sawing SYP

[hunt22j]

I'm sure this has probably been covered before, but I have a question concerning sawing SYP. Until recently, my past experience sawing has been primarily with a CSM cutting hardwood, primarily red oak and maple. With the new LT 10 I've been trying out some new woods. I experimented today cutting some lap siding out of a sweet gum for the sole purpose of using it on my dog pen (which I must say it came out very nice).

In keeping with the dog house idea, I decided to cut some SYP for the framing materials. Out of the two logs that I sawed, neither came out particularly well. Both seemed to warp quiet a bit while I was cutting some 2x4's. I am a little familiar with the idea of cutting evenly around the log to counteract the stress of the cut, which is something I felt I did, but this seemed pretty bad. Is there something I am missing here? Both logs were cut down just prior to sawing, is this something that could have caused it? Should the logs be cut and then allowed to "season" somewhat before going to the mill?

[Solomon]

With SYP try cutting your boards from the heart wood.  Leave the pyth  (the center) for a 6x6 and slab off the sap wood.    I recomend taking the boards from the mill to you drying box as the board is cut.  Hard to do if you're working alone I know.   I try to quarter saw it if it's feasable, the boards seem to stay flat,  they will often crook so mill them an inch wider, even two inches wider for longer boards especially 2x12 floor joists and long rafter matieral.   As I said with quarter sawing the board tends to remain flat and you can cut the crook out
on the edger or resaw the crook out on your mill like I do.
  Don't let the lumber just lay in a pile even just over night,  SYP will turn green and moldy on you in a heart beat.

[5quarter]

Welcome Hunt22...I've never cut SYP, but I can tell you, softwood requires a different approach than hardwood. Pine cuts better with more set in the teeth. also, pitch and sawdust build up on the blade quickly, so keep your blade shiny clean at all times. also, good logs = good lumber. logs with sweep, off center pith and/or heavy knots tend to be trouble. with a lot of pine, I will make 4x12s and stand them out back of my shop. Then as I need lumber, I will clean up the cant and saw 2x4, 2x6, 2x12 or whatever I need. If I get a bad one, I'll break it down for 4x4 blocking (can never have too much blocking).  ;)

[Magicman]

the great majority of my sawing is SYP framing lumber.  There are an occasional log that will give you trouble, but that is rare.  The face openings are critical to prevent internal stress from doing bad things.

I am sorta in a rush this morning with logs waiting and I am sure that by this evening others will respond.  Briefly, be sure to always "saw through" from either the hump or horn side of the log.


 
As shown above, never split the pith. 

[dboyt]

MM, nice sawing pattern.  Looks like it really cuts down on stopping to move boards.  Thanks for the photo.

[JB Griffin]

I'm showing my ignorance here, but what do you mean by horn or hump magicman.

[thecfarm]

Go up to search,type in hump,this board,which is the sawmill board,and that will give you the answer.  ;D

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

If a log has a slight bend in it or any bend as a matter of fact......position it on the mill with the hump on top or the horns sticking up.
I usually saw the horns off first.  ;D

The horns are each end of the log that will be the highest point of that side.

Note: When you do saw the hump side.....it will give you some very nice OVAL shaped wood for sign making, taxidermy or a display board.

[Magicman]

Everyone has their own way of setting up logs and opening the faces.  My preferred way is to lay the log on it's "side" with the horns toward the loader as shown in the below picture.  I then level the center of the log above the sawmill bed and open the first face.


 
The first face is opened and the log is then turned 90° as shown below.


 
The previously opened first face is now square against the side supports, and I level the log.  The second face opening will remove the horns which are now sticking up.  I saw down to reach my cant target, rotate the log another 90°, open the third face and saw down to my cant target.  The final 90° turn will put the hump side of the log up and I now make my final face opening and saw through.

Occasionally because of it's shape, etc. a log will have to be turned 180° for the second face opening.  When that happens, I just let the log have it's way, but the final saw through is still from either the hump or horn side.

Lumber sawn from "sweepy" logs such as this will tend to bow but not crook.  Bowed lumber will usually sticker dry straight, but lumber with crook (crown) is usually frowned upon by my customers.

One note;  Almost every log has a bit of sweep so I always turn it and look for it.  My horns are always turned toward the loader and get trimmed off on the second face opening.  If they are turned toward the side supports, they very easily will interfere with the saw head as the first face is opened.

[JB Griffin]

Thanks magic that makes perfect sense now just never heard a crooked log referred to as having horns and a hump
;D