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SAWMILL COMPARISON, WOODLAND VS. TIMBERY

Started by Jmiller160, March 28, 2017, 04:18:30 PM

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Jmiller160

Im building a log home for my wife and five kids, im looking for a affordable sawmill.. im looking at a woodlands hm126 with 9.5 hp engine and adding 2 track extensions, also looking at a timbery m100 with 14 hp engine with 2 track extensions..was wondering if anyone had any experience with either of these mills and any suggestions?

Savannahdan

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.  I looked at both of those last year before I got the opportunity to buy a Cook's MP-32 which I sold earlier this year for health reasons.  I liked the Woodland mainly for it's 4 post design.  It also offers a nicer log clamp.  If you need a larger motor you'll have to bump up to the HM130, which has some nice features such as stainless coverings on the bunks.  But, I've not personally had experience with either of these.  Sure some folks will jump in shortly.
Dan
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

Jmiller160


fishfighter

I have the 126 and I been very happy with it the last two years. Don't know anything about the other.

Jmiller160

does the track seem good and strong?  will it do the diameter log it claims?

ChugiakTinkerer

Welcome to the forum!

An option instead of buying track extensions is to fashion your own rail from 20' angle iron and rectangular tube.  That would be less expensive if you have the tools and the skills to make it happen.  You would also not get the additional log clamp that comes with each extension.

My HM130 is the only mill I've ever used so I can't compare workmanship to other brands.  The HM130 impressed me with how massive it is.  I think the HM126 has similar rails, just lacks the stainless cap on the bunks.
Woodland Mills HM130

ChugiakTinkerer

If you update your profile to indicate where you hail from, folks might be able to point you to local resources for finding and using a sawmill.
Woodland Mills HM130

goose63

Welcome to the Jmiller160 Ican't tell you any thing abought the Timbery but I have the Woodland 126 and it works great.

I have had some mighty big log's on it trim and turn trim and turn got them down to a 19 inch bord. and yes the tracks are strong hope this help's.

If you have any questons send me a pm will be glade to help any way I can     
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

fishfighter

Quote from: Jmiller160 on March 28, 2017, 05:51:50 PM
does the track seem good and strong?  will it do the diameter log it claims?

They are fine. Now the log bunks, I bent two of them. My fault dropping 4K+ logs down on the deck. :D To fix, I just swapped them out with the end bunks.

When you set up the mill, just make sure you do have a Good base that is level.

Ga Mtn Man

Welcome to the forum jMiller160.  There are a number of Timbery owners on the forum and I'm sure they will chime in soon.  If you do a forum search on "Timbery" you should find all of their relevant posts.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Jmiller160

Thanks for the feed back, I'm really leaning heavy toward the woodlands their customers support seems good, they have answered every message I've sent them and so far timbery hasn't answered any...and I've found far more reviews for the woodlands the timbery doesn't seem to have too munch info

fishfighter

Yes, Woodland does have great support after the sale. If one person can't answer a question, they will get some one else on the phone that can.

Jmiller160

I haven't purchased yet but they have been very quick to answer all my questions...timbery on the other hand ..I've sent a message last week and yesterday and still have yet to receive an answer...I think I read the woodmizer owned timbery which is a plus in my mind..the M100 does look similar to the WM LT10 and I could get it with a 14hp engine..but the woodlands looks well built and the simplistic track looks like it would be easier to replicate...decisions..decisions..lol.  but I can't wait to get a mill...I  have no idea how to use it but I'm excited..

btulloh

If you do get the Woodland Mills, go ahead and get at least one section of track extension.  The flat rate shipping on the mill will cover the extra track as well. You can make your own, but the cost of materials and fab time makes the factory track extensions a pretty good value when there's no shipping cost.

The angle iron they use has the running edge milled down.  Something to consider if you're supplying your own angle iron.  Depends on your situation. 

Good luck with your decision and your sawmilling.  It sounds like you're ready to catch the fever and the only cure is making sawdust.
HM126

Ox

My vote is for Woodland Mills.  I've heard nothing but good about them and they're also a sponsor to this forum!  Click the link on the left.  :)  Besides, if I was trying to sell sawmills you can be sure I'd be answering all questions in a timely fashion.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Jmiller160

I figured the same , ive messaged them on facebook and email, the only thing I haven't done is call them but I don't like talking to a salesman until im ready to buy and nowadays its easier to shoot a message than to wait around on the phone.

MartyParsons

Hello,
   We sell Timbery at our location and customers are happy with them. Not sure what questions you need answered. Be more specific and I will try to answer the questions you may have.
Timbery are made in USA.

Hope this helps.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Jmiller160

Mainly how wide is the track, what gauge is the steel used to make it?

im not close by enough to anywhere that sells them to go check one out

mattyo5

I upgraded from the hm126+1 extension to 30 ft rails fabbed from angle iron.  3"x4" by 1/4" thick is usually available most any steel place.  My 30 footers were $400ish delivered.  I kinda wish I had the full 40 footers at this point.   sure is nice to be able to put a log wherever. 

woodland does have nice customer support...and I'm doing lots of maintenance and upgrades on my youtube channel.   I don't think there is a better mill for the $$ ...  if I did it again, i'd probably for the the hm130 at this point.  I can drop a bigger motor on my 126 easy...just haven't done it. 
Woodland Mills HM126 Sawmill - modded
Husqvarna 385xp rebuilt and ported
Husqvarna 372xp rebuilt and ported
2x Husqvarna 350 ...rebuilt and ported
Hitachi CS33etdb top handle saw

bags

I went with the HM130 cause of the bigger engine and I'm glad I did. The market around here I cut for is furniture and interior paneling and I need a wide cut. I don't bother much with any timbers under 18".

I extended my track with 3"X4"X1/4" angle by 20'--- so I can mill 30' lumber.

Woodland has great support--- if it were me--- I'd go with the folks that give a *stuff about ya.

Jmiller160

Timberly actually contacted me back today, according to what they're telling me, I can get the m100 with 14 hp engine and 10 foot of extra track he also said it would cut a 22 inch wide board not sure what the woodlands will do , the both cut 26 diameter...still don't know what to do

Briankinley2004

Woodland hm130 will do 30" log 22" wide can't. 14 hp Koehler

mattyo5

just a quick look, the woodland mills hm130 looks much heavier for  only a few extra bucks... 

i'd go with the woodland again
Woodland Mills HM126 Sawmill - modded
Husqvarna 385xp rebuilt and ported
Husqvarna 372xp rebuilt and ported
2x Husqvarna 350 ...rebuilt and ported
Hitachi CS33etdb top handle saw

plantman

I've heard good things about Woodland Mills but here's another one you should take a close look at.
http://www.ezboardwalk.com/home
The first time I saw this mill I skipped over it but after a few people recommended it I looked closer and realized it was a stronger more "no nonsense" mill that will do more for the money.
I'd like to get a swingblade mill for a number of reasons. First they produce dimensional lumber very quickly. Their cut is straight . They save you a fortune on the cost of blade sharpening. You can more easily cut quarter sawn wood. They can handle big logs which I get in my area. The bad part is that they are expensive and the one I'm considering is not easily portable.
The long and short of it is that if I were looking for something under $5k I would go with the EZ Boardwalk because it's built like a tank, it cuts bigger logs, and all the wearable items are stronger and cheaper than the other mills.  I'm not affiliated with them , I just like to share my opinion after spending quite a bit of time looking into these mills.

Jmiller160

Thanks for the advise, I  looked at the ez boardwalk it's a nice mill

ChugiakTinkerer

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the mills you've mentioned.  I'm cheap so my decision was based on the lowest cost to my door for the size and features I wanted.

Understand though that the mill is just the price of the movie ticket.  You'll still need to pay for popcorn, soda, Milk Duds, car parking, babysitter, etc.   :o
Woodland Mills HM130

fishfighter

Another thing to think about is ready replacement parts like bearings and belts. I can buy everything local for my woodland mill. If I have to order, I get things next day. Only had to order belts once overnight. Guild bearing, only replaced one set in over two years.

Jmiller160

Thanks, I've been talking to timbery the last 2 days, they are actually located in Indiana, that's only 4 hour from here and their replacement parts actually run cheaper than woodland, and he got my shipping cost down below woodlands...but I'm still not ready to pull the trigger..I'm still not settled in my mind...I'm very indecisive...lol

plantman

Quote from: Jmiller160 on March 30, 2017, 07:59:54 PM
Thanks, I've been talking to timbery the last 2 days, they are actually located in Indiana, that's only 4 hour from here and their replacement parts actually run cheaper than woodland, and he got my shipping cost down below woodlands...but I'm still not ready to pull the trigger..I'm still not settled in my mind...I'm very indecisive...lol

I know where you're coming from. I've been shopping for months and still can't make up my mind. I spent a good part of today looking at the Turbo Saw's swingblade mills and I'm very impressed but it's a lot of money if you're just going to make a hobby out of it. I'd be hesitant to buy a bandsaw mill just because of the time and expense of the blades. Perhaps if I were milling tall straight spruce logs ( very soft wood ) which were only 18 - 24" wide a bandsaw would make sense but in my area I have lots of tree services getting rid of big oak logs that are hard to move around and wouldn't fit on most bandsaw mills. That's why I'm looking at the swingblade mills.

Jmiller160

I'll be milling tall straight poplars...and most of the sawyers around here run bandsaw and do good with them.

jtimbermill

I just purchased the timbery m285 and the sales people and the sales rep were more than helpful even gave me an 800.00 rebate after I had made the purchase because 2 days after I bit the bullet they had their spring sale.  So far I am happy with the construction and the way it cuts it has plenty of power and have made a pile of sawdust cutting oak and cedar.  I used the rebate to get an extension to cut up to 24' and the log loading package. If you have any specific questions I'll be happy to give you my opinion.  But first I like the fact the sawdust isn't blown out on your feet, I thought I might have an issue the the ceramic guides but they seem to do very well.  I have loaded logs so heavy ie an oak 21 feet long and 20" at the base without any problem and cut a 6"×6"×21' post the quarter scale is very accurate but I did spend several hours going over the entire machine and making sure the bed was as straight as possible there are a couple things I would improve but overall I am very pleased.

Ga Mtn Man

Wow, you sure didn't let any grass grow under your feet with that decision.  Congrats on the new mill!  We love pics.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Magicman

Congratulations jtimbermill on the new sawmill, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum Family.

Pictures would be nice.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Jmiller160

I've actually been emailing timbery for a couple days and I think I might be ready to pull the trigger on the m100 with the 14hp engine and 21 feet of track..the salesman gas been really helpful....still can't get the woodlands completely off my mind though...lol

Jmiller160

Jtimbermill I would like you to keep us updated with that mill, if I had the money I would go with the m285 but since I'm just starting out I better stick with the basic model..

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on April 03, 2017, 09:30:26 PM
Wow, you sure didn't let any grass grow under your feet with that decision.  Congrats on the new mill!  We love pics.

Jtimberrmill, I thought you were Jmiller160 when I posted this.  But still, congrats on the new mill.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

hilltop67

I am new here also and looking at getting a timbery m100.  I was curious as to how they have been for current owners? Jmiller and jtimbermill?

Jmiller160

i finally pulled the trigger and purchased my Woodlands HM126 yesterday.. I had a hard time deciding .. the biggest thing that helped me decide is that i went to order the timbery and they had a 4 week back order.. i was so on the fence that i just fell off the other direction..lol

all woodland owners what is the brands of blades that you like?

ChugiakTinkerer

I'm using Kasco 4 degree blades.  Can't say how they compare to others because the only other blade I used was the one that came on the mill.  Great price on a box of 15 blades.  I bought direct from Kasco but I'd suggest contacting Cutting Edge and see if they still do blade sharpening.

Welcome to the forum hilltop67!
Woodland Mills HM130

btulloh

I bought a box of the Lennox 10 degree with the HM126 and they were OK for SYP and soft stuff but not well suited to oak and such.  I bought a box of Kasco 7's and they saw better in both than the 10 degree Lennox.  I had a couple welds in the Lennox batch that were not perfectly aligned.  Don't know who welds the blades you get from Woodland Mills.  I have seen no welding issues with the Kasco's and I'm very happy with them.  Those two are the only ones I've tried.  I'm planning to get a box of Kasco 4's for sawing dried lumber.
HM126

JD Picket

I have the Woodland HM 126. I have done a lot of work to mine to get it to how I want it. I have to say it is a great starting point to build on and modify to how you want it. I replaced the blade guides with guides from Cooks. I mounted mine to a trailer so it was on a ridged frame and easy to move around. I also added a toe board to help level logs. I also moved the ruler as I call it because with it on the trailer it was hard to read and I wasn't getting consistent cuts. The 10 degree Lenox blades do raise and dive when hitting knots in pine. I also bought Kasco 4 degree blades from Richard at Cutting Edge. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet. I have been slacking on posting pictures of all of my modifications I have done. Maybe with the rain I'm going to be getting Saturday I will have the time to post them all. Hope you enjoy your mill. One recommendation I can give you is the check the mill in the packaging before you accept it. It will save you a lot of time and headaches.

JD

Magicman

 You Woodland Mills owners are gonna have to form your own "Owners Group".  Oh that's right, you already have one.....it's called the Forestry Forum!!   8)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

ChugiakTinkerer

Quote from: JD Picket on May 11, 2017, 06:15:12 PM
...
One recommendation I can give you is the check the mill in the packaging before you accept it. It will save you a lot of time and headaches.

JD

I'll second that.  My mill travelled pretty far and there was some damage to one of the cardboard boxes.  Upon assembly I was short a couple of nuts and a bolt.  Probably fell out of the packaging of the damaged box and they were trivial to replace from my stash.  I took some photos just in case but accepted the package with a note on the shipping manifest that it was damaged en route.  It all came together nicely though, with but one broken cover latch.   The folks at Woodland Mills were quick to send me a replacement right away.
Woodland Mills HM130

fishfighter

When I got my 126 in, everything was there and had it up in sawing in a days time.

Contacted Woodland last Monday. I started getting wavy cuts. There is a thread about that. Anyway, there is a good chance that it is the tension adjustment that there is a new up grade replacement part to fix it. My mill is out of warrant, BUT, Woodland is sending me FREE replacement parts. Now that is service after the sale. My hat is off to Woodland. They stand behind their products. ;D

JD, I would like to see how you added toe boards. My mill is on a trailer too that I built. Also added power feed to the saw for tracking( wheelchair motor).



 

Oh, forgot to add that once I finish my mill shack, I will be building a complete new rail bed fixed in place. I will keep the old one still on the trailer. That way if I need to do a road trip, I still can. ;D

Jmiller160






Finally got my mill and got it up and running...thanks for all the insight

btulloh

Congrats on getting setup and rolling.  Keep us posted on your progress with the mill and the logs for your build.
HM126

Jmiller160


fishfighter

 Congrats and watch those back stops. Something I need to do is paint some marker lines at 3" and at 5 ". That way when I saw 2x4's or 2x6's, I could preset them. Just never got around doing that.  :( That would of saved me a bunch of blades, I think.  ;D Just a heads up. You will want to get it up higher off the ground and your back will thank you. :D Been there, done that. :D Oh, another thing. Screw down the adjustable feet to your cribbing. Loading loads, I had knocked my mill off the base cribbing. :o

From this.



 

To this



 

My back thank me. :D

Jmiller160

I really want to put it on a trailor, if you don't mind me asking , about how much did it cost?

Roundhouse

I've had my HM130 for over a year now, I don't have many hours on it yet but am very satisfied with both how it performs and with the support I've received from Woodland Mills. I've recently updated my buy/build thread that details everything from delivery to getting it set up in its own shed.

I didn't want to build a trailer from scratch, instead purchasing a new pontoon trailer and reworking it to meet my needs. The result is a very stable setup and mobility when I want it. There are a lot of good mills out there but for me the cost and capacity of this one hit the "sweet spot" for me.

Woodland Mills HM130, 1995 F350 7.3L, 1994 F350 flatbed/crane, 1988 F350 dump, Owatonna 770 rough terrain forklift, 1938 Allis-Chalmers reverse WC tractor loader, 1979 Ford CL340 Skid Steer, 1948 Allis-Chalmers B, 1988 Yamaha Moto-4 200, various chain saws

ChugiakTinkerer

Woodland Mills HM130

plowboyswr

Quote from: Jmiller160 on May 31, 2017, 01:44:39 PM
I really want to put it on a trailor, if you don't mind me asking , about how much did it cost?
That all depends on how much scrounging you're willing to do. This followed me home this past weekend. $100 couldn't go wrong. 

 
Just an ole farm boy takin one day at a time.
Steve

Jmiller160

No doubt, but I've never had any luck finding good deals like that

plowboyswr

I had to do a lot of searching on lots of different sites before I found it. Kbeitz would also tell ya to look at boat trailers. Which I was doing also. The one I got happened to be an old double framed truck frame with the truck springs still on it, way too much springs for the regular 6000 lbs rated axel under it. But it has 18' of deck as it sits right now. It's going to take quite a bit of work to get to where I want but it's a start.
Just an ole farm boy takin one day at a time.
Steve

fishfighter

Quote from: Jmiller160 on May 31, 2017, 01:44:39 PM
I really want to put it on a trailor, if you don't mind me asking , about how much did it cost?

Think I have about $150 in it, That was for two new tires and a few pieces of metal. Had most of the metal on hand. If I would of bought everything(metal) total cost would of been around $500.

ChugiakTinkerer

FF, do I recall correctly that yours is from an old travel trailer?  That's another way to get an axle and frame, as long as you have the time and inclination to strip off everything else.  Relic trailers can often be had for not much more than the cost to haul them off.
Woodland Mills HM130

Jmiller160

I have an old trailor with a good axle and about 60% good metal, I'm hoping to get it worked out that way.

fishfighter

Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on June 02, 2017, 02:53:39 PM
FF, do I recall correctly that yours is from an old travel trailer?  That's another way to get an axle and frame, as long as you have the time and inclination to strip off everything else.  Relic trailers can often be had for not much more than the cost to haul them off.

No, mine is all welded up. The travel trailer is a log trailer. ;D

fishfighter

Quote from: Jmiller160 on June 08, 2017, 10:47:33 AM
I have an old trailor with a good axle and about 60% good metal, I'm hoping to get it worked out that way.

When you build it, I had installed 1"x1" tubing that is bolted to the trailer frame. The track is bolted to the tubing. Reason, I was able to add shims to make sure the track was level. To do that, level out the trailer first, them shim from there.

Also, when welding the trailer. Weld just a little at a time and then flip the trailer over and weld. Once all welded, use a string line to see if all is straight. If you have a hump, weld a heavy bead  on the other side of the hump. That will draw out the hump.

JD Picket

Sorry it took me so long to post the pictures of the toe board I built. It's operated by a 2500 pound wench.  It's made from scraps I had laying around. I got the bearings from Amazon. (Hope I can say that)

You also see where I left the adjustable feet on the mill frame so I can make adjustments to the mill frame or replace any pieces that get damaged. 

I also relocated the scale so I could see it better. I'm not very tall so where it originally was mounted was hard from me to accurately read and make adjustments.

Hope this gives some of you Woodland Mill owner some help/ideas.



  



 



  



 

fishfighter

Got any close up pictures of your toe board? I need to build one.

highlandsaw

Good choice on the Woodland. Have had mine since 2014. Very happy with how it mills and the support I have had when I had a question.

Southwood

I would shop around, I have a woodland mills hm126 & have had nothing but problems. I bought it 2 years ago for building a workshop & a timberframe cabin. So far I haven't started anything because of all my problems. It's been 2 years and woodland is still troubleshooting it & keep having me try new parts & we are getting no where. Save yourself time & stress & shop around. If I could do it all over again I would have bought a woodmizer lt10 for only a $1000 more.

hilltop67

I ended up pulling the trigger on a timbery m100 last spring.  I was able to take advantage of a dealer rebate and liked that it could cut a 22"cant which was larger than the woodlands 126.  Prices between the two were very close and that was what tipped the scales for me.  I was able to get creative and cut up a 30" hickory log so the 26" max is just a suggestion  ;)  I haven't had any major problems but timbery has been great when ordering blades.  They are at my door super fast (within 2 days) and very affordable.  I think it was 165 for 10.  I have more recently gotten an extention to be able to cut 16 feet.  I really don't like moving 16' material but I wanted to saw beams and posts for a barn so I was stuck...lol   I would guess I have between 75-100 hrs sawing so far.  Mostly for myself but I have done a little for others.  I have heard good things about woodland but I am happy with the timbery. 

jtimbermill

I don't know much about the woodland Mills other than there videos I've seen. I have  a timbery m285.  I like the portability of my saw I added an extra length so I can cut up to 24'.  I have put a 23' x24" white oak on the mill and it handled it well with no deflection. I use the log loading attachment and it had no problems rolling anything up the ramps and on the bed.  The mill is well built, I beams, 4 post carriage and I got the large 23 hp Subaru engine and it has plenty of power I love the ceramic guides they are much like the guides on my Laguna HD16 bandsaw the blade never gets hot so I haven't had any issue with pitch buildup like so many sawmills have and I am able to extend my blade sharpness and life. So for the money I personally believe it is well worth it. All and all I am very happy with the saw yes it is hard work but I enjoy the exercise. That being said here are a few cons, I wish the water tank was removable for two reasons ease of filling and I wouldn't have to drain it when the weather gets below freezing I'd just take it inside. The water auto cut off doesn't work well so I just bypassed it and use the valve. I guess if those are the cons it's a nice mill. I have about 9000.00 and with the project I have already done it has paid for itself probably twice and I've had it almost 1 year. It is very accurate as long as you set it up right the scale is nice and I use a laser to help with set up and make sure it is level and can get a 23' log perfectly straight and square

jtimbermill

Hilltop67: after using your mill are there any changes you would make. Sorry I never responded to your first post been busy making sawdust lol. I agree with you timbery has fast and respectful service I recently purchased the lap siding attachment and got it in about 3 days, it works well but I had to do a minor modification.  I plan on taking video and sending it to timbery so they can solve the issue. I'd post pictures but haven't figured out how yet.

hilltop67

jtimbermill

No need to apologize, I would rather make sawdust than sit at a computer too.  There is one thing I modified on my mill and that was with the water drip system.  I didn't like the hose that went from the tank to the blade because I had little control over the amount of water coming out and I wanted it to drop vertically onto the blade.  I added a 90 deg bend where the hose dumps water onto the blade.  I also added another valve to the line so 1 valve can be on/off and the other is calibrated to drip water.  That way I can just turn the on/off and not have to mess with having too much or not enough water. 
I didnt think of having a tank that was removeable, I am running windhshield washer fluid right now because its always below freezing.  I just leave it in the tank with no worries.

I would love to see your siding jig, i have been tempted to get one and see if I could modify it to fit the m100. 

jtimbermill

If I could figure out how to post pictures I'd put the lapsider on, along with many other sawmill pics. I'd say you could come see it if you were close to Heber Springs Arkansas. I think I'll steal your extra valve idea for the water.

hilltop67

I will get a pic of my tube and valve setup.  I would rather have a needle valve on one of them to have better control but right now I have 2 ball valves ( it was the only ones I could find at the time)  A trip to Arkansas would be fun event better if I could figure add it into my spring break trip as a write off   :D

Jack S

 

 

 

When I got my norwood lm29 the first thing I did was add a 12 volt solenoid valve and a micro switch. Adding needle valve would also make it easier to fine adjust the flow as Hilltop67 suggested. This was an easy mod to do and less than $20

jtimbermill

Jack S
Very clean looks good I like the idea. Did you put a switch on the handle so it closes when you finish the cut and let off. Where did you get your parts?

jtimbermill

Jack S
Sorry I see the micro switch had to blow the pic up, good job great idea

Jack S

Jt I bought the parts off ebay. really simple. wastes no water easy on the norwood with the throttle up  handle bar

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