ash is now my least favorite wood to cut.

[Tom L]

had to cut 1500 brd ft of ash over the weekend, gave me fits at first. ran a 7 degree 045, lasted one log, ran a 7 degree turbo, lasted three cuts, then switched over to 1-1/2 blades, adjusted the rolls, put on new band wheel covers, the first 10 degree 1-1/8" spacing 055 lasted one log,
the buildup of hard sap on the blade was constant , even with full coolant running and an occasional shot of diesel on the blade. had to switch to 1-1/2 055 4 degree blades and then could only cut at a crawl. speed up too fast and the blade would dive or wave. dust was like baby powder. the coolant had to have a big mix of pine sol and water, way more than I usually use and it still didn't do the job right.
I got the job done, but it was a time consuming endeavor, have never cut pecan but I assume it is the same. if it is any worse I would not want to cut it

[barbender]

Was this Green Ash? I've sawn some of that and it gave me fits too. It's so dry, old timers said it was the only wood you could cut down and throw it right in the stove. That powdery sawdust was so bad I was thinking about getting gogles to keep it out of my eyes. Sound like the same stuff? :D I had Black Ash on the same job, that saws beautifully. What a contrast :

[Barney II]

When the sap gets really bad I will run some lacquer thinner in with some windshield washer fluid and some car wax that is also a cleaner. I put all this in a spray bottle and take all water away. just spray the mixture on the blade as it is turning when there is a small build up.  Yeah I know about the thinner being flammable and all that good stuff-- --haven't burned anything down or up and I keep the blade clean.  Use the thinner to take the sap off the truck too.  8)

[Jeff]

I am highly allergic to ash sawdust. I would start wheezing at the mill while in my sawbooth before I even knew an ash log was coming up as the debarking process would be enough to get me going. We had to have another sawyer cut any ash it was so bad. I don't reckon they miss me at all in regards to that as it was a problem with my allergy to it and the amount of ash that was coming into the mill because of the EAB.

[WoodenHead]

The powdery fine sawdust of ash is what got me wearing a mask.  I was not allergic thankfully, but I would hack as if I had been smoking.  I can't say I had too much trouble sawing it though (green or dry).  But it would bow terribly if I tried to quarter saw.  That first cut near the center could leave me with a three/four inch gap by the time the cut was done.

[tyb525]

White ash did ok for me, freshly cut.

[Larry]

Once even a little sap gets on the band the trouble starts.  I always drip diesel/bar oil and it saws easy with a WM 7.

[Chuck White]

I've always used the Wood-Mizer 1¼- 10° blades with no ill effects as long as I kept the water flowing.

[Peter Drouin]

It can be a pain sometimes, you should try to cut it 3/8 thick for a day  :D :D :D :D

[loggah]

White ash is even dry to cut with a circular saw, its one of the worst it will build up in the gullets when nothing else does.

[VT-Woodchuck]

Before I bought my LT15, I had a chainsaw mill and one of the first logs I cut was a dry/seasoned white ash. When it was done, I had ruined a bar and a chain, but I learned a lot. A fresh cut White Ash was okay with the 10 degree blades.

[Kcwoodbutcher]

When I cut ash and a few others that cause build up on the blade it is always on the side of the blade in contact with the wheel. To remove it I drop the engine rpms, open the lube up and then take a piece of broken sticker and rub a corner of it on the blade, scraping the residue off. I do this from the back of the blade. It works like a charm and I haven't had any problems with the blade grabbing the sticker from my hands.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I use water loaded up with Cascade gel like I was going to cut pine.  Lubemizer either full on or fastest pulse.  To tell whether it works can get some sap spots on the blade then run the blade see if it cleans it.