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« Last post by rjwoelk on Today at 12:36:30 AM »
When mine slips I just use a little belt dressing on it. its kind of sticky
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« Last post by Percy on Today at 12:35:37 AM »
The system I seen that worked well with an edger was a bunch of what looked like 1/2 inch by 1 inch by 15 inches long bars at about a 55 degree angle. These bars were spaced about a half inch apart. (Imagine your anti kickback fingers with every second finger missing)The suction box was right behind these slats/bars/fingers. The chunks would slide down the 55 degree slope into a bin below the slats and the sawdust would get sucked thru the spaces between the slats. Worked slick.
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« Last post by Brucer on Today at 12:13:12 AM »
Thanks for the reminder, doctorb.
I should have mentioned that in my brother's case, the problem was the specific antibiotic, not antibiotics in general. My brother is seriously allergic to the penicillin family and will often be prescribed other antibiotics where a "--cillin" would normally do the job.
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« Last post by Darrel on Yesterday at 11:52:23 PM »
It's so dry here. ODF says the woods, both public and private are closed down. Can't run gas powered saws either chain saw or sawmill. Fire danger is extreme. It rained this morning, felt good but the dust still billowed up behind the car while the rain was falling and then the sun came out and it was still hot, smokey and dusty. But more rain will come one day and the dust will settle, and the fires will go out, it always does.
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« Last post by Mt406 on Yesterday at 11:47:14 PM »
I have a D&L if you would like to talk about them PM with your phone number I will call tomorrow. I would PM you I am on my phone keyboard is to small 🙂
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Eppdso,
Hey! Welcome!
So, everyone commenting here had great thoughts, but I figured I would give my $.02 cents even if it is just repeating some of the earlier comments. I cut firewood on the side for a business and have always loved to use dead standing timber. It's definitely a hit or miss thing though. I have found that if you get them too early they are still relatively green and you need to split and season them. On the other hand if you get them too late you run into one of two problems. The first being that they may be too old and just have no real substance left to them. Or the second problem is that they become water logged and become garbage. So, like a couple people mentioned, cut a couple down and see how they look and go from there. BUT also be very careful. Cutting trees down is honestly dangerous enough, but when you factor in dead trees you have to be on your toes. It might sound silly, but I always wear a hard hat when cutting dead trees (should really wear it all the time) due to their tendency to break up top.
Honestly, it's just one of those things you have to go for and do. See what happens, you know? I recently cut down a Red oak that had been dead for 3 years. This beast had barely any bark left on it and had to come down. When we split it the other day the core was still incredibly wet. Like, my leather gloves were soaked from handling the wood. So, you never know what you're gonna get.
The best of luck to you. Keep us posted!
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My edger has an option for a dust collector. It’s a long pipe mounted to the lower sawdust sump, and when hooked up to my blower, removes most of the fine sawdust. However, the big splinters, edging strips, wooden spikes remain in the sump and eventually create a beaver dam of debris, which clog up the sawdust extraction and I have to periodically clean everything out by hand, a little too frequently. If any get into the dust collector hose, they jam up also. After talking to a few others with different make and model edgers, this seems to be a common problem, and most just don’t use a dust collector at all, and let the sawdust and edging spikes fall to the floor where they manually sweep and shovel them up. I like using the dust collector because it removes most of the very fine, respireable dust I don’t want to breath, I just want it to get more and clog less. Has anybody got a solution to this?
My Staight Line Rip Saw (SLR) solves this by having a downward facing heavy debris exit chute (like a coal chute) coming out of the bottom of the machine, with the dust collector mounted to the top of the machine. Sawdust goes up, sticks go down. Never clogs. Has anybody mounted a suction hose to the top of an edger?
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Good evening everyone,
I feel like i'm always on here asking questions, but i'm man enough to admit that when it comes to the lumber market I'm still learning my way. So, I appreciate everyone taking time out and answering my questions.
So, a few posts ago I had mentioned how I met a farmer with some Beech lumber. I ended up not going with the Beech because even though it was dirt cheap I couldn't find anyone that was interested in the lumber. The sheer amount he had I could never use myself. I ended up getting some nice soft maple and cherry. Anyways, this same farmer (lets call him farmer A) just called me up this evening and asked me if I was interested in buying some D or better Pine. Apparently a good friend of his (farmer B) had some cut recently and his project fell through and would like to unload it.
Well, here's where I would like some advice. I am going to look at it tomorrow afternoon, but am at a loss. What's a fair price for this lumber? I just can't find much information on it by me. Farmer A wasn't sure of the specifics, but said it's "D or better, kiln dried, S2S, 5/4 x random widths x 8' - 14' long." I have looked at the internet and tried to find prices, but the only price I found was in Ohio and that was around $5.00 per board foot. Does this sound about right? Also, what are the uses for this specific lumber? The internet just said "furniture and trim". Ideally, depending on the amount this person has I would like to keep some, but sell the rest.
Someone on here once mentioned a monthly hardwood journal. Would this journal have a lot of this specific information i'm asking? I remember it was around $300/subscription. Honestly, if it would help give me an idea for price and use of the lumber its worth the price.
Anyways, thanks for listening. I will keep everyone posted. Thanks for the Advice.
Solar
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« Last post by LeeB on Yesterday at 11:15:13 PM »
I haven't mailed my coupon off yet. I put it in my wallet at the Pig Roast and it's still there gathering dust. Will have to wait until I get back home now. Wonder if I can scan it and email it to them?
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« Last post by barbender on Yesterday at 11:13:20 PM »
Also true, most sawyers, wait- no other sawyers are the Magicman!!😊
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« Last post by JB Griffin on Yesterday at 11:11:50 PM »
Mike, my late dad, a veteran tractor mechanic of 40+ year preferred oven cleaner to anything else for heavy duty degreasing except brake parts.
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« Last post by barbender on Yesterday at 11:09:40 PM »
When I worked for a local asphalt company, the shop guys built a rip rap sizer one winter. They used a couple rollers that came out of the local paper mill, I haven't seen it in years but I'm thinking they were at least 40' long. Anyhow, they were set up lengthwise to each other, nearly rubbing together at the close end and about 2' apart at the far end. They were powered so they turned up from the center, so the material would be lifted and it would move along until it got far enough down the line to fall through. My explanation is probably as clear as mud, but it was simple and worked well. Barge, I realize you're not looking to fab something, someone mentioned a custom sizing machine and it made me remember this. Sorry to sidetrack things😊
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« Last post by Don P on Yesterday at 11:03:40 PM »
Leave the sill several inches above finish grade. Run the chicken wire to grade and use landscape staples to pin it down. If the ground moves it can flex. I've also seen people rip a V point on the bottom edge of a skirt board that extends below framing down to ground in the hopes that it would split the heave rather than lifting. Just a thought, if something like that was relatively lightly attached to the face of a raised sill with enough nails or screws to keep it in place but few enough that they would shear before moving the structure.
For a habitable building you would drill into the bedrock and epoxy rebar that extends up into the pier... but this is a chicken house.
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I have open T slots, heating is never a problem. It’s nice to have a clean, metal floor for periodic cleaning and water pooling. Most of the heat is generated by the compressor during the drying cycle, so is basically free, and mine has to spend a lot of time just power venting, anyway, because it hits max temps during the cycle.
During a sterilization cycle in the winter, however, air leaks are killers.
The bigger leaks are around the door seals, the built in screened vent, and especially the louvered kiln vents can be very significant, even when they are “closed”. They are not airtight.
Certainly find and foam all of the refrigerator pass thoughts and access conduits. Seal the electrical pass through as well as the drip tube. Put a “P trap” in the drip tube to prevent airflow. Reseal the wall to ceiling joints. I’ve gone out in the cold mornings and seen vapor steaming from the vents even when they were closed. The door seals in mine were replaced and work great. During the winter, I put duct tape over the vents during sterilization to seal things up. Remember that the kiln system has a low pressure and high pressure side so will aggressively want to suck in and expel outside air. That’s why small holes are big leaks.
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« Last post by nativewolf on Yesterday at 10:53:42 PM »
With the CONSTANT rain and humidity here, I think the air-dry piles are INCREASING in MC! 
some of our logs were literally floating...so maybe they were increasing in moisture. Our saw mill site was so wet the tables fell as the leg support blocks sunk into the mud and mud was flowing into the site. Sigh..wet wet.
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« Last post by Brad_bb on Yesterday at 10:50:00 PM »
I just got my 2x8 Ash T&G back for a barn (stalls and walls). I'm going to try Shellguard from Permachink. It's a borate that is in an alcohol solution to help it penetrate the wood better. Very low toxicity to animals and people. Not all that cheap, but we'll see how much coverage we really get. I used their stain and clear on another project and the stain went way further than what they said.
I'm a bit less concerned about Ash that will be inside a house in a conditioned space. Should be far less prone to PPB there. But it wouldn't hurt to have the Shellguard.
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« Last post by Magicman on Yesterday at 10:47:06 PM »
John Cameron Swayze would be impressed. 
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Good advice for sure, but another way to look at it is like removing a bandage, it's always more painful to do the slow pick and pull, just get it over with and order an LT Super 70 Wide. 
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« Last post by Don P on Yesterday at 10:46:07 PM »
Once upon a time there was a well worn fiddle up for auction. It looked so sad the auctioneer couldn't draw a bid. A tired old man shuffled up to the front and placed it under his chin. It sang over the awed crowd. Having been touched by the hand of a master it showed all that it had. Then the auction commenced.
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I filled mine with washed stone, the wood chucks simply moved the stone out of their way... Oh well, they are neat to watch.
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