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Any Buick Mechanic's ?

Started by bama20a, July 28, 2015, 12:16:33 PM

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bama20a

Haven't been on here in awhile,But have been reading,Driving over the road is tough.
I've got a problem (wife does) ;D We have a Buick 2002, 3.8, Car starts good & run's fine,But after about 15-20 miles it will go to skipping then goes dead. Will not start back up until you let it sit for at least 2-3 hours.
We have had it put on 4 diff- computors at diff garage's. Nothing is showing on the code.
I know there is some smart mechanic's on here,& I'm about at the end of my rope with this one.
Has anyone ever had this problem? :-\
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

North River Energy

No idea on a Buick, per se, but that sounds a bit like a failing ignition.  As the 'module' warms up, resistance in the circuit increases to the point of 'failure'.

That kind of thing may not show as a code.

I'd check for spark somehow after it shuts down, and work forward from there.

bama20a

Thanks for the reply. I did replace the coil pack on it.Is that what you are referring about?
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

North River Energy

Most of my experience is/was with European cars and Bosch systems, so I'm just guessing here.

Typically there would be a component that would provide/interpret a timed pulse as the engine turned, and use that pulse to produce spark from the ignition coil itself.

Do you have one coil pack with leads for each plug, or a number of small coil packs,each dedicated to it's own cylinder?

Either way, the spark is probably timed by a flywheel and/or cam sensor.  These can be affected by heat as well, though failure will usually store a code.

Some Hondas had relay problems, whereby if you parked the car in hot weather, the relays wouldn't close, and the car wouldn't start.  If you left the driver's side window open about an inch for venting, no problem.

Can you recreate the problem by idling in the driveway until everything gets hot, or do you actually need to drive?  If yes, run it to the point of failure and 'look for a pulse', so to speak.

bama20a

It's got 3 coils on it. Each one feeds 2 cyl,each.I did change the crankshaft pos,sensor several months back,But it had a complete diff- problem then.
The last time it quit on her was at a garage,I had him to check the fuel pressure & it was fine.He said he drove it several miles & then parked it in front of his shop,& let it idle around 20-30 mins & it never cut off.
She drove it home about 5 miles,Now she is afraid to go off in it.
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

stoverguy

I have one of these. I'm currently on my third "ignition control module" The first two times I went through a Dealer, the most recent time I just expected it was the same and changed it to save the dealer cost. Pretty simple fix, the three coils sit on top of the module. You unscrew the coils and it is a flat aluminum plate under them about 3/8" thick has a plug in at one end. Held down by the coils. Electronic part with nothing to fix. They run about $150 for the aftermarket, I.E. made in mexico but a lot less then the $350 the dealer wants. If it's this part, and I expect it is, takes about 10 minutes to change and the vehicle will run perfect right off. Look up Buick ignition control module if you want to see what it looks like.

bama20a

Thank you Stoverguy: But I changed that to when I replaced the coils. :'(
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

North River Energy

When you changed the module, was it name brand, highest quality, or was it some kind of 'value line' option?

Had an issue with the second-tier Dodge ignition modules from NAPA a few years back. Failed within 1000 miles.  Replaced with the higher priced 'Echlin' product and have not had a problem since. 
Some 'new' parts are 'worn-out' before the box is opened...
Point being, even when you replace a part, you can't assume you've ruled out that part of the system.

bama20a

The module alone with the coils came off of another car,The car was running when I pulled it off.
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

North River Energy

The car was running as in 'getting about town no issues', or 'ran when parked'?

When the car warms up to the point of failure, does it surge and/or backfire?

Another heat-related possibility is the head temp/NTC2 sensor.  If the resistance changes gradually past 'warm engine' and all the way to 'full lean', then it probably won't set a code, but the injection rate will be too lean to run and/or restart.

When the shop checked the fuel pressure, did they verify that the pump was audibly running, or did they simply crack a test port and get a face full of gas from residual pressure in the line?

ScottAR

Get the module tested out.  A good parts store should be able to test it if they have the right connector. 
Run the test 3 times but not more than 3 times at least for our machine at work. I have seen them pass the first two times but fail the last as heat builds up inside exactly like it would running on the car. 

Not more than 3 times as you can test them to death.   They get too hot and die. 
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

bama20a

The module came off a car that was running when parked,
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

jcbrotz

Are you sure its not just vapor locked? I have heard other GM's dong that about the same symptoms.
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

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