Tapered siding

[starmac]

Fpr tapered or beveled siding, is there an industry standard on the sice of it width mainly?

I have searched, but most I find folks have just basically cut it what ever with they had logs to work with for their own projacts, or to match up with some existing sideing.

Is there even such a thing as an industry standard on it?

[Bruno of NH]

1/2 inch x 6 inch wide is the most used in NH

[wolf nemeth]

Several years  ago I bought  both  6 and 8"  wide poplar   sidihg.
BTW, are you aware that  Woodmizer sells  a gizmo  for cutting tsper?

[starmac]

I actually have the gizmo. lol  I have not used it yet, but it appears that you can choose the width.

[WLC]

Width will depend on the exposure you want.  6" boards for 4" exposure and 8" boards for 6" exposure.  With the jig, you can make the taper how you want it.  IIRC small end is 3/16 or 1/4 and the thick end is 5/8 or 3/4.  Been a long time since I put any lap siding on.

[Brucer]

In Canada the National Lumber Grades Authority (NLGA) shows several standard patterns for siding. The pattern for bevel siding with no notch along the bottom edge is #26. It shows finished widths of 5-1/2", 7-1/2", and 9-1/4". All three are 1/4" thick at the top edge and 25/32" at the bottom edge.

The diagram shows these being sawn from a board that is 1-1/8" finished thickness.

There is also a warning that individual manufacturers may use different dimensions, so basically anything goes.

The advantage of sticking to one standard is that you can supply additional material later on that will match.

I cut some 10" bevel siding several years ago that had to exactly match some that was installed 40 years earlier. I didn't have a jig so I used a pair of steel shims to tilt a cant. I sold it for $2.70 a linear foot and the customer didn't even blink.

[Bandmill Bandit]

I don't have a jig either but i have cut lap/bevel siding for 4" 6" 8" & 10" face. Add 2" to get the total width. I have a set of blocks I made out of birch to get a 7/8ths thick edge and a 3/8ths thin edge for each width. They work great.   

[starmac]

Just driving by buildings here that have it, most looks to be 8 in, and maybe even 10, but I have not stopped and got a close look. I have seen some older houses that were probably 6 in siding.

[Kbeitz]

When I built my cabin I took old bevel siding off a school that
was built back in the 1800's. the siding was 5" across and painted
white. I turned it inside out and reused it.



 

[robmelby]

 If you are using corner boards, you need to take in consideration the thickness of your corner boards. If your corners are 1 1/8'' thick and your siding is 3/4'' taper to 1/4'', you will only have an 1/8 reveal at the corner board. That may not be good enough to receive caulk or a strong enough shadow line. If you are mitering the corners then no worries.
The thicker the siding is, the more it will hide waves in a long wall. The waves are do to different crowns in the studs. If you have a long wall and put that 1/4'' concrete siding on it, you will see every stud. Go with 3/4'' to 1/4'' bevel and use 1 1/4'' corners is my thought. Good luck!

[Bandmill Bandit]

I have had a couple of people just used straight 5/8"X10" no taper as well with full 8/4 by 5" corner trim boards, window and door trim. It looks good.

the 4" and 6" stuff was for a couple of old country school house restorations.     

[Brucer]

I first ran a bandsaw mill (not mine) in 2004 and the owner was sawing 5/8" x 8" Western Red Cedar boards to be use as bevel siding on the local gas station/convenience store. They just lapped the boards, leaving a 6" exposure. It looked great when they finished the job, and 13 years (and one repainting) it still looks great.

It's an easy dimension to saw (even without setworks). Saw a cant to whatever width you want, then simply drop the saw 3/4" on each cut. We used to make the cant so the pith would be in the middle of a 1" board at the end. It didn't take long to memorize the pattern.

[wolf nemeth]

Hello ----how do you cut a uniform taper on logs by using blocks? Do they attach to the bed of the mill?  Or to  the cant?  How?  thanks for any advice

[fishfighter]

Hello ----how do you cut a uniform taper on logs by using blocks? Do they attach to the bed of the mill?  Or to  the cant?  How?  thanks for any advice

One just slides the blocks under the cant on the mill bed bunks. Make a past, then remove for your second cut. Repeat.

[John S]

How many wedges do you use?  It must get old pretty fast (putting them under the cant and/or removing them for each cut), if you have a lot of them to do.  I was looking at the WM SLR (shingle lapsider) at Marty Parson's last Friday and was impressed by the repeatability and speed for each alternating cut.  It also has a simple adjustment for the amount of taper.

[Bandmill Bandit]

The siding attachment is real nice to use. I had a chance to use on a few years back BUT I don't saw enough of the siding to justify owning one.

I use 2 blocks, 2 inches square and 3/8ths, 1/2, and 5/8ths thick. Use the 1/2 inch one the most.

And yes it get old quick but it works good.

[pineywoods]

2 small blocks, usually 1/2 inch. Not much problem but I have hydraulics to lift the cant.

[Planman1954]

Check this out:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58534.msg851690.html#msg851690

[Kbeitz]

I would make two of these. One for each end of the log. Just flip from one
side to the other and cut.



 

[Jim_Rogers]

I had to make some 5" pine bevel siding for a restoration project once. I cut a tall 5" wide cant about 10' long. I drew the slope on the end of the cant the customer wanted. Butt thickness and top thickness. The leaned the cant over till the profile matched the blade. I then measured the distance off the bed rail and made a tapered shim block that thickness.
I made only two one for each end bed rail.
As mentioned you tip it up put in the shim, make one cut. Release the clamp, take out the shim and make one cut. Dropping the same butt thickness each time.
You can make lots very easily and not spend over $1000 for a jig.
Jim Rogers

[Bandmill Bandit]

I would make two of these. One for each end of the log. Just flip from one
side to the other and cut.



 

Kbeitz, You should NEVER have posted this drawing! NOW I have to build it! I have already modified it though. THANKS all the same. may be i will cut more siding when I have it done.

[Kbeitz]

I would make two of these. One for each end of the log. Just flip from one
side to the other and cut.



 

Kbeitz, You should NEVER have posted this drawing! NOW I have to build it! I have already modified it though. THANKS all the same. may be i will cut more siding when I have it done.

Make the mounting plate with screw holes to hook the log fast.
Better yet make it to hold a pipe clamp with teeth in the clamp
pads to bit into the log.



 

[John S]

Are you sure that this jig should drop on both sides or just come or to level on the return?  I think that the drawing will produce a taper on both sides, like an isosceles triangle.

[Jim_Rogers]

Yes, it really only has to tilt one side. Then tilt back to level.

Jim Rogers

[Bandmill Bandit]

I did a little playing in the shop with scraps. Mine will have the pivot on the left side of the jig with a quick over center clamp mechanism similar to the LT10 log clamp on each end and one that will bolt to my log clamp so that the cant will sit on top of the hydraulic log clamp  and be secured by the manual clamp so I can simply raise and lower the log clamp to adjust for each cut. I will make 3 different stop block sizes for the right side for different sizes of siding. They will slide into place and be secured by a 1/4 turn spring loaded bolt. 

I will use 3/4 ready rod with a regular  long nut to attach the over center lamps to so the cant width can be adjust quickly. The rod will be mounted in the base plate that the cant will rest on. Total width will be 14 to 16 inch so I can handle up to a 12 inch cant. 

Since it is a work in progress i am sure there will be minor mods on the fly. Pics will appear when  the design getting to final form.