Some general questions on cutting dimensional lumber and really big logs.

[opticsguy]

First question is:
What size do you cut lumber to match standard dimensional lumber?  Same size or what kind of shrinkage to expect? (Doug Fir, Maple, Cottonwood, Alder, etc)

Second question:
When you find a really big log that does not fit on your saw, how to cut it?  do you cut a few inches off the "top" and rotate and do it again untill you the saw can actually fit?   Or?

I did find a "big downed tree in the woods, not really sure if it is worth the effort because in the end you simply end up with lumber, no matter the size of the tree before cutting.

Great advice and wisdom appreciated. 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

#1. How dry is your log? Lumber from a green log will shrink a whole more than lumber from a dry log.
#2. Yes, I've had to whittle a lot of logs to make them fit.

[opticsguy]

I found this tree today, looks like it fell about a year ago?  Of course it fell across a stream which makes access more difficult.  From what I could see, it appears to have died and than fallen. I cant identify the species but my quess is a Hemlock, the bark appears different from a doug-fir. The base looks to be about 30 - 35 inches across.  My saw accepts about 28" and that of course is for a perfectly round tree.  I wonder if a large tree is really worth the effort compared to several smaller trees that are easier to handle.   Also my chain saw has a 26" bar.  Not the best choice for a log of this size that is still off the ground.

I think i am really liking this hobby a lot.  Am i the only who is crazy?

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

  Judging from the size of the log and where its at.....I believe I would leave it as a bridge. You sure don't wanna get hurt unless you have the equipment to get it out.

[Ianab]

The question is, are you able to move it if you do saw it?

Cutting logs  2x the bar length is relatively simple with a bit of planning and even bigger if you get really cunning, so that's not a limitation and I've dropped and sawn trees up to 54" with the 28" bar on my saw.

But then I had an excavator nearby to haul the logs out of the hollow. Without that they would still be sitting there.

Ian

[Magicman]

Remember that rolling a log is far easier than dragging/skidding.

I have had to let many large Oaks, etc. lie in and across the creek and rot because I simply did not have access to the equipment to get them out.  :-\

[Brucer]

What size do you cut lumber to match standard dimensional lumber?  Same size or what kind of shrinkage to expect? (Doug Fir, Maple, Cottonwood, Alder, etc)

Douglas-Fir (that hasn't already begun to shrink) will shrink about 1/2" per foot parallel to the rings, and about 1/4" per foot  through the rings toward the centre. If the log hasn't got any deep cracks in it, then it hasn't begun to shrink. Those shrinkage numbers are for dry wood with a 10% moisture content, which is about what it goes down to outdoors in our region.

Keep in mind that "kiln dried" softwood lumber has only been dried down to 19% MC. It's only shrunk about half way to the 10% final MC.

I saw to what the customer asks for. If I'm asked to adjust for moisture content, I do.

[mad murdock]

Welcome to the forestry forum opticsguy. The answer to your sanity ? Is no you are not crazy, but you have terminal symptoms of a not so rare malady known as SIB simplex 1! ;D some relief can be had Temorarily, by regularly engaging in cutting wood, milling logs into boards now and again, and generally making sure you always have a pinch  of freshly cut sawdust in yer pocket, in yer hair or otherwise within close proximity, so you can take it "tween" yer fingers and smell that intoxicating odor at a whim.  we all got the illness in case you was wonderin.

[redbeard]

  The wind fall Doug fir logs will keep for years laying in the woods the sap wood will get punky but the heart is still good. The dead ones that fell will be much lighter you can  tell by cutting some firewood rounds off the ends. Hemlocks wont last very long laying on the ground I do like the tight grain ones they make some nice boards. Alder and maples are worth milling for the spalt again just saw of the ends and see how far gone they are.

  

  sometimes you have to cut a path to whittle the big ones down.

[colinofthewoods]

  I can't keep my hands off the big trees,  even though you end up wasting a lot of time and sweat. I still can't say no.

   However,  if it is infact not a douglas fir and is a hemlock or a balsam, I would probably leave it unless it has really tight grain,  then I would want to quarter saw it.   Buck it off the root and see what it looks like.

  I find up here the hemlock stays wet and heavy for quite a while, it doesn't really dry out, it just rots.

whatever you decide ,  have fun !  and at the least ,buck a few rounds off and see how it looks.   

[customsawyer]

I have a addiction to the big logs. The best advise I can give is the more of the big ones you do the better you get at it. ;D

[Magicman]

I either love to hate them or hate to love them.     They are always a pain in the butt for me, but I look forward to the next one.  The customer suggested "jump butting" the last swell butted Cypress that I sawed, but I said "no way, we'll get it".

[opticsguy]

Been out looking at trees and have discovered they often are much bigger than first appearance.   Been thinking about this big tree problem, seems like if it wont fit inside the frame of my TK it cant be cut.  This got me to thinking about the open framed Wood Mizer.  Seems like you could get a big log up there and start cutting off from the top and then rotating the log untill she fits.  Then again, the blade height would be the limiting factor??

So, now, needing to go look for more reasonably sized trees. 

[Ianab]

The cantilever head of the woodmizer does give you a little more "wriggle room" to whittle down a big log.

But the real answer for a portable mill to cut dimensioned boards from a big softwood log is a swing blade or twin-saw. A bog standard swingblade mill has no problems at all cutting 4 - 5 ft dia logs.

Ian

[bandmiller2]

If you don't worry about wear and tare on you and your sawrig have at the big ones,but only if you have the machinery to handle them.Myself I limit size to 30" on my bandmill. Frank C.

[FeltzE]

Big logs, ahhh patience, but it's nice to have a clean 20" cant left on the mill making wide boards. But then rip those close to the heart to keep them from naturally splitting (in hardwoods and poplar) Pine is more forgiving.

You mentioned in the original post about cutting to meet dimensional lumber... never cut green to match dimensional lumber. Green lumber shrinks as stated differently across the grain than it does with the grain thus making true finish grade impossible on a green cant.


eric

[Al_Smith]

  The wind fall Doug fir logs will keep for years laying in the woods the sap wood will get punky but the heart is still good.   

Very interesting .I wasn't aware of that .Our oaks are the same way .