 034001 (12/00) and Owosso motor P12093 originally supplied.
Use 034002 Brush Kit for Leeson motors supplied after 12/00 (Rev. A.04). Use A12198 Brush Kit for Owosso motor originally supplied
prior to Rev. A.04.

Hope this helps!

[sparks]

Out was out yesterday so I was unable to help answer your question. 99% of the time if you tap the motor and it runs it is a stuck brush. I will go one step further and say it was the brushon the bottom of the motor when it is mounted. All the brush dust and moisture collects there and cuses the brush to stick. Brake clean works the best to clean it out since it is mostly alcohol.
I have a document I created for troubleshooting the accessories on the mill. It is to large to attach. If anyone needs it email me and I can email it to you.   Thanks

[Bibbyman]

I have a document I created for troubleshooting the accessories on the mill. It is to large to attach. If anyone needs it email me and I can email it to you.   Thanks

Is the document on the WM web site?  If so,  maybe you can post the link.

[sparks]

It is a Word document 325KB. It covers Autoclutch, Debarker, LubeMizer. It is a flow chart format and is in color. I can email it to you if you think you can post it. It says the file is to large to post here.   Thanks

[LeeB]

Sparks,
            It was indeed the bottom brush. Do you think the motor is salvageable? I ordered a new motor this morning and a set of brushes to try and save the old one for a spare. LeeB

[wwsjr]

Sparks,

Please email the document to me. Email address is on profile.

Thanks,

wwsjr

[gmmills]

Lee,

    Carefully take the motor apart and clean it up good. Take note of the orientation of the end caps to the center section. I'll bet you can save this motor with just a new set of brushes. I've had many of these little dc motors apart. Really straight forward design. Most common cause of problems is dirt and brush dust in the internal housing. The only bearing related failure that I have seen was the wheel motor for the WM sharpener. At least if you take it apart and find it is totally beyond repair you will know what the internal parts look like.   

[LeeB]

After 12 years my auto clutch has gone out again. Haven't had time to troubleshoot it yet. Actually had forgotten about this old thread. Gives me a good reference on where to start.

[LeeB]

After doing the smack test and the the auto clutch started working, I think it's safe to assume I have the same problem again. Time to open it up and do some cleaning.