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The Outdoor Board / Re: Elk 2018

« Last post by DPatton on Today at 04:04:49 PM »
Keep hydrated you flatlander.
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Urban and Community Forestry / How to dry out a wet wooded lot?

« Last post by eharman on Today at 04:03:54 PM »
Hi all, we purchased a house last year on a partially wooded lot-- an area around say 150' square. After being in it a bunch over the last year (pulling masses of poison ivy and clearing brush, among other things), I've noticed it is very wet. There is a permanently damp, deep layer of leaf litter, and many of the trees show signs of fungus. There are also a bunch of dead trees that are so rotten you can push them over.

We love the woods, and would like to make sure it is healthy. The current plan is to continue clearing brush, get rid of all the dead trees, and possibly remove some of the leaf litter-- though I'm not sure how realistic that is, as it seems like I'd have to do it every year to be effective. The canopy cover is pretty dense, with some sun getting through but not a lot, so I was thinking I'd have an expert come in and tell me which live trees would be best to remove as well to thin it out. The majority of the trees are between 5"-12" diameter, with some outliers on either side.

Is this going to be enough to dry out our woods a bit? Anything else I should be thinking about? It's surrounded by other people's land, also at about the same level, so adding drainage isn't really an option afaik.

Thanks for any help.
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Thatís kind of what I thought you might be after.  I would think you could first cover the inside with black Tyvek to act as a dark curtain between the gaps when viewed from the outside.  Then add 2 inch thick foam sheets on the inside for the insulation.  The foam could be secured/sandwiched in place with horizontal strapping screwed into the horizontal timbers (how thick are they)?  Then finish the inside with vertical T&G, shiplap, or B&B attached to the strapping?  Kind of the opposite of how I insulated/finished my barn except I used cedar shingles.

The Barn Raising... in Timber Framing/Log construction


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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Filter dust without losing heat?

« Last post by Brad_bb on Today at 03:48:10 PM »
Thanks everyone for the responses so far...

Mike_belden, that is the one company I came across on youtube.  I'll have to call them and see what kind of advise they can give.  

ButchC, that unit doesn't look very big.  I would assuming you'd need a lot more filter area than fits in that cabinet for mill dust?

tmbrcruiser, I just checked out the Laguna collectors.  One of those like the 5hp might work for the mill, tablesaw, bandsaw, and maybe a little lunchbox planer.  The problem comes in with my beam planer and an industrial planer when I'm planing  beams or S2S a lift(stack) of lumber all at once.  Those small cans are too small capacity.  I'd fill that in 30 minutes and that's too short a time to have to empty it.

I need a big capacity for chips- at least a minimum of three 55 gallon cans I'd say.  I do not want to have to manually shack or knock a fine filter, automatic is needed.  
I'd like to be able to plane for  a 6 hour day with only needing to dump chips etc at the end of the day, not multiple times a day.  
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Pennsylvania Newbie

« Last post by GrampawGriz on Today at 03:28:09 PM »
Update: This business plan is giving me a headache. Lol.

For those of you who've done it, how did you conduct your market research, exactly? I have some general ideas, but require some solid specifics.

Aside from that, my focus right now is to use the level spot on the property as a place to park the mill (maybe), and definitely as a place to build at least one 750-1,000 BOARD FEET solar kiln, with the possibility of additional kilns in the future, solar or otherwise.

Tomorrow we do a transmission swap and get the business truck back on the road.

God bless,

Griz
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Insurance Inspection

« Last post by DR_Buck on Today at 03:21:36 PM »
I don't know what the outcome will be but the rep took photos of both my mills, log trailer, and kiln.   Then asked about employees which I have none and types of customers I service.

My policy covers my equipment and liability.
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Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR

« Last post by D L Bahler on Today at 03:19:04 PM »
lots of barns around me with ash floors. hay mows, drive floors, all ash. Bugs will find it eventually though. powder post beetles are fond of it. Wash it down with borax often, that'll keep the bugs and mold at bay
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Chainsaws / Re: 372 clone. Worked it hard, did it survive?

« Last post by weimedog on Today at 03:16:37 PM »
Don't have time for a video right now, but my best guess is "who knows?!". The impression I get is they run the full range of complete junk to decent runners with every step in between. Can't tell what you'll end up with, but you'll probably save a few bucks if you're willing to put in the time playing with them.
But you are here spending time online with opinions. One of the most interesting phenom's is all the expertise offered by folks who have no actual experience on the subject they offer advice. The purpose of the video's is to actually document the experience and through the video, a gazillion assessments and opinions will be formed, but at least those opinions will be formed through a little real time experience...:) Everyone will see something different and the more "experienced" ones will pick out details the rest of us hobbyists will miss...:) I learn a lot from my subscribers.
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Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR

« Last post by RAYGYVER on Today at 03:12:09 PM »
All, thanks for the comments. This is exactly why I put this thread together. I knew you guys would help evolve the project.

T&G would be easy enough on a table saw to create the tongue side, and a router down the groove side. That would solve the top plane issue. It wouldn't pull apart and cause cracks. 

I might be over thinking this whole thing. Just Tongue and Groove the boards, expansion joints at the walls and be done with it. 

I can't wait to get the mill going.

Now, material.....there is a lot of Ash around here....its hard, so I would think Ash would make a good floor board. Any objections?
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Firewood and Wood Heating / Re: Making my own firewood processor.

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 03:03:28 PM »
The trick is gonna be making the first split before the other wings engage.  I have no issue with oak on a welded up 5 way with 13hp honda and maybe 4" cylinder, unknown PSI.   Oak is fairly straight grained and easy to fracture.  The hickory crotches and especially that spiral grain of black gum are major problem.  Ive not experienced anything as bad as black gum.

That said i wouldnt make it a fixed 4 way or an adjustable trough.  A deep vee trough will always center if the cheeks are wide enough.  A vertically adjustable wedge head isnt that hard or complex.  It can be pin on, winch, lever, cable or hydraulic adjusted.  jmo.
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There will be no chinking. 

In the architecture that this is replicating, this portion of the building would be a hay mow. Hence the gaped timbers for ventillation. 

I have considered simply glazing the interior walls. If not whatever material covers the inside will likely be black on the side facing the exterior so that it is not noticeable.  

The desired effect is something like this: 



 

If I can't come up with a suitable solution, I'll just eliminate the infill and cover the exterior with b+b siding
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Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR

« Last post by Brian_Weekley on Today at 02:56:13 PM »
I agree that tongue and groove might be better than using fasteners.  The T&G would help keep the boards aligned.  I was also wondering if it would be possible to mill some kind of locking joint similar to Pergo-type floors?  Between the foam and wood, you might need some material to reduce friction to allow them to move easier with expansion/contraction?
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Health and Safety / Re: wrecked boat

« Last post by petefrom bearswamp on Today at 02:47:05 PM »
Thanks for the well wishes.
Chuck, no hunting for me until second week in Nov.
Heading to DC next week to meet friends for a weeks getaway.
He was a guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier in 1959 - 60.
The former guards have a reunion every two years.
It is a good time and we see a lot of the sights.
BTW the bull crap you see on the internet about the former tomb guards not being allowed to swear or drink is just that, crap as the cocktail hr before the formal banquet is full of some blue words and plenty of booze.
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Firewood and Wood Heating / Re: Making my own firewood processor.

« Last post by hedgerow on Today at 02:46:20 PM »
Not much Oak in my area and the little there our are old growth large trunk trees. Making the centering part of the splitting unit adjustable  would be a good idea. I would make your wedge hyd adjustable. I think you will find that four inch cylinder is going to be a little too small on a four way and Oak may be those smaller dia oak trees split easier than the few old growth I have processed over the years. I can't wait for your build to start and the pictures to follow. I got my firewood crew coming this afternoon and all day Saturday. I hope by Sunday the crops will be dry and we can get back to corn harvest.   
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Hi David,

So what would someone from the outside see?  Horizontal boards with gaps or will there be something like chinking in between the boards?  If not, I guess you would want some kind of material on the inside that you would see between the boards on the outside?
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Filter dust without losing heat?

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 02:44:46 PM »
I was a maintenance mechanic/welder at smith and wesson.  52 acre building, hundreds of torit dust collectors with mostly donaldson filters. Everything from smoke to lead to sawdust to paint fumes.  
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Chainsaws / Re: 372 clone. Worked it hard, did it survive?

« Last post by lxskllr on Today at 02:41:52 PM »
Don't have time for a video right now, but my best guess is "who knows?!". The impression I get is they run the full range of complete junk to decent runners with every step in between. Can't tell what you'll end up with, but you'll probably save a few bucks if you're willing to put in the time playing with them.
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Health and Safety / Re: wrecked boat

« Last post by Chuck White on Today at 02:36:00 PM »
Gee Pete, Opening day of "Rifle" deer season is tomorrow!

You need to get yourself in shape so you can at least sit on the back porch of DeGrasse Camp!

Get well soon Pete!  ;)
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Chainsaws / 372 clone. Worked it hard, did it survive?

« Last post by weimedog on Today at 02:25:54 PM »
Worked with one of those "Holtzfforma" G372 saws, a 365 Special Original Edition Patterned Copy from Farmertec. Bucked up a old dry maple with enough dust to suck ALL the oil it could pump onto the bar. But rather that pontificate about the theory, I just put the saw to work on a typical job here at the farm....figured I would run it until it stopped and talk about it then. So did it work or crash? What's your guess based on all the online expertise at everyone disposal? (About these saws from China ). Me the only thing I will say is I didn't and wouldn't buy one for myself, but the reason has more to do with an emotional reason than anything else, and won't expect anyone else to follow because of me. BUT have to simply report and document the experience, good, bad, and ugly..:) Have to say I had a little fun doing this task after the last few months!! It was SO nice to get back to work.


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Forestry and Logging / Re: After the sanity check!

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 02:22:52 PM »
How deep are your pockets?
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