Tongue and groove

[dean herring]

I'm looking into making some tongue and groove and need some information on a good machine to do this.
Got a lot of red oak and blue pine.

[Southside]

How much is a lot? You can do it with a shaper, or go full on with a moulder. What is your budget? If this is a one time thing would it make more sense to pay someone to do it for you? 

[Tin Horse]

A moulder or shaper is definitely better. If it's a limited amount and on a budget a router works well. I've set up two in tables with 1/2" shank matching bits. Once the lumber is prepped it goes pretty fast. Not something you'd want to do a lot of but ok for small projects. I keep sample pcs for faster set up. A dedicated moulder is on my wish list.

[Kbeitz]

The best machine that I seen for that job was home made.

[Larry]

A table saw with a dado blade can work well. 

[starmac]

I don't know how much you have to do, but I am pretty sure there was pictures of Magic Man using a router for it on his cabin addition thread. It looked fairly simple and inexpensive too.

[terrifictimbersllc]

What are you wanting to tongue and groove?

[Planman1954]

The best machine that I seen for that job was home made.

Ok...and that was??

[hackberry jake]

I'd use a table saw before I'd use a router if you have a lot. It just goes faster with more horsepower.  As long as you have accurate stock and a nice jig, you'll get good results. I've tongue and grooved miles of flooring on a shaper.

[curved-wood]

The end use is quite important. A soft wood ''V'' joint doesn't need as much precision. If you use a table with a cutter insert, the board has to be fairly  straight ; a pass on the jointer helps. A shaper or a router mount on a table with a bearing and a good guide is Ok. Hardwood flooring needs more precision unless you are welling to tolerate fine cracks on the finish floor.  Here are my steps for hardwood flooring: -1) edge my kiln dry wood on the bandsaw mill to get one very straight edge  (the other edge is not important because the 4 face planer will shave it out )  -2) get throught a 4 face planer for sizing all the inequality . It is set 1/8'' bigger than the finish product -3) a second pass on another 4 face planer for the finish product. I found difficult to do nice flooring in one pass in my old 4 face planer. In the second pass , since the wood is fairly consitent in dimension,  the presures could be set more tight and  the wood is running without resistance.  A lot of steps but a great value increase in the price for a low grade wood which I have no market for.   
If it is for ''V'' joint soft wood I will do only one pass and jump also the edging on the mill. The wood has to be fairly consistant in dimension and well sawed.