LT40 changing blade type, WM sharpener changes required?

[amberwood]

Evening all.
Until now I have only worked the LT40 on green pine but look like I have some work resawing salvaged hardwoods on an hourly rate. For those on this side of the world Jarrah and Ironbark will mean something for everyone else it will be VERY HARD. I will prob need to invest in some different blades.

At present I am set up(have inherited with the saw) a large collection of 9deg WM blades and the WM sharpener is curr set up to suit these blades.
Am I correct in assuming that (seeing as the gear is not nearby and I cant look for myself) the WM sharpener angle can be simply rotated around the suit the particular blade in use? or is a matter of changing over the diamond wheel to suit the differing blade angle/gullet?

Of course any opinions or heresay on the subject of salvage resawing would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
DTR

[logwalker]

When you lay the head down or raise it all of the profile changes with it. You may need to change the cam if you want to maintain the profile to original specs. But you might get real close by just shaping the wheel. Woodmizer will have an opinion I am sure. Maybe sparks can help. Joe

[amberwood]

Just spoke to the WM rep over here..prob easiest option if the 9deg are no good with a reduced feed speed is to try the 4deg and change the sharpener wheel.

After that we are into the black art of blade tooth modifications, carbide /stellite etc etc etc.

Fingers crossed.

DTR

[sparks]

We have a cam the is the profile match for the different blades we sell. For a 10 degree blade you will need a cam stamped 10/30, for a 9 degree blade you need a cam stamped 9/29. If you are going to be cutting hardwoods that are very dry you will want to use the 9 degree blade. The 4 degree would be good in very knotty softer woods that have been down a awhile. The angle of the wheel is set with an angle gauge on the grinder motor. The gauge is supplied with the sharpener. Thanks