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Load of logs now need blades help

Started by LoneDuck, October 23, 2017, 10:00:07 PM

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crowhill

All the knots intertwined is what makes it strong🤡.
TimberKing B-20, Kubota M-4900 w/FEL with tooth bar, hyd thumb and forks, Farmi winch, 4 chain saws.

smoker62

Anyone try the Ripper 37 blades in Pine ? I have all tall straight Red Pine on my property and just purchased a sawmill. Have yet to try it out but I bought some Rippers from Jerrys Resharp , hell of a nice guy .

crowhill

I just tried some. My saw sharp guy made them up for my B20 to saw EWP and I'm very happy.
TimberKing B-20, Kubota M-4900 w/FEL with tooth bar, hyd thumb and forks, Farmi winch, 4 chain saws.

crowhill

I would not use it in any beams for my buildings. With all the knots it can't
be strong...

My grandfather(s) used to make the runners for their log scoots out of spruce, "shoe" them with iron wood, yellow birch or rock maple and the bunks were made of oak. They were pretty rugged sleds.
TimberKing B-20, Kubota M-4900 w/FEL with tooth bar, hyd thumb and forks, Farmi winch, 4 chain saws.

Chuck White

Quote from: Kbeitz on October 27, 2017, 12:00:16 PM
Quote from: Chuck White on October 27, 2017, 08:37:40 AM
Spruce makes good framing material & beams, the trick is to cut it straight!   ;)

I would not use it in any beams for my buildings. With all the knots it can't
be strong...

To each their own, but the knots in Spruce are usually quite small and wouldn't affect strength very much!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

crowhill

There are many old barns and sheds standing in New England with a lot of spruce in the framing. I think the biggest issue of using spruce is the tendency of it to rot quickly from moisture. Even when used in log scoots for runners one didn't want to leave it out in the weather unused for long.
TimberKing B-20, Kubota M-4900 w/FEL with tooth bar, hyd thumb and forks, Farmi winch, 4 chain saws.

Kbeitz

I had to make some stickers today... All with knots just fell apart.

No. 1 Common. Highest quality of common lumber. No. 1 Common lumber will have a few small, tight knots.
No. 2 Common. Has larger knots than found in No. 1 Common. No. 2 is often used for paneling and shelving and is suitable for general woodworking projects.
No. 3 Common. Has more and bigger knots than No. 2. The wood is typically damaged and blemished. Well-suited for fences, boxes, and crates.

Select Structural. Pretty much clear of knots. The knots that do exist are small and tight. Strongest of the four grades.
No. 1. Small, tight knots up to 1-1/2" allowed. Loose knots can only be 1" wide and can only appear once every 3 feet.
No. 2. Well-spaced knots of any quality up to 2" wide. Can have knotholes that are 1-1/4" wide every 2 feet.
No. 3. Knots of any quality can be up to 2-1/2" wide. Knotholes allowed every 1-3/4" foot.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

hturner12

Quote from: smoker62 on October 29, 2017, 11:30:23 AM
Anyone try the Ripper 37 blades in Pine ? I have all tall straight Red Pine on my property and just purchased a sawmill. Have yet to try it out but I bought some Rippers from Jerrys Resharp , hell of a nice guy .
Yes he is. I was by there last week. He gave me a  couple  to try. He also gave me the name of a shop very close to my house. I like the fact I do not have to  buy 15 at a time and he makes them on  site
Hugh
Ezbordwalk Jr

Bruno of NH

I use Jerry for bands and like the Ripper 37's in 7° he also has Kasco's in 4° if you ever need the 4°
The Ripper 37's perform great on my mill and can't beat the price.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

logs2lumber

Quote from: Sixacresand on October 25, 2017, 10:17:52 PM
Quote from: LoneDuck on October 24, 2017, 08:50:45 PM
Great info guys. When I bought my mill, it came with 30 or 40 blades and I've no clue what they are. All I now is they are wood mizer and I've been having them sharpen them. In the future I would like to keep records and start to see what works best but not knowing I'm sawing blind.
A gauge from WM can help you determine what degree blade you have.


 
Do Happen to know the Part number for the Degree Gauge?

ladylake

Quote from: Chuck White on October 29, 2017, 08:38:39 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 27, 2017, 12:00:16 PM
Quote from: Chuck White on October 27, 2017, 08:37:40 AM
Spruce makes good framing material & beams, the trick is to cut it straight!   ;)

I would not use it in any beams for my buildings. With all the knots it can't
be strong...

To each their own, but the knots in Spruce are usually quite small and wouldn't affect strength very much!

Plus the knots  are spaced out real good, not in a group like red pine.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ladylake

  After Simonds ruined their 3/4 pitch Red Streak blades I've tried Lennox 7/8   Kasko 3/4  Kasco 7/8  Dakin Flather 7/8 rippir 37  Dakin Flathers 3/4 Ripper s.  I think my favorite is going to be the Dakin Flather ripper s 3/4 sharpened to 4 degrees, they cut nice and straight pushing hard .  You will have no trouble cutting pine straight plus they cut spruce real nice under 12" and on a 20" cut just a hair of  a wave that will plane out on the first pass.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

barbender

How did Simonds ruin their 3/4 blades, Steve?
Too many irons in the fire

ladylake

 
 Their using different material and made the gullet deeper, I didn't even try them but a mill south of did and he said they are junk, wont cut straight . Both of us had been running 3/4 pitch Simomds Red Streak for years. He is the reason I tried 3/4 Simonds and found them to be the straightest cutting blades until now. I was just out cutting large WO with the 3/4 Dakin Flathers and they're working good.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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