Misc. questions

[Gregor]

I just purchased an Oscar 28. I have been cutting some black cherry. I seem to be going through blades. Any blade suggestions? Also, I have not found any information on blade lubrication, Any suggestions on that?
Thanks

[Brad_S.]

Welcome to the Forum!

If you do a search on blade lube, you will find there are two camps: those who use water with or without detergent additives and those who use either diesel or kero, sometimes with bar oil added. I'm in the latter camp. Discussions on which is better can get boisterous. :D

I'll let a Hud-son owner give you blade advice.

[tcsmpsi]

Any more information about your going through blades?  They dulling?, breaking? bending?.  How much wood you cutting?  Size?  Clean?  Dirty? 

I'm only on my second bandsaw (for milling) blade, so I probably don't have a lot of answers, but, I've never been short on questions.   ;D

I run a mill somewhat similar to your Oscar and have been cutting mostly SYP, with just a little oak to see difference in hard/soft woods. 

I've cut around 1200 bf of 2X material, lots of stickers, some 4x and a little 1x material into my second blade.

[Rancher]

I've had my Oscar36 for more than two years and have good luck with the WM blades. I cut mostly pine. For lube this time of I use water and windshield washer fluid in the winter.

[Gregor]

I was told that water and dish soap, which I have been using, will rust bearings etc. I have only cut 5 or 6 black cherry about 14" diameter. The bark on the first few was dirty. I quickly went through one blade. It dulled. After that I hosed down the logs before cutting, still wore out a second blade. I will get better as I cut some more I hope. I will try tightening the blade. reading through previous posts has already given me some insight.

[tcsmpsi]

Water, with or without dishsoap, will contribute to the rusting process.  Which, I am sure leads many to use the diesel/kerosene/oil.  My bandwheels have tires, so it seems the petroleum base lube would not be the best choice.  Some, use no lube at all (don't know if you've gotten that far in your search or not).  Diesel and/or kerosene are pretty good degreasers, as is dish soap. 

What I do, is run water sometimes.  I don't run lube at all if I can't see that it is beneficial.  If I notice I am starting to get buildup on blade/guides, I'll apply water.  As far as bearings go and surfaces go, I keep a coat of grease on and plenty in bearings and surrounding shafts, fittings, etc.

What I'm looking at/into doing is a phosphoric acid solution for my water and a bit higher quality marine grease in the bearings.  I do know that a prolonged, submersed application of strong phosphoric acid solution will remove the temper from spring steel.
More apt, that I would most likely use an occassional solution to help combat 'rust' (iron oxide).  The solution turns iron oxide into a harder iron phosphate, which is inert.

My thinking is, with normal use and 'regular water' should offset any detrimental qualities the solution might create in mill components (my only real concern would be blade temper).  Another reason in my considering the solution, is that my lube tank is steel and its inside is not accessible to regular maintenance.

These are just in the thought process and the moment.  The marine grease, I will probably try out on the mill.   Though I have used the solution in many tool/equipment applications, I will probably experiment a bit on more specific mill application (blades/bearings) before any implmentation.

Oh...and certainly, if anyone has any input, it is always welcome.

I am currently using Sterling blades.  I am pleased with all aspects of their operation, as well as speaking with one of their representatives (Diamond Saw Works) at length, exhibiting a natural enthusiasim and assurances of willingness of working one on one with any special/problem cutting (set, etc.).

 

[coldnorth]

Gregor
welcome to the hud-son camp!
I have an Oscar 30.  I have cut lots of cherry. I usually figure about 400 bd ft before switching blades.  I have  a local that does a good job sharpening and have had very little trouble.  I use water and soap mix.

One thing that happens on mine is the belt occasionally needs to be tightened to keep blade speed up.  SOmetimes slippage shows up.

Hud-son recommends NO! petroleum products due to the poly tires on the wheels.  I have found soap and water work well.  I don't do much sawing in cold weather, usually.  If I saw I use water and windshield washer fluid.

If you aren't getting  a few hundred feet between sharpening, something is wrong.


Oh yeah, I use mostly Woodmizer doublehard blades, but have used some Lenox woodmaster's.  They work good but seem to require more HP and perhaps don't last quite as long.  I think they work better on Spruce, because they are a bit more ridgid then the woodmizers.

keep us informed of progress.

Lamar
Coldnorth

[PineNut]

I have a Cooks Saw MP-32 with all steel wheels and was getting about 800 to 1000 bf sawing pine. Then when sawing oak, only got about 300 bf on the blade. I have been using diesel when needed. Some logs I saw dry and others need the lub. Just use it when I need it.

I have not sharpened any blades yet but have acquired a used Woodmizer sharpener and about to begin the learning curve.

[UNCLEBUCK]

Where does all this lube end up going ? Does it get on the boards? Does it fall to the ground? 

[IL Bull]

Where does all this lube end up going ? Does it get on the boards? Does it fall to the ground? 

Mixes in with the saw dust.

[thecfarm]

I only use a very slow drip of half diesel and half bar and chain oil.Goes a long ways.Only a drip every couple seconds.I can tell when it needs more,it gets loud,or when I forget to turn it on.I mostly saw white pine and hemlock.I suppose it gets on the boards,but I don't see it..Can't be much.

[Warren]

Gregor,

Another thing you might want to check.  Make certain nothing on the mill is coming in contact with the blade and taking the set out of the blade.  The first time I sawed hickory, I went thu blades way faster than oak.  After the third blade, I noticed that part of the safety bar on my WM LT15 had been bent up and was rubbing against the bottom of the blade.  Apparently I bumped it loading the log. Bent it back down 1/4" and no more problem.

Just an idea....

Warren