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Sawing a $50 sheet of Oak Veneer

Started by D._Frederick, February 08, 2010, 02:55:01 PM

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D._Frederick

My project requires me to saw up a 4 x 8 sheet of veneer. I will saw it on my Powermatic with a 72 tooth blade, but the bottom of the cut always have some splinters.

I suppose a $200 - $300 blade would help, but it won't happen. Any suggestions to get a better cut?

SwampDonkey

The insert on the table top around the blade might not be flush with the table and possibly not close as it could be to the blade on all 4 sides. Try making a home made one from a 1/2" sheet of plywood and cut the hole out by raising the blade up through it. See if that works any to cut down on tear. Maybe even score the pencil line with a utility knife before ripping.

Helps with stacked daddo blades.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Tom

I've heard it recommended to place a backer board of scrap against the good board to stop splintering too.

Perhaps another sheet of plywood beneath the  expensive veneer, if you can keep it tight. You might even experiment with gluing one to it temporarily.

SwampDonkey

I must say, that's pretty cheep veneer compared to here. Shop grade 1/2" Oak alone is $80 a sheet.  But so isn't yellow birch. :o
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

bedway

Put masking tape on the bottom side of the cut. This helps reduce the tearout greatly.

pigman

What the others have said plus only raise the blade just high enough to cut through the material.
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

John Bartley

Do two passes per cut. The first pass is a scoring pass with the blade raised just enough to score the substrate, The second cut is thru' and thru'. A sharp blade is just assumed.....

cheers

John
Kioti DK35HSE w/loader & forks
Champion 25hp band mill, 20' bed
Stihl MS361
Stihl 026

beenthere

Plywood does need a sharp blade, as well as a virgin insert in the table top. Sawing across the grain on the face plies will be the hardest ones to make without some splintering.

How thick is the panel?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Larry

Brand new zero clearance insert for the saw and masking tape on the top.  Use the blue kind and when you remove it pull at a angle slowly.  Also make sure your rip fence is aligned to the blade...if it is pinching a bit at the back it will pull splinters on the crosscut no matter what you do.  I normally also run a splitter.


Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

D._Frederick

The Sheet is 3/4 - and bought from home depot, it is red oak and cost $40 + two 3/4 inch dowels for a total of $50 when I looked at the recipt. Other hard wood were in the $55 -$60 range. Prices are down because there is no building.

I have a new insert that I haven't cut the blade a thru, will give it a try on some scrap.

I forget the article I was reading, but some guy had wrote in saying to spray rubbing alochol on the cut line were the saw comes out and that it soften the wood fiber so that it cuts better. Has any one tried this?

I know that scoring works, has anyone bought a scoring blade add on for the Powermatic or Delta? Which way would run the board thru to score, teeth coming out or into the board?



















Don_Papenburg

I think that the scoring blade turns in the opposite direction of the main blade.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

D._Frederick

I cut-up my sheet of veneer and used my new zero clearance saw insert, found that a better job was done on the bottom of the sheet than on the top. I had the saw raised about 3/8 of an inch above the cut. The quality of the cuts require no further work.

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