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shngles?

Started by D Martin, June 05, 2005, 07:40:06 AM

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D Martin

Anyone ever cut shingles on a band mill? Ive got some short large dia white pine not length worthy of making boards. Its either use them or burn em in a camp fire. I need ideas on a jig.

scottr

There's a thread in the wanted forum with pictures of a fixture for making shingles . Scott

Gunny

I'm guessing you mean to mill out "shakes"?  I've run beaucoup through my old Lumbermate but just sliced them at 1/2".  They fit and look great on the gable-ends of the small barn and down on the workshop, too.  Since they lap so easily--in 24" lengths--I never saw any need to taper them.  I run them all in 8" widths which allows for them to be split in half for the starter-row seams to be properly rotated.  An easy task and one which allows for an awful lot of possibilities.  We're going to face an entire cottage with them later this season.  Good luck.

iain

Yip we cut loads all Red Larch or Oak / Chestnut
we use the WM attachment with some modifications



  iain

D Martin

Thanx guys thats just the sor of thing I was  looking for. I am Going to build me one of those.

Octoman

This method will definitely test your patience!!  In the pic you will see some 1/4" plywood propping up one end. Simply replace the spacer every other cut and drop the height accordingly.  i.e when the spacer is in drop down 1/8", when you remove the spacer drop down 3/8".  This worked for me and produces the taper.  It was time consuming and i've got to say i'm in no real hurry to do it again!!

However!  If you want to avoid the cost of the shingle attachment, this works!  Here are the results!

WM LT 15 - Fortune favours the Brave!

iain

Nice looking place you got there
where you sited?



iain

Octoman

Down in Somerset iain, by the way, that is some beautiful furniture you are making!
WM LT 15 - Fortune favours the Brave!

iain

Thank you
 
where abouts in zummrzet?


iain

D Martin

A sled that rocks back n forth for taper and elevates the block incrementaly ,keep the  saw stationary. Is that how wm's attachment works? not trying to re invent the wheel or anything, but make it somewhat productive  its a homejob band mill so I can't see buying one

iain

No wm's is a cam flipped by a lever, and does 6 at a time

i'm sure there are pics in the archives of it

if you cant find them or they aint there let me know,  i should be back sawin at the weekend and the shingle maker lives accross from the saw, so i'll get some close ups for you


iain

iain

There's pics of the WM shingle maker in my members gallery, just click the scrolly icon thingy below my pic on the left


iain

D Martin

the schrolly thingy took me to a personal message offline thingy but the camera icon took me to your gallery but i can't see anything that looks like a shingle attachment, of course iv'e never seen one so I dont know what to look for. how do you get six shingles a tim outa one blade or does it have a seperate saw setup?

Fla._Deadheader

 It's the orange colored thingy in Ians' Gallery.  ::) ;D ;D :D

  Try a search in Image Archives at the top of a reply page. 


  Uhhhhhhh, forget my last bit of advice. I just spent 10 minutes and could not locate a pic of a WM shingle-lap sider jig.  ::) ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

iain

Deader's right its the orange thing, in the clicky camera bit
i've piced the bits that matter  start, cams, clamping, some thing else, and another one or two, you chuck it on the saw bed bung some blocks in the clampy things slip the blade over them all to level up flip the flippy lever that works the cams nother cut collect the bits tighten the clampy things a bit more flip the lever saw shingles simplicity its self

iain

Furby

D Martin,
Here is a link to WM's Shingle and Lap Sider page on their site.


Link

UNCLEBUCK

Hey Gunny did you dry your boards before you cross cut them to the 24 " length? Also have you ever installed them green like straight off the mill . Isnt a shake considered a hand split ? Lookin good Octoman !
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

D Martin

Nice. Now I see how to you get six shingles. Something like that could probabaly fit even my humble home built rig. It dosent look too complicated to build if I it dont fit. I was thinking of having a moving carrige to feed the block and lock the bandsaw stationary but ,on the return the blade would probably kiss the end of the block o wood causing problems.

sawdust



In northern B.C. I saw a device that could saw shingles at an incredible rate. He had a bandsaw mounted stationary and a conveyor that passed under the blade. The conveyor had blocks mounted to the belt. The blocks served two functions, as a stop for the board it was pushing, and a lift for the leading edge of the board following. He would cut 2x? materiel into lengths and pile them above the conveyor belt. The conveyor would feed itself by taking the bottom block from the pile. He had Six people cutting blanks, keeping the hopper loaded and stacking shingles. Saw it six years ago it was forsale at the time. Given the price,,, you could build your own way cheaper. The market for pine shingles had just crashed here.
comforting the afflicted and afflicting the comfortable.

Gunny

UncleBuck:

From all the readings here, I'm sticking to what has worked for me for years--just sawing the buggers at 1/2" thick X 8" wide X 24" long.  To answer your question, sometimes I've stickered them for a few weeks in the warmer weather and sometimes I haven't.  Since they're so thin to begin with, I haven't noticed any (and these ones I use have been on the roof and gabled ends of 3 different building) twisting or checking or undesirable shrinkage.  The toolshed's roof has been on for almost 10 years with no sign of deterioration.   I'm just too old to be messing with all that flipping stuff when straight production works so darned well.  But "shaking" produces a real nice effect and I like it when building in wooded areas--it blends so well!

Good luck with whichever route you decide to take.

ohsoloco

Gunny, how much exposure do you leave on the 24 inchers  ???

Ironwood

Uncle Buck,

  There are at least two types, Sawn, the least durable. And then "RIVEN" or hand split, they are thicker usually and more durable and usually look better, as they show more of the character of the wood and have a bolder appearence from the ground. REID
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Gunny

osoloco:

I'd say there's around 12" exposure on each shingle though I tend to shift them up or down an inch or two as they cross each tier, just for the aesthetic effect. 

As far as endurance, I'm guessing the Hemlock will remain functional for a hundred years while the White Pine might only make it another 60 years or so. As for "looks", I guess that'll always remain in the eye of the beholder, but these simple ones are as pretty as any I've ever seen.

ohsoloco

I like the idea of not having to taper the shingles, Gunny.  When I made the white pine shingles for my smokehouse I crosscut dry boards into 16" lengths, ripped them to fit the throat on my bandsaw, and stood them up on their side and ripped them diagonally.  It took a lot of time, luckily it was only a small building. 

Wish I would've held onto those larch logs to use as shingles  :(

UNCLEBUCK

Well thanks for the shingle lesson everyone . I gonna make me a mess of them like Gunny so am I correct if I go ahead and install them green right off the sawmill or should I wait and let them dry? I need 42 square plus allowance for coverage . What do you all fasten them on with and can I put them right on top of the old asphalt shingles or is the some kind of sticker under each one?  Boy oh boy this is cool !
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

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